I would paint the floor for summer use and in the winter use horse trailer mats to protect the painted finish..the mats will cost a couple hundred dollars but will last forever and you can put them on the garage floor for sled storage.

 

Good idea. How big are those horse trailer mats? How would I keep them from moving around?

 

Funny coincidence, but I'm ordering a ProLine also, and also had the same concerns in regards to the flooring. One other option, that was used on my last trailer, is treating the floor with Thompson's Water Seal. I think that is what was used, I personally didn't do it, but it definitely helped. It WAS a little slippery initially, but after a season, it was "goldilocks", just right.

 

I just picked up a 7 x 18 Proline about a month ago (it took 17 weeks to build it). They are right, the only traction aids you will need is on the ramps. I was a little nervous as well. The only problem you will have if you put horse mats down is when you are loading the sleds and you have to slide them from one side of the trailer to the other is you will have to lift them over the mats. They slide real easy on the floor. I put about 1500 miles on it so far and I like it so far. I have a Blizzard trailer as well, this one is built so much better.

 

They move better than you think on the mats. You don't have to pick it up, more unweight it like you do anyways. (assuming you line the entire floor)

 

Those horse mats are very heavy. To cover the floor of a 7x16 trailer you will be adding over 400lbs of weight to the floor.

 

Get it sprayed with box liner spray. Works awesome. I had my last trailer done. Sleds in and out every weekend for about 13 years, studs and carbides. Held up excellent, just don't spin the track like crazy. The only spot that started to lift was the leading edge of the floor from track spin. I should have installed a thin aluminum angle. My current trailer has 3/8 OSB on the floor, works the same just not nearly as fancy.

 

If you insulate the floor from underneath, it will trap moisture.

 

In my trailer I put in the ski slides and traction mat. I the cut 1/4” plywood to infill the areas not protected to create a flat floor. When sled or anything else is out and I want to camp, I unroll a nice rug. Hides the slides, mat, and wood and feels good with bare feet.

If serious about camping, I would install a max air rv ceiling vent fan. Otherwise you will cook in that thing when camping. They make a nice hood for it that has withstood Wisconsin winters. It can also be used to exhaust moist condensation laden air.

 

If serious about camping, I would install a max air rv ceiling vent fan. Otherwise you will cook in that thing when camping. They make a nice hood for it that has withstood Wisconsin winters. It can also be used to exhaust moist condensation laden air.

Up until recently, I would camp in my black, uninsulated Triton TC167 and when I would get back from riding dirt bikes all day, it was hot in there. But opening the roof vent and door cooled it off in reasonable time for bed.

This new trailer will have a screen door, screen window, roof vent with an RV hood, side vents, full insulation, and electric, so it should be a lot cooler without air conditioning. Worse case, I can always add a cheap room air conditioner if needed.

 

I just ordered the multi-sport version of the IS716. I've been using ski-skins on my skis, and none of the my sleds are studded. So I plan to leave the floor and ramp bare.

 

I had Arma Liner sprayed in mine. (truck bed liner). Waterproofs the top surface. leave the bottom alone.

 

I'm about finished up with my 8.5' x 28" Legend flooring. Just need to install the transition plates that are being bent. I went with the Swisstrax tiles after coating with deck coating. It's going be a dual use trailer between sleds and SxS's so I will be adding the Caliber products to the ramps.

 

Looks sharp!!!


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We used my dads old enclosed for camping. In the winter for snowmobiling. He insulated the sides and the roof but not under the trailer.

For the floor he did exactly what endomatic said. He had a foam under carpet and carpet he would lay out. It insulated and felt nice on your feet.

I highly recommend insulating the roof too. First trip camping he didnt and the condensation build up from the metal roof caused alot of dripping. So if you plan to camp in it when it will be colder out and you need to use heat, do the roof.

 

Floors are the second highest wear item in the trailer after tires.
They can be protected or replaced. Keep in mind that snow trailers also deal with a lot of water if you use the trailer. Flooring protection that traps snow and ice also traps water.
There have been quite a few good suggestions. A combination of ideas might be your best long term answer. Protect the existing floor from snow, ice, and water. I'd coat the floor and ramps with your finish and sand combo. Then use whatever you decide to protect from carbides and studs. The claims about studs and carbides not digging in are hooey. Live by those claims and you will be pissed. The wood also becomes softer when it gets wet.

The idea used by endomatic is pretty slick.
I do like horse mats except for the weight and water/moisture trapping. I've moved a lot of those things. They are heavy and moisture does not go through them. It will remain wet under the mat until the floor moisture dissipates through the wood. You can increase longevity by removing them after each winter season.
The grid protection systems look cool as heck. You would be surprised how much water/snow/ice can accumulate if you use the trailer without melting and dry down between trips. That all adds up to weight you haul and moisture sitting on the wood.

I've used 1/4-3/8 exterior plywood with one A side on the past few trailers. I cover the whole floor and replace sections if they wear through. On the front load trailers the floor wears from the inside carbide at the front bend? ( I know, it doesn't make sense.) I see consistent stud wear right down the middle and where floor meets the ramps.
The full plywood layer isn't the prettiest solution, but it's a wear item. The floor underneath sure looks good.

Insulation would be best on ceiling and walls. It will give you the most bang for your buck without the big moisture trapping issues.

 

I'm installing mateflex flooring right now. It's pretty nice stuff. I don't have time on it yet. But I will as soon as it's done

 

Here is a picture of mateflex

 

I picked up a car hauler built in NC that was bought and used for a move to Ontario. Regular plywood floors, and I wanted to protect them in a cost efficient way so I chose gloss white oil paint and did the walls, floors and ramp. Traction sand added to ramp worked great last winter, but I need to do a fresh coat of paint on the floors and sand them before the coming season, as they were absolutely treacherous to navigate when there was "dry" snow on them.
Other suggestion....keep a broom mounted in the trailer.

 

Well here it is complete. D rings every 2 feet. The gray is the mateflex floor installed

 

The gray is the mateflex floor installed

I like it, but aren't you concerned about the mateflex "cells" trapping and holding water?

 

I finally finished my floor, coated it with deck coating, mounted E Track, Swisstrax floor tiles and diamond plate thresholds. Also added 20' of LED shop lights down each side on separate switches for each side.

 

Looks good


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For the interior floor, considering your preference for a smooth and clutter-free space in the summer, epoxy coating sounds like a solid option. It not only provides a sleek finish but also makes cleaning a breeze. You might want to explore different types of epoxy that offer added grip without needing ski guides or traction bars on the flat trailer floor.

Regarding the underside insulation with expanding spray foam, while it can improve insulation, moisture trapping is a valid concern. Look into breathable insulation materials or methods to prevent any potential issues.

I recently came across some interesting info on durawall.com.sg. It's about SPC Flooring that might give you more insights into durable flooring options suitable for trailers like yours.