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Removing electric start?

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#24 ·
AxysProS8 said:
Youll have to wait for display to reboot when going fwd to rev or vs versa without a battery Will never order another sled without ES. Just makes u look cheap when your pulling your balls off when its flooded. MO .
Click to expand...

While I agree to the re-boot, never noticed it to be a problem, never had a flood, never pulled over 4x. Never "hurt" myself, either, except my XLT, pulled for 20 minutes, and still did not get it started. Loved the sled, hated the starting. It was a Love/Hate deal.

I believe you have overstated to make a weak point.
 
#26 ·
I'm old enough to need electric start. A light weight sled also helps me out. So I installed a light muffler and battery. Total weight savings was 25.3 #. Brought the sled weight down to about 420#. My problem is the battery won't start the sled when the temp is below about 15 degrees. After the first start, it's fine for the rest of the day. The battery must warm up under the hood. The battery is for sale if anyone is interested. It's a wps featherweight lithium. Weight about 1#. Bought from BMP. Retail $195. Sell for $125. PM me if interested.
 
#27 ·
fastsleddr said:
Yep, I do it all the time. I hate ES.

On the one I took the ES off, we removed the battery, and ES wire harness too. Gauge will only work with motor running.
Click to expand...
And there it is...pure and simple. And why on earth would anybody need/want the gauge to work when the motor IS NOT running? You all have motor vehicles for that benefit. :blink:

If the 25 lbs of "convenient starting factor" is worth it (or necessary) to some, well...:thumbsup: But who in the hell keeps ES for "resale factor" :laff:

Between junking than ES and the suitcase muffler, I'll take the 40 lbs of weight savings on the front end. We can call that adding more "woo hoo factor". :fistpump2:

And yes, the weight savings DOES INDEED make a difference. Unless you are a tourist.

:bc2:
 
#28 ·
display

why on earth would anybody need/want the Display to work when the motor IS NOT running?

The best/valid answer is when you 1st get the sled. The Display is not easy to learn. It take the manual, patience, trial & errors.
To learn this Display, while the engine is running can be frustrating.

After learning, you are correct, the Display & Engine need to run as one, just like a car.
Car is different, you are comfortable, no engine noise.
 
#29 ·
I understand the whole weight savings thing ok? I'm a former snocrosser and did everything you could imagine to make our sleds work better. Keep in mind this was back when they didn't have purpose built race sleds.
Also, this is the first sled I've ever had in my life with ES so I'm well versed on how easy they start in all conditions.
Now, to have your dealer remove the factory ES?
How much weight are you gonna add with storage bags, studs, 9.5" shaper bars? Are you going to then get a different exhaust like someone mentioned and get titanium springs, and shafts...remove all the wheels that you can, remove all the foam? Run less gas in the tank? If you're doing all that, then you are building a mod sled in my book and like I said, then it's ok. Fricken MX race bikes are coming with ES now!
Maybe it's like drinking and partying too much, some people grow out of it and others don't.


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#30 ·
Zambroski said:
And there it is...pure and simple. And why on earth would anybody need/want the gauge to work when the motor IS NOT running?
Click to expand...
The IDD requires frequent updates to keep your trails up to date. The "Once a season" update can take up to 10 or 15 mins. The more frequent trails update take 5 to 8 mins.

I don't like to idle my sled for that long.

Mal
 
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#31 ·
My take on the electric start....Last year before I snow checked a couple of machines, I read up on the chat boards.....I was convinced to just get the pull start and save the weight.

One machine I bought only came with ES. Other one is pull start. Ran them all last season.

I would never buy a sled again without electric start. Man is that ever nice. Didn't feel it was needed, but once you have it....love it.

The weight savings sounds great.....but if it's that big of a concern, just put a couple gallons less gas in the tank, (or I could go on a diet. LOL) You'll never notice the extra weight of the electric start.
 
#32 ·
SO.. just like everything else. to each their own, right?
I went from 650 triple (notorious bad start and hard pull) to 600 adventure. Sure, it starts a lot easier with the pull cord than the 650 ever did. BUT I love the ES. Plus, it's worth the money just to make fun of your buddies pulling their sled over.
That, and I don't spend the entire winter season with a sore back.
 
#33 ·
To each their own.

If you work on sleds, the non ES's are much easer to work on.

Was at a pit stop last week, I was the only one without ES, a couple of older fella's (late 60's, early 70') were makin fun of all the ES sleds. The one guy says to his buddy, what a bunch of pussies! :lol:
 
#34 ·
Donner said:
why on earth would anybody need/want the Display to work when the motor IS NOT running?

The best/valid answer is when you 1st get the sled. The Display is not easy to learn. It take the manual, patience, trial & errors.
To learn this Display, while the engine is running can be frustrating.

After learning, you are correct, the Display & Engine need to run as one, just like a car.
Car is different, you are comfortable, no engine noise.
Click to expand...
Ok..valid point for sure. I guess I didn't think aboout all that display stuff. To be honest, I don't know what all mine does, or the one before it (Etec), I just set it to RPM's and that's it. But I suppose they do all kinds of stuff worth learning. THEN...I'd pull the ES. :thumbsup::bc:

Maladjusted said:
The IDD requires frequent updates to keep your trails up to date. The "Once a season" update can take up to 10 or 15 mins. The more frequent trails update take 5 to 8 mins.

I don't like to idle my sled for that long.

Mal
Click to expand...
Good point...again, I forget there's more to the ES sometimes. :bc2:

fastsleddr said:
To each their own.

If you work on sleds, the non ES's are much easer to work on.

Was at a pit stop last week, I was the only one without ES, a couple of older fella's (late 60's, early 70') were makin fun of all the ES sleds. The one guy says to his buddy, what a bunch of pussies! :lol:
Click to expand...
My new Doo had the Estart for the first shitty season. They put it on as a "freebie" :mad: Nobody I rode with had E-start and when we started them next to other groups I acted like I was pulling a rope as I hit the cute little button. :roflmao: You know...gotta try to protect my "man card". :roflmao: :blink:
 
#36 ·
Switchway said:
If a lighter sled helps me miss ditch hazards...I am all in!!!!


who looks at there speedo to figure out when to brake?...no one ...get rid of it!

who needs 112 extra pounds of suspension?....PUSSIES...that's who!
Click to expand...

Hey Switchy......relax. Go make a sandwich or have a glass of milk or something. We're just poking fun. No reason to have a stroke and shit your panties about anything in here.

:)



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#38 ·
Keep the parts. It absolutely helps with resale. Selling it all for $350, not worth it, you will sell it faster and for more with ES. I did the same on my 14 Pro-R, took it off when I had it, put it back on to sell it. Most people are pussies and won't buy without ES.
 
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Discussion starter · #39 ·
So I think I'm going to go with the lithium battery and save MOST of the weight so I can update IDD on the sled.

Some great discussion--and we are just talking about losing FORTY POUNDS--all told with the Bikeman pipe/can--right? So that's 8% if the sleds weight--GONE. OFF THE FRONT. Wheelie nice!

I don't stud it either. Small storage bag only. BTW--Selling the big rack, pack and sidebags that came with it.
 
#40 ·
The big thing is the rotating mass.
What sense does it make to have a lightweight crankshaft then bolt a heavy estart clutch on it?You are back to the weight of a full circle crank.

This is why I always laugh at the cat guys that brag about their 800 power on the dyno.
They need 10 more hp to start with to get that big heavy cat clutch spinning.

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