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Is there anyone out there who has done a top end on an Indy yet? Or has gone into the engine and inspect it? Just curious

My 13 Indy 2800 miles

Cleaned ves at 1000 miles scope the piston both piston are scratch free:lol:.

Cleaned ves again a few weeks ago chk pistons . Pistons are scratch free:thumbsup:.

What concerns me .

1. I have worked on a bunch of recent Polaris models sleds and the adjustments are all over the place .

2.If you look at the Polaris procedure in the manual they get you to visually check the oil pump lever at the bottom of the case . It is notched like the older sled setup. My Indy was a little on the lean side but my friends pro r 600 was way off.

3.I am worried that the CFI engines have almost no piston wash.

4.This Means Lean at oil and lean at fuel ratio. All this to pass emissions.

Im sure that engineers did their homework but then again they couldn't care less if your engine pops after 4800 Miles there are no warranty after that point.

Personally I dont think that these engine will last any longer than the (older)Carb versions. Throw in the possibility of having bad injector, week voltage, incorrect or defective TP sensor on top of all the known 2 stroke issue. If anything they will be worst.


Don't want to be to negative but from what i just saw yesterday and what I have been told by Polaris today its pretty clear to me now .

Make machines to last the warranty period pass emission and after that they can fall apart.:mad:
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
My 13 Indy 2800 miles

Cleaned ves at 1000 miles scope the piston both piston are scratch free:lol:.

Cleaned ves again a few weeks ago chk pistons . Pistons are scratch free:thumbsup:.

What concerns me .

1. I have worked on a bunch of recent Polaris models sleds and the adjustments are all over the place .

2.If you look at the Polaris procedure in the manual they get you to visually check the oil pump lever at the bottom of the case . It is notched like the older sled setup. My Indy was a little on the lean side but my friends pro r 600 was way off.

3.I am worried that the CFI engines have almost no piston wash.

4.This Means Lean at oil and lean at fuel ratio. All this to pass emissions.

Im sure that engineers did their homework but then again they couldn't care less if your engine pops after 4800 Miles there are no warranty after that point.

Personally I dont think that these engine will last any longer than the (older)Carb versions. Throw in the possibility of having bad injector, week voltage, incorrect or defective TP sensor on top of all the known 2 stroke issue. If anything they will be worst.


Don't want to be to negative but from what i just saw yesterday and what I have been told by Polaris today its pretty clear to me now .

Make machines to last the warranty period pass emission and after that they can fall apart.:mad:
There telling us just when to trade them in.:roflmao:
 
too much paint

I broke the jam nut loose, but the oil screw spun with it....too much yellow paint on the threads. The nut and screw turned together and now I do not know what I got. During break in, with a tank of pre-mix, I will check my fuel/oil ratio. Are there alignment marks? Where are they? I would like to check if I got the screw back where it started before I run it.....Thoughts
 
My 600 RMK was at 80:1 stock. I measured after I burned through my first tank of gas and filled up the oil reservoir up full. I then adjusted my pump and turned the screw in 5 turns. It's now running at 40:1.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I broke the jam nut loose, but the oil screw spun with it....too much yellow paint on the threads. The nut and screw turned together and now I do not know what I got. During break in, with a tank of pre-mix, I will check my fuel/oil ratio. Are there alignment marks? Where are they? I would like to check if I got the screw back where it started before I run it.....Thoughts
I see no marks where that adj screw is, the way it looks to me is that it adjusts the linkage going to the oil pump arm.Can someone else confirm this?
 

Attachments

I broke the jam nut loose, but the oil screw spun with it....too much yellow paint on the threads. The nut and screw turned together and now I do not know what I got. During break in, with a tank of pre-mix, I will check my fuel/oil ratio. Are there alignment marks? Where are they? I would like to check if I got the screw back where it started before I run it.....Thoughts
Yes there is ... you need a mechanics mirror (small round mirror on a telescopic shaft) Slide it in under your throttle bodies between your clutches . There is a Arm that goes to the pump on the pump you have the same lever that you had with the cables type back wen . And there is a knoch on the case and on the lever. line then up. i am going to work but i do have the Manuel and il put up the instruction when i get back .
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Wouldn't that be more of a quality control issue rather than an emissions thing i.e you get diffferent settings o different sleds? Is this something the dealer is supposed to check during setup of a new sled?
That is correct...#5 tells you how to turn up your oil in zeg's pic.
 
Wouldn't that be more of a quality control issue rather than an emissions thing i.e you get diffferent settings o different sleds? Is this something the dealer is supposed to check during setup of a new sled?
Yes New Dealer in my Area Rookie Mistakes . They have since then Hired 2 Licensed Tech so it should be good from this point on .

There are a few there than i don't see eye to eye with (the bs type) sometime they forget that the custumor might know more than them. However they Hired 3 guys that Is Really good so it coming around. the Sales manager is also Great with lots of experience .Looks like my Buddy Pro R might Be on Warranty after all. Thanks to the Sales Manager.
 
Thanks much....I will check to see that I am in the ball park.
Take your time Its realy hard to get the mirror exacly were it needs for you to see the knoch. Once you find the Spot its child's play .Use a Flashlite to shine on the mirror. Also be careful of the Angle that you are looking at sometimes it can play trick on you and change the alignment . look at it dead on with the mirror as vertical as you can have it . :thumbsup:
 
How do you verify there isnt air bubble in oil lines? I thought they black lines? Also how do you correct this?
Hi Clay350,

The line from the pump to the tank Should Be Clear . You have 2 options.

1. If the air bubble is near the tank you can unbolt the tank and position it that the oil line is straight up and the bubble will enter the bottle and go to surface.
(some manage to get it out by tipping the sled on its side).

2. If the air bubble is towards the pump you best bet is to bleed the pump. once you bleed it you will see the bubble pass.

Let me know if you need anything else .
 
Yes there is ... you need a mechanics mirror (small round mirror on a telescopic shaft) Slide it in under your throttle bodies between your clutches . There is a Arm that goes to the pump on the pump you have the same lever that you had with the cables type back wen . And there is a knoch on the case and on the lever. line then up. i am going to work but i do have the Manuel and il put up the instruction when i get back .
Thanks for the clarification and service manual attachment.
 
Will the dealer adjust the oil ratio to your liking if it is to benefit the engine say 50:1? Or won't they due to warranty issues....I would think any good mechanic that knows the engine runs on the lean side would do it for the simple fact that he's a GOOD mechanic.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Will the dealer adjust the oil ratio to your liking if it is to benefit the engine say 50:1? Or won't they due to warranty issues....I would think any good mechanic that knows the engine runs on the lean side would do it for the simple fact that he's a GOOD mechanic.
They should,and make sure you receive a bill/work order showing that they did this. Save it for your records just in case.
 
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