If you're wondering if it's upgraded, it's not...you still need the DMC top gear if you plan on owning it for longer than a season

 

Or the Provost bushing. You can press the Provost bushing out and use on other gears if you do a gear change.
Also be careful with the gears on the 2022/20223. some were powdered metal and not machined. the powdered metal ones are junk and will break. You can tell the difference if the smaller teeth on the upper gear go all the way to the edge, with no gap. Also the part numbers are stamped, not etched.

this is a gear with the stamped part number. Junk

 

Do not use the new part number. They are powdered metal junk. They all break. Have no idea why Cat is trying this again. They already tried this more than once and it doesn't work! All in the name of trying to save a $1.

 

So the new part number represents the new powder metal gear? I am trying to determine if my buddies 22 Tcat has the “new“ junk gear or not. It’s a bit confusing with Cat having two models the same listed on the parts diagram for his trim level but one has the SK at the end. There are actually 8 different models of trim level for the thundercat on Country Cats website for the 2022 model year. Four Models with an SK variant for each.

I would like know what that SK and those other numbers mean?

 

Models built and delivered to;
Saskatchewan

 

I thought that was a 21 tooth gear problem

 

As joe_f7 says I have only saw the problem reported on 21 tooth sprockets on the winders. They changed bushing material in 22 (doesnt seem to be much better) and thats why their is different part numbers. My factory 22 tooth gear in my 23 riot was a good gear, not the powdered metal junk

 

I had no idea powdered metal gears even existed. That just seems wrong.

 

It is wrong.
What is really maddening is Cat (and most of the others) have tried it before, a couple times. Never worked. Gears split, broke, chipped teeth, wore out in no time, etc. What are they thinking?!!

 

What machines were they used on in the past? I feel like I have owned nearly every gear ever offered and never ran into one

 

Mid-90 Wildcat 650
2012, 2013 800's

 

Mid-90 Wildcat 650
2012, 2013 800's

The 650 would be 1991 and earlier...1992 started the 700 era...During our drag racing days from 1986-1995, we never broke a Cat chaincase gear...The open fueler 1050 was putting almost 350hp thru the drivetrain back then...

 

I had 2012/13 800’s 128 and 141. Still have the gears, I’ll try to look at them tonight. Was lucky enough to never have a wildcat. I use to make most of those look silly with my 440 prowler

 

Was on a trip on the weekend and something happened in my chaincase on my 22 TCAT. Saw this thread and I am like, this could very well be my problem. Ruined my trip, but was able to limp it to the hwy at least. Took to dealer this morning, snap ring inside the chaincase let go on the bottom gear is what they are saying. Anyone ever have this happen. The clunking noise I heard was the gear walking on the shaft and hitting the side of the case. Going to upgrade the top gear while I am at it, but I am very curious as to why this would happen and how it could happen. A little over 3000 miles, tuned to 250hp with 192 studs.

 

Never seen it or heard of it happening. That sane snap ring/lower gear design has been used on every machine since 2012

 

I know, weird for sure. was on a straight stretch, just coming off a bit of a hump, gave it hard acceleration and all I could hear is clunking.

 

A few questions about top gears.
Are they necessary on stock a sidewinder?
And...Are the DMC type and Hurricane needle bearing type to be installed with a new shaft?

 

The stock bushing is the weak point on all no matter HP. Can be installed on stock shaft. Not sure about that needle bearing. One more bearing that could fail. That could get ugly.

 

I have seen stock bushings with minimal wear at 5000 miles, and after market popular ones that were shot at 1500 miles. I wish I understood the rationale behind it. But I have seen it

 

I think it’s related to driving habits and chain tightness. Allot over tighten chain. The finger tight and backing off 1.5 turns is subjective. I don’t like to even touch the chain tensioner unless Chain case is open and I can see what I am doing. And if your on and off the throttle hard all the time your harder on gear bushing, compared to a guy that just cruises for 5000 miles.

 

Just wondering if you have to run these new gears on a fresh surface / shaft.

My 2010 1200 renegade has a stock top gear. Its got needle bearings. 13500 miles. Doo does some things well.

 

Hurricane needle bearing is an option but not necessary IMO. Just need one of the upgraded bushings available on market. Ulmer has one, DMC, Prevost, others.
Fill case w 16 oz oil. Keep chain adjusted correctly.
Top gear turns with shaft in forward gear. Allot of guys think it is spinning on shaft. It's not. The only time top gear spins on shaft is when sled is in reverse. That's it.

 

Had my case open last year after 2200 miles, the top gear had a little rocking motion to it, figured it be ok for another season, and it was, now at 4000 miles.
I purchased the DMC 24t gear from BOP, I really like the concept of the new bigger bushing. Wear on that bushing really shouldn't happen, but it could wear while reversing, which is the very first thing I do on every ride as I back out of my trailer, when that top bushing is at its driest it will be all day.
Love this machine, spending a little extra $ and time making it even more reliable is cheap insurance as they say.

 

A little rocking will cause bad things to happen! If it rocks it will could come out of forward gear along with destroying the shift fork wear pads.

No way I'd ever run with a gear that wobbles on the shaft at all. I used to install new bushings every fall even if it just wore the coating off the bushing, but I have since gone to the Hurricane needle bearing gear. I've been installing many of these in sleds now with no more wear and no problems at all anymore. I was concerned that the needles would dent the shaft but it a non issue and they have proven themselves to me over thousands of miles in my sled and customers sleds too.

Hurricane roller top gear, tack welding the tensioner rollers and the BOP wedge makes the driveline dang near bulletproof on the 17's and newer models.

 

Always thought that roller bearing idea was cool. My only concern was if the bearing let loose and those needles flew out creating a chaincase blender Glad to hear some feedback on it. People seem to like extended bronze bushing gears from DMC and Prevost

 

What can I say, had a little rocking, ran flawless and shifts perfectly. 🤷‍♂️ like I said, changing it accordingly. Also have the brass shift fork pads ready to go in too. Shaft saver has been in since day 1.

 

Yeah, I went with the DMC instead of the needle bearing, don't really know if the shaft is as hard as a bearing race, concerned that the needles would cause some brinelling on the shaft.

 

SK are Ship with Kit models. Thundercats SK came with a handlebar and tail bag. The other numbers are the official Arctic Cat model numbers

 

Ditto on the DMC gear and brass shift fork pads.

 

That’s exactly what I did this fall. My stock gear and bushing were still acceptable at 4000 miles but had the new stuff and planned on the upgrades before hand. Shit fork pads I think is a wearable part that only makes sense to upgrade. I agree driver style has a lot to do with bearing wear in every part of the sled. I know because my son can beat the shit outta anything. Lol

 

I have the DMC in my sled. Had a "jump into Neutral" issue. Said heck with it and put all new parts in the chaincase- Actuator motor, brass shift pads (after putting in 3 sets of OEM), DMC gear, fork slide shafts, and some other gadgets in there.. Did Taylor gears 4 years ago. Shifts wonderful now without jumping probs.