Nice work...

 

I'll chime in later in the week on my days off with details and pics of my install.



UPDATE

ok so here is my parts list:

• 1" reflective foam board from lowes. R-rating of 6.5 $18 a sheet x 6 sheets
• 1 Deep Cycle Marine Battery Group Size 29. Walmart for $100.
• 1 Suburban SFQ-35FQ Quiet Model 35,000 BTU propane furnace $450 off ebay. Airxcel | Suburban Manufacturing Products These are nice and do not require an exterior door for access do to flexibility with where the propane connection is. Only a small vent plate on the outside.
• Suburban exterior vent plate $15 from anyrvparts.com part #260542
• heater intake tube for that plate $8 part # 050906
• Elixir 30 Amp RV Power Converter to get 12v power off 120v $105 ebay
• Propane tank wall mount $52 ebay
• Propane regulator and 12 ft hose $40 ebay
• Suburban wall mount thermostat $14 ebay
• Misc Wood for shelf $20 lowes
• Misc flex pipe, muffler sealant and adapters from advance auto $30

I agree about the moisture from other heaters. With my salamander I would get so much condensation in there the ceiling use to have water dripping off of it inside. Was crazy. Vented furnaces are the way to go. Much quieter too.

Info on my trailer and spray foaming wall gap:
Trailer is 24 feet long with a 4 foot V-nose. So 28 feet total. I opted for a 7 foot tall ceiling as well. So it is a large area to heat. The 35k btu furnace does a good job. 40k might be more ideal and it would run less but 40k for whatever reason seems to cost a lot more. I can still get to 70 all day long so it's good enough. No insulation is in the trailer at all when I bought it. It has 3/8 inch plywood walls from the factory. There is atleast a 1 inch air gap between the inside wall and outside wall due to the 1" square framework tubing. When I cut out the electrical outlet holes I noticed the wood fell to the ground so I layed under the trailer and filled that gap with three cans of great stuff big gap filler expanding foam. It was quite and easy and wasn't even messy. Did the entire length of the trailer both sides. So it is now sealed from outside air blowing right up in between the walls and out the interior at the top where the walls meet the roof. This helped a lot holding heat in there. Attached is a picture (a couple posts down in the thread) of what the spray foam would look like if the walls were removed so you can visualize it... but again I was able to do it from underneath which is cool.

12 Volt Power:
12v convenience is nice. Toss a battery in and no external power or 120vac or generator needed. I love that. Basically I can walk into the trailer...slide the thermostat slider over and furnace kicks on and its not that loud at all. No 120v power required. This is the ultimate in convenience. No time spent freezing rigging up a generator or outside power. I bought a new deep cycle battery. You definitely want a deep cycle. My furnace will run nonstop for pretty atleast 40 hours on a full battery charge. I bought the biggest deep cycle walmart had. See below for info on how I charge it.

Insulation:
Before I insulated the roof the furnace ran nonstop when it was around 25 out if I was trying to keep it at 70. When it was zero out I had trouble breaking 60 degrees in there. Down by the floor it was colder. My feet would get quite cold a couple times I was in there wrenching. I decided to insulate the roof and that helped a ton! The furnace will kick on now and it takes a good half hour to bring everything in the trailer up to temp. keep in mind its heating up the sleds, the gear, walls and everything else in there. Once that stuff is up to temp the furnace actually turns off here and there now and doesn't have to run nonstop to keep it at 70. Condensation does not exist in there anymore.

To install the insulation just took some time but it was easy. I bought probably 20 rolls of reflective tape from lowes at $3 a piece. If I was planning ahead I would just buy a couple rolls there were much longer to save some cash. They only had rolls maybe 40 feet long. The roof has framework (1" square tubing) every 14 inches or so. A sheet cut in half was the perfect width. So i'd cut the entire sheet in half then cut the width I needed for each section. My trailer has a nice little ledge of framework out the outside walls so I could set the insulation on that push it up and it'd hold itself while I taped it. Each piece meets in the middle of the roof and is also taped there. it worked out great.

120V Power and 12V RV Power Converter/batt charger:
Now I ran 120v power throughout the trailer. I can plug in from a house or whatever and I also have to generator hookups. I installed 3 four foot fluorescent lights which lights it up in there awesome. Trailer also has 3 12v dome lights. Now I needed a way to simply charge the battery that I stored in an overhead cabinet. I decided to go with the elixir 30 amp power converter model. 30 amps I figured is plenty to charge the battery and also run the 12v dome lights if I so desired. It is a plus being able to run the 12v dome lights off the battery and not requiring power from the truck. I didn't finish wiring that part up yet but I will. Basically a lead runs to it from my 120v panel I have right above it. From there the unit converts to 12v power. It has a charging lead for batteries and also regular 12v outputs for other accessories or lights. The elixir unit is very nice and it is shallow so its not real obtrusive as far as space required. I framed around it and it looks great. Anytime the generator is on or 120v power is hooked to trailer the power converter automatically chargers the battery.

Actual Furnace installation:
The furnace weighs a decent amount. Atleast 25lbs probably. I installed a shelf to mount it on with wood from lowes. I also ran some self tapping screws into the furnace thru the cabinet that I wall mounted next to it to help hold it. Then I used 1 zip screw into the shelf to hold it. It's mounted very solid and that part was quick and easy. I plan to make it fully enclosed this summer for more aesthetic appeal.

The battery fits right into the cabinet next to it and I just blew a hole in the top of the cabinet against the wall and the wires feed out to power the furnace. Thin wires also run back from the furnace then down the wall and thru a small hole I made behind the thermostat for a nice clean install. The power converter is on the other side of the trailer so I concealed the power wires that run from that to the battery behind the wood wall panels at the top. An important note is not to forget to fuse this stuff as you don't want any wires to short out and cause a fire. Fuse it close to the battery!! The rv power converter also has a breaker for the outgoing power and fuses as well.

For the intake and exhaust I used a hole saw and blew 2 holes thru the plywood interior wall. I made them a tad larger then the intake and exhaust hole diameters so I didn't have to be so precise with hole alignment. It worked out great. Then I made the proper size cutouts in the alum exterior wall from the inside. I went outside with the small tube and the vent... some silicone, 4 screws and that was that. Mounted nice and solid. Inside I had to cob up some exhaust adapters and some flex pipe from advance auto but I got it working. Just to be even safer any junctions I used some muffler sealant putty on. It works great in an interior environment and dried fast. Seals great. That's about it for the install.

Duct Work:
I opted not to run ducts throughout the trailer. My plans originally were to run the rooftop unit off the generator to heat the trailer. Then I realized since my unit is the nicer heat pump version... that heat pumps are useless below 32 degrees. On heat strip models the electric heat strips only output 5k. So I learned fast propane is where its at for btus! I had already installed some shelves and other accessories to the walls so I decided rather then fish duct work all over that sticks out from walls and looks like shit to just vent out the large front rectangle duct and out two of the bottom ducts. I blow two holes in the shelf that holds the furnace with a large hole saw and heat pours downward and straight out into the center of the trailer. It works good enough but the floor is always a little colder then at the roof. Just the good old heat rises theory. A fan would help to move air around but really its not that bad. I didn't finish wiring up the rooftop unit but that has three blower speeds I can run at any time so that will move air around like crazy. I have read from others fans and air movement do help with even heat distribution a good amount. Next i'll talk about the propane.

Propane Tank Installation:











I opted to mount the tank inside for a number of reasons.

• One...its just way easier.
• No tank mounts to install or weld to the frame
• No dealing with frozen tanks or tanks covered in salt or changing iced up tanks in the freezing cold on the neck of the trailer
• No running lines from outside to inside the trailer.

Safety concerns and tank location:
There has been some debate on this but here is my honest opinion.

Propane has such a massive odor if there was a leak you'd notice it instantly in such a small sealed environment. Personally I feel its quite safe. If you slept in there and want further piece of mind just install an alarm that detects the presence of propane. People say the regulator might vent some propane. If they do its such a small amount it's harmless. Let me ask you this.... propane grilling is quite safe correct. Now where is the tank mounted? Directly below a massive open flame. If these regulators vented propane or tanks leaked that often and caused explosions or fires do you think grills would be sold as such by the tens of thousands year after year for decades. You can say well yah, what if this... and what if that, but in all honesty mounting the tank inside is completely safe without building some special door to vent it outside like some mentioned. Its just too extreme and its not needed. If you never plan to sleep in it and your always alert in there then you have better odds of being hit by lightning 3x in one day then having this thing explode. Unless you are a total moron with no sense of smell... then your fucked. :dead::flame:












So onto the tank install.

• I bought a mount off ebay and zip screwed it to the wall (thru metal frame)
• I bought a 12 foot hose that had the proper ends for furnace and tank. I installed the hose and use plastic conduit straps to hold hose to wall. I ran it straight over about 6 feet then straight down 6 feet to the tank.
• The tank clamp has a wing nut and its cake to swap tanks out in a nice warm, dry environment.

Propane usage:
I can get two days of running the furnace 18 hours if not more on a $17 tank fill. This is a 20lb cylinder.


Update- The advent rooftop reverse cycle heat pump a/c unit is very nice to have to cool it down in there during the summer when wrenching. Love it. It'll also provide heat as long as its warmer then 34 out. The digital wall thermostat is gorgeous too. Quite nice and backlit blue.

Links to Videos of Installation:
The videos are high definition if you click 720p on the settings.


This video is the furnace install.

This video is a trailer walk thru and it shows the power converter installed below the 120v power panel along with the propane tank installation.

Below are some images of the install and further down in the thread more photos are posted of the furnace installation.​

 

I'll chime in later in the week on my days off with details and pics of my install.



UPDATE

ok so here is my parts list:

• 1" reflective foam board from lowes. R-rating of 6.5 $18 a sheet x 6 sheets
• 1 Deep Cycle Marine Battery Group Size 29. Walmart for $100.
• 1 Suburban SFQ-35FQ Quiet Model 35,000 BTU propane furnace $450 off ebay. Airxcel | Suburban Manufacturing Products These are nice and do not require an exterior door for access do to flexibility with where the propane connection is. Only a small vent plate on the outside.
• Suburban exterior vent plate $15 from anyrvparts.com part #260542
• heater intake tube for that plate $8 part # 050906
• Elixir 30 Amp RV Power Converter to get 12v power off 120v $105 ebay
• Propane tank wall mount $52 ebay
• Propane regulator and 12 ft hose $40 ebay
• Suburban wall mount thermostat $14 ebay
• Misc Wood for shelf $20 lowes
• Misc flex pipe, muffler sealant and adapters from advance auto $30

I agree about the moisture from other heaters. With my salamander I would get so much condensation in there the ceiling use to have water dripping off of it inside. Was crazy. Vented furnaces are the way to go. Much quieter too.

Info on my trailer and spray foaming wall gap:
Trailer is 24 feet long with a 4 foot V-nose. So 28 feet total. I opted for a 7 foot tall ceiling as well. So it is a large area to heat. The 35k btu furnace does a good job. 40k might be more ideal and it would run less but 40k for whatever reason seems to cost a lot more. I can still get to 70 all day long so it's good enough. No insulation is in the trailer at all when I bought it. It has 3/8 inch plywood walls from the factory. There is atleast a 1 inch air gap between the inside wall and outside wall due to the 1" square framework tubing. When I cut out the electrical outlet holes I noticed the wood fell to the ground so I layed under the trailer and filled that gap with three cans of great stuff big gap filler expanding foam. It was quite and easy and wasn't even messy. Did the entire length of the trailer both sides. So it is now sealed from outside air blowing right up in between the walls and out the interior at the top where the walls meet the roof. This helped a lot holding heat in there. Attached is a picture (a couple posts down in the thread) of what the spray foam would look like if the walls were removed so you can visualize it... but again I was able to do it from underneath which is cool.

12 Volt Power:
12v convenience is nice. Toss a battery in and no external power or 120vac or generator needed. I love that. Basically I can walk into the trailer...slide the thermostat slider over and furnace kicks on and its not that loud at all. No 120v power required. This is the ultimate in convenience. No time spent freezing rigging up a generator or outside power. I bought a new deep cycle battery. You definitely want a deep cycle. My furnace will run nonstop for pretty atleast 40 hours on a full battery charge. I bought the biggest deep cycle walmart had. See below for info on how I charge it.

Insulation:
Before I insulated the roof the furnace ran nonstop when it was around 25 out if I was trying to keep it at 70. When it was zero out I had trouble breaking 60 degrees in there. Down by the floor it was colder. My feet would get quite cold a couple times I was in there wrenching. I decided to insulate the roof and that helped a ton! The furnace will kick on now and it takes a good half hour to bring everything in the trailer up to temp. keep in mind its heating up the sleds, the gear, walls and everything else in there. Once that stuff is up to temp the furnace actually turns off here and there now and doesn't have to run nonstop to keep it at 70. Condensation does not exist in there anymore.

To install the insulation just took some time but it was easy. I bought probably 20 rolls of reflective tape from lowes at $3 a piece. If I was planning ahead I would just buy a couple rolls there were much longer to save some cash. They only had rolls maybe 40 feet long. The roof has framework (1" square tubing) every 14 inches or so. A sheet cut in half was the perfect width. So i'd cut the entire sheet in half then cut the width I needed for each section. My trailer has a nice little ledge of framework out the outside walls so I could set the insulation on that push it up and it'd hold itself while I taped it. Each piece meets in the middle of the roof and is also taped there. it worked out great.

120V Power and 12V RV Power Converter/batt charger:
Now I ran 120v power throughout the trailer. I can plug in from a house or whatever and I also have to generator hookups. I installed 3 four foot fluorescent lights which lights it up in there awesome. Trailer also has 3 12v dome lights. Now I needed a way to simply charge the battery that I stored in an overhead cabinet. I decided to go with the elixir 30 amp power converter model. 30 amps I figured is plenty to charge the battery and also run the 12v dome lights if I so desired. It is a plus being able to run the 12v dome lights off the battery and not requiring power from the truck. I didn't finish wiring that part up yet but I will. Basically a lead runs to it from my 120v panel I have right above it. From there the unit converts to 12v power. It has a charging lead for batteries and also regular 12v outputs for other accessories or lights. The elixir unit is very nice and it is shallow so its not real obtrusive as far as space required. I framed around it and it looks great. Anytime the generator is on or 120v power is hooked to trailer the power converter automatically chargers the battery. It also does it when the vehicle is in tow off the trucks tow harness.

Actual Furnace installation:
The furnace weighs a decent amount. Atleast 25lbs probably. I installed a shelf to mount it on with wood from lowes. I also ran some self tapping screws into the furnace thru the cabinet that I wall mounted next to it to help hold it. Then I used 1 zip screw into the shelf to hold it. It's mounted very solid and that part was quick and easy. I plan to make it fully enclosed this summer for more aesthetic appeal.

The battery fits right into the cabinet next to it and I just blew a hole in the top of the cabinet against the wall and the wires feed out to power the furnace. Thin wires also run back from the furnace then down the wall and thru a small hole I made behind the thermostat for a nice clean install. The power converter is on the other side of the trailer so I concealed the power wires that run from that to the battery behind the wood wall panels at the top. An important note is not to forget to fuse this stuff as you don't want any wires to short out and cause a fire. Fuse it close to the battery!! The rv power converter also has a breaker for the outgoing power and fuses as well.

For the intake and exhaust I used a hole saw and blew 2 holes thru the plywood interior wall. I made them a tad larger then the intake and exhaust hole diameters so I didn't have to be so precise with hole alignment. It worked out great. Then I made the proper size cutouts in the alum exterior wall from the inside. I went outside with the small tube and the vent... some silicone, 4 screws and that was that. Mounted nice and solid. Inside I had to cob up some exhaust adapters and some flex pipe from advance auto but I got it working. Just to be even safer any junctions I used some muffler sealant putty on. It works great in an interior environment and dried fast. Seals great. That's about it for the install.

Duct Work:
I opted not to run ducts throughout the trailer. My plans originally were to run the rooftop unit off the generator to heat the trailer. Then I realized since my unit is the nicer heat pump version... that heat pumps are useless below 32 degrees. On heat strip models the electric heat strips only output 5k. So I learned fast propane is where its at for btus! I had already installed some shelves and other accessories to the walls so I decided rather then fish duct work all over that sticks out from walls and looks like shit to just vent out the large front rectangle duct and out two of the bottom ducts. I blow two holes in the shelf that holds the furnace with a large hole saw and heat pours downward and straight out into the center of the trailer. It works good enough but the floor is always a little colder then at the roof. Just the good old heat rises theory. A fan would help to move air around but really its not that bad. I didn't finish wiring up the rooftop unit but that has three blower speeds I can run at any time so that will move air around like crazy. I have read from others fans and air movement do help with even heat distribution a good amount. Next i'll talk about the propane.

Propane Tank Installation:











I opted to mount the tank inside for a number of reasons.

• One...its just way easier.
• No tank mounts to install or weld to the frame
• No dealing with frozen tanks or tanks covered in salt or changing iced up tanks in the freezing cold on the neck of the trailer
• No running lines from outside to inside the trailer.

Safety concerns and tank location:
There has been some debate on this but here is my honest opinion.

Propane has such a massive odor if there was a leak you'd notice it instantly in such a small sealed environment. Personally I feel its quite safe. If you slept in there and want further piece of mind just install an alarm that detects the presence of propane. People say the regulator might vent some propane. If they do its such a small amount it's harmless. Let me ask you this.... propane grilling is quite safe correct. Now where is the tank mounted? Directly below a massive open flame. If these regulators vented propane or tanks leaked that often and caused explosions or fires do you think grills would be sold as such by the tens of thousands year after year for decades. You can say well yah, what if this... and what if that, but in all honesty mounting the tank inside is completely safe without building some special door to vent it outside like some mentioned. Its just too extreme and its not needed. If you never plan to sleep in it and your always alert in there then you have better odds of being hit by lightning 3x in one day then having this thing explode. Unless you are a total moron with no sense of smell... then your fucked. :dead::flame:












So onto the tank install.

• I bought a mount off ebay and zip screwed it to the wall (thru metal frame)
• I bought a 12 foot hose that had the proper ends for furnace and tank. I installed the hose and use plastic conduit straps to hold hose to wall. I ran it straight over about 6 feet then straight down 6 feet to the tank.
• The tank clamp has a wing nut and its cake to swap tanks out in a nice warm, dry environment.

Propane usage:
I can get two days of running the furnace 18 hours if not more on a $17 tank fill. This is a 20lb cylinder.

Links to Videos of Installation:
The videos are high definition if you click 720p on the settings.


This video is the furnace install.
Snowmobile trailer propane vented furnace - YouTube

This video is a trailer walk thru and it shows the power converter installed below the 120v power panel along with the propane tank installation.
My pimped out enclosed snowmobile trailer and 2013 sno pro - YouTube

Below are some images of the install and further down in the thread more photos are posted of the furnace installation.​

Nice to see the Axxxtion sports calendar in your trailer, you even had it on my sled!!!

 

Very cool post now all you need is a beer fridge

 

very well done, i appreciate you giving credit to others where it was due. the set of pictures you have with my name on em, the top right one, the one with white foam, isnt my trailer, just thought i'd let you know! if ANYONE has any questions on anything trailer related, just let me know! a PM is best. i could sit here and type pages of information but its all over this website also. goodluck to anyone heating a trailer! i'll try to throw up some pictures of my propane tank setup, i said in the other thread i would and still havent gotten to it, sorry!



i thought about that...then i remembered i'm in the cold weather, my interior space is to precious to give up to a mini fridge!...throw the beer in a foam cooler outside the door!

 

agreed on the beer fridge. just set them outside. cold in no time.

More photos...

 

agreed on the beer fridge. just set them outside. cold in no time.

You might want things other than beer kept cold if camping for a few days.

 

Thanks guys!
Precious interior room indeed! Usually keep a cooler in there on trips though.

John, I can help you install when you buy your inline!

If you guys could post your setups, that would be great! More ideas for others.

lg96gt - Alright, I'll get the pic edited. Figuring out my propane location was the hardest thing-so more propane pics the better for options.

I tried to quote helpful info correctly from others. If I missed info or people, please chime in. Some pics I had saved over time, so I wasn't quite sure of the original poster. Figured if they were posted online, I could share them.
Also, if anyone wants to re-post good info from the Trucks and Trailers thread about heating(no thread hi-jacking comments here!).

 

Have you insulated your floor, or are you considering doing so? It occurred to me that, after insulating the walls and ceiling, both of which are important, that the cold floor would be the next candidate, yet I don't see many ppl doing so. I would think that would make it MUCH more comfortable. Perhaps a spray-foam application so it would insulate and seal at the same time?

 

I thought about it but def a lot of work. plus the whole heat rises theory. i'm not entire sure how much it would help. spray foams probably the best option but man that would be messy with it dripping all over u laying on ur back under there. f that. it gets warm enough. 70 all day long in there and your feet only get cold if your sitting there wrenching for 5 hours.

 

I haven't found anyone that I talked to that has insulated their floor. Just like gerald143 said, all the heat rises anyways, so you aren't going to have much heat escaping on the floor. I do wear warmer work boots when I'm in there, so initially the floor is cold, but the floor level does become better with the fan circulating the warm air.
I do plan on adding a little insulation on the sidewalls, but I'll leave the floor alone.

 

But that's just the thing... the floor is cold. When you're in there working, or sleeping at night at the track, campsite, whatever, that trailer bottom is cold. Put some insulation in there and no more cold floor. For the little bit that a spray-foam guy would charge to do it, I'd think it would be money well spent.

 

I wonder what a spray foam dude would charge. that and it'd keep the damn salt off a lot of the frame.

 

i debated the floor heavily but after getting quotes there was just no way...i dont remember exactly but it was almost a grand i believe because they had to rent a lift out of a local trailer shop to get enough clearance to spray it...doing it yourself would be nearly impossible and you have to have it super clean, absolutly no dirt, dust, sand, salt etc to get it to stick....i know my dads 5th wheel camper is the "artic" version. the entire underside is sprayed, then they put basically a skid plate under the entire thing (its 1 solid piece) sealing it up 100% because the elements would just eat at and destroy the foam over time...theres just not enough gain in doing the floor in my opinion, especially when doing it "right the first time" would probably end up around $2000 by the time its cleaned, prepped, sprayed, and have some kind of sealing layer. for those not insulated, the best investment, the one you shouldnt even question doing is the ceiling....the ceiling is by far your biggest heat loss without a doubt.

 

Matt - AC next?

Inline may be sooner than expected. Not sure if you saw my weld issue thread but I had welds break up in Mercer on my clamshell.

 

Matt - AC next?

Inline may be sooner than expected. Not sure if you saw my weld issue thread but I had welds break up in Mercer on my clamshell.

i got lucky in this department...my trailer has an access door on the driver side to get your car door open (its originally a race car trailer)...i NEVER use that door...havent taken the lock off it since i finished painting 6 months ago! anyways...i'm gonna find a way to make a nice clean, SEALED fit around that door with a piece of plywood and put a window A/C unit in the piece of plywood...be able to open the door, throw the a/c in place in no time flat...no plumbing, no wires to run, no holes to cut in my roof etc!

 

I'm anxious to see how my rooftop ac works

 

editing one of my priors posts in just a couple of minutes. so scroll up and see a wealth of info on my install including video.

 

that bubble wrap stuff's r value is a joke. 6-8" of spray foam on the other hand would have and r value of what... r-50 lol.

anytime the generator is on or 120v power is hooked to trailer the power converter automatically chargers the battery. it also does it when the vehicle is in tow off the trucks tow harness.
I updated most of my post for now with videos and photos etc. Time to go have a few beers after that post. whew. If anyone wants the trailer.... for the right price anything is for sale

:bc:

 

gerard143 - Couldn't remember if responded back about your intake. You think about taking it off and plugging the hole to see if you could get it warmer in there? You would be using the already warm trailer air for intake. That might be why you can't get it warmer in there at the really cold temps. Just maybe something to try.
Nice video and great information! :bc2:

One other propane option I seen people do. Run your propane lines inside, but have 1 quick disconnect exposed to the outside to have the propane tank sit outside. You would store it inside, but while it was in use you move it outside.

 

with insulation I get up to 70 no prob. I could plug the intake on the outside but screw it. it is warm enough now. no complaints.

 

these units use a sealed burner. thats why their safe when it comes to cleaning carbs, playing with gas etc while working. the outside plate with intake and exahust are moving the same air...air comes in one, gets introduced to propane, burns, and then the same air leaves as exhaust. the intake is just simply for the burner. its the ONLY thing keeping you safe while working on your carbs..these units already only draw on inside air to heat, no "fresh air" is introducted into the trailer ONLY into the burner and exhausted out right away. the "return air" if you will, is already the inside trailer air...not using the outside exterior intake would be a suicide mission as far as working with anything flamable and it wouldnt help inside temperatures at all.

 

Thanks for the info.
Researching before, it looked like there was conflicting info out there on using the cold air intake. I assumed it would hurt your heating capabilities when using it in really cold temperatures when I'm normally in. Like allowing cold air to creep into the heater/trailer when it was off.
Looks like that was incorrect.
Correct info as follows should be..??
Intake and exhaust ports are closed systems going into the heater, and will not allow cold air inside the trailer. They use the same fan to vent in and exhaust out, just going to the burner only.
Last fall during the installation buy, I bought the air intake tube(# 050906) just in case I was going to install it. I'll get that installed then. Easy install.
I still believe I was safe when I used the heater. Enough trailer crevices and me opening the door to have my smoke breaks and beer pickup outside the trailer.
Thanks for the info!

 

Any one ever done it? What di d you use? Is it worth it?

alright, for those of you just chiming in i pulled that quote from another thread and wanted to answer it here so its all in one place rather than scattered all around.

i insulated my ceiling and walls. first off, my ceiling like yours is rounded. i chose a trailer with a rounded roof so that snow would slide off it easier rather than it laying on top of a flat roof trailer. my ceiling was bare, and has the curve to it so i knew it would be a challenge...be prepared to ask some buddies for help but don't feed them to much beer til the project is done!! i used fiberglass insulation for my whole trailer. my trailer frame supports are 16 on center apart. i bought 16" wide like 30 ft long rolls 6" deep R13 insulation. my air gap is only 1.5". i cut the roll to length, in my case 7ft, and then separated it in half. now I'm only cramming 3" into the 1.5" space. i bought the stuff with the backing on it because its rated as a vapor barrier. i did one entire side of the trailer using the half with the backing still on it. i duct taped all the seams, and put the walls back up. this was easy, did it by myself...only real bitch was having to take out like 40+ screws per sheet of plywood only to have to put em all back...on the other side, i already had all my pieces cut because i i used the un-backed pieces leftover from the other side...i had carefully set them in a pile in order so i did the other side in the opposite direction (front to back rather than back to front) and on this side i bought a 30ft long by 10ft tall sheet of vapor barrier (just standard plastic used everyday for this purpose) it was like $10 for the roll...again, i taped all the insulation in place, not only to insure its nice and sealed but helps hold it in place and keep it from settling while bouncing going down the road....rolled my sheet of plastic out and taped that into place and i have a vapor barrier on that side. all in all, the walls were SIMPLE. especially once you get in the groove it took me maybe 4 hours total to do both walls and that includes taking the boards down and putting them back up. the front was TRICKY! not only was it curved like the ceiling, but the supports run horizontal, not vertical and the spacing is all f*ck3d up. i made it work, used lots of tape, and ended up putting an additional sheet of plastic for a vapor barrier up there also. all around the floor it was open between the air gap and the outside world...as gerald143 said, we both used "great stuff" spray foam...i used calking tube (rod) (basically just round foam) to help fill the gaps, then sprayed around them. the "great stuff" can be had for about $2/can at Menards compared to $6-8 for the the other more known brand...for this purpose the great stuff did great....it only takes a couple cans, but i ended up using a good 10 cans. the front of my trailer had like a 2" gap that needed to be filled, along with using it above the door frame and that took a can itself times 2 walk in doors and the giant back door. anyways...the ceiling. the ceiling took a while to figure out my plan...i ended up buying 4X8 sheets of 1/4" luan sheeting from Menards...only about $8/sheet. its the flimsy cheap crap they use for making panels and stuff in campers...it bends fairly well, is rather light considering its size, and worked out great...i bought a few packs of stainless 3/4" self tapping screws to hold it up. again, same air gap, same procedure. this time though, we used a few cans of spray adhesive to hold it up in place, and while on the saw horses we stapled plastic to the panels before they went up for the vapor barrier. this took three guys...two guys to get the sheets into the trailer and up the ceiling, the third guy hurried his ass up to get it lined up and centered and get a handful of screws in. on the "seams" i used one screw and some rivet washers so that i could "double" the size of the screw head and stretch it across the two sheets on the seam so that on the seams i wasn't using twice as many screws as necessary....worked my way all the way to the back...took my time to cut around the ceiling vents and before you know it it was all done. i never heated it before i insulated it. but from previous experience i know how much insulation helps...from my understanding R1 is twice as much insulation as nothing...R2 is twice as much R1 and R3 is twice as much as R2. and so on and so on. you can get R60 for gosh sakes but for budget wise and what not my R13 cut in half is doing great. i figure i have about R7 between the 3/8th sheet of plywood, and the insulation. i can run my 30k BTU furnace on one 20lb cylinder for a few days...at least 2 maybe 3 solid, nonstop, days keeping it at 68 with minimal running in and out of the doors, especially the back door.. as far as i know no one's getting that good of propane use at that temp that's not insulated. all in all the way i did it, using rebates, coupons etc I'm only about $300 (i think it was actually like $268 or something) into every single aspect of insulation, between the insulation itself, the spray foam, duct tape, screws, vapor barrier, roof sheeting, new heavier gauge wire for the fans in the vents etc.

 

how'd you do that fancy deal where you put 4 pictures together? years in IT and i have never been one to do fancy image crap...

 

Omg it's simple. About 400 iPhone/iPad apps do it. Or cut and paste in paint lol!

 

paint is a P.O.S. but maybe i'll look into it.

sure as hell aint buying one of them other nasty shitty things you listed! :frantics:

 

 

i'll try to get some pictures of my propane line running through the trailer and what not...gotta get it cleaned up first and a little organized.

 

Lol I can do that same thing he did using paste from command in paint in about 13 seconds flat

 

Great insulation info and pics! Very well documented and explained.

I have Roxio Easy Media Creator 10 software package that I use. The photo editing software is Photosuite. The whole media package is great; use it for pictures, video, music, and whole bunch of options. It's my favorite music converter software too. I picked it for free from a buddy, but you can find it pretty cheap. Makes photo editing a breeze!!

Paint.. I hate that program. I can't believe Microsoft Paint is still the same after all these years!