The best drive shaft saver imo is from precision EFI. Have them on my sled, my dads and my buddies.

DRIVESHAFT SAVER - PROCROSS

THE BEST ON THE MARKET the all new Precision EFI driveshaft saver will fix the loose tolerence between your driveshaft and bearing where the caliper is located. No need to remove your rotor and driveshaft from your sled. Our driveshaft saver is design to be flush installation with no stick out...

precisionefi.com

 

The best drive shaft saver imo is from precision EFI. Have them on my sled, my dads and my buddies.

DRIVESHAFT SAVER - PROCROSS

THE BEST ON THE MARKET the all new Precision EFI driveshaft saver will fix the loose tolerence between your driveshaft and bearing where the caliper is located. No need to remove your rotor and driveshaft from your sled. Our driveshaft saver is design to be flush installation with no stick out...

precisionefi.com

That will fit the ‘16 as well? They advertise for the 998?

 

Precision piece is nice. I’ve never removed a bearing off one that was expanded yet, but I am interested in how that would go.

 

i bought 6 of them for all the cats me and my buds have, hard to find shafts at junkyards, so many bearings ate em up.not the bearings fault,it needs a keyway and tighter tolerance inner race to shaft all sleds have their problems

 

This is the repair I had done,no need to revisit this again 👍🙋‍♂️

 

Yea, They all used the same shaft. ‘12-up

 

Ok, thanks.

 

Buddy put that one on his friend's sled and it definitely a nice piece.

 

all work same way tighten fit shaft to inner race

 

I’ll have to see if there is a dealer in the states that has one.

 

Barnofparts.com is a shop that makes parts primarily for Yamahas but this now includes the procross. My understanding is they came up with the idea that Precision EFI copied. I'd suggest reaching out to them.

Also yamaheater.com - they make a part that allows this bearing to be greased.

 

Barnofparts.com is a shop that makes parts primarily for Yamahas but this now includes the procross. My understanding is they came up with the idea that Precision EFI copied. I'd suggest reaching out to them.

Also yamaheater.com - they make a part that allows this bearing to be greased.

I would buy from Barn of Parts; they came up with the concept and so should get the money. I don't reward plagiarism

 

I personally feel the precision drive shaft saver is the best regardless if they were the first to make it or not.

 

I run the newest update of the BOP's saver; nice piece that is easy in/easy-out. When things are susceptible to corrosion I'll take a hex-head that I can heat and remove with a socket every time over an allen-type fastener although I hear he may have changed that since last year.

 

When do you suggest putting these on? I have a 600 with about 3000 miles. Was reading about it (the BOP model) but don't know if or when it's necessary.

 

Short answer, at zero miles.
3000 miles will either need a new shaft or a machined shaft.
If yours has spun, 99% chance it has, no form of wedge will help.
Here's one at around 10,000 miles.

Extreme case, but worth noting.

If you see a lot of rusty dust, around the brake caliper, that's a pretty good indicator the bearing has spun.
New shaft, new bearing, lock down to 40ftlbs, and maybe think about the bearing again at 9-10,000 miles.
Re-grease with Aeroshell 7, which is what Peer uses, every 4-5000 miles is not a bad idea either.

 

it was MAKING LOTS OF DUST thought i was faster than i am . it won't happen again both sleds have shaft savers a pin or keyway would also work . have to stop race from spinning on shaft .

 

What’s the damage at 1,000 miles? That’s what my wife’s zr-6000 has on it.

 

i did one on a 13 with 960 mi this summer . when i pulled caliper, cross marks or knurling was still visible on shaft .so i stuck it in . i would think your golden ! not at 5-6 thou . i was scared every year till dust got crazy then i knew i was going in to find out the issue . even gave her new pistons old ones look like new ring end gap was fine at 6000 mi .

 

And I’ve taken apart a dozen machines at 3–5k miles and only ever found one shaft damaged.

 

That's good to hear. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get to mine before riding this year.

 

The shaft expander kits only take a minute to install, I’m just saying….lotta good sleds out there without them

 

ya know sleds , cars,trucks throw money at em for durability, always saves your butt .

 

After looking at each unit, I picked the PEFI units. They looked a little cleaner in design, not to mention $40/ea cheaper. I'm all for upgrading the driveline for durability. Seemed like a simple answer for this particular issue.

 

Yeah I think I'll go ahead and order one of them.

 

I just ordered one for my 2014 ZR 8000. When I had the track out I noticed the slop in the bearing and my dealer knurled the area the where the bearing sits and that tightened it up. I haven't ridden it yet so hopefully putting the driveshaft saver in will tighten it up more and will be good. If I had known about this device I would have bought a new driveshaft with a saver and been done with this mess. My dealer claimed he had only seen a few loose driveshafts. Yeah and I have a bridge to sell.

 

I just took the left drive shaft bearing off of my new Tcat(0 miles), wiped the grease off the inner race/shaft mating area and smeared on some rtv silicone. Put it back together....ordered the BOP shaft saver too....what's another 140?

 

Not sure what you paid for your new tcat but now is the best time to put that saver on and like you said what's another 140.00 but you should not have to do it. This issue should have been fixed many years ago.

 

Yeah, great solution, but to lazy to tear down the new sled that far.

 

I have had to replace the shaft on both of mine, I have been thinking of getting one of these, the Precision EFI is A nice looking piece but they say it does not fit the Stroke shafts. I didn't know the inside Diameters were different.

 

I replaced both shafts, on our 2017 & 2018 ZR6000, fall of 2020.
The Barn of Parts shaft expanded just barely fit the new shafts. Had to use a brake hone to smooth the I.D. just a hair.
Fit was very nice and smooth.
New bearing & shaft got snug at less than 20ftlbs. Final torque to 40ftlbs.
Bad season last year. Only 2100 miles on one and 1200 miles on the other.
Both solid with no dust, wobble, tunnel flex, or brake pulse.
By Stroke shafts, if you mean 4 stroke shafts, they should be the same.
At least my past 2014 XF7000 was.

 

Just an observation,the repair mentioned in thread #32 was less than the cost of a new shaft.that’s if you ship it to dealer for repair.Including a upgraded bearing,with the slotted inner race.The thought of not having to revisit this issue was worth it ,if keeping the sled long term.Good luck,happy new year 🎉🎉

 

Precision EFI Siad they don't fit 2 Stroke shafts, I don't have a 4 stroke shaft handy to verify.

 

The PEFI website is saying it’s specifically made for 998T sleds 9000 series.

Maintenance Kit - 998T

Perfect time to do your maintenance on your sleds ! Kit 1: Drive Shaft Saver & Chain case skate Kit 2: Drive Shaft Saver , Chain Case Skate , Upgraded Front Axle Chain Case kit : HD Tensionner w/ Upgraded Skate , HD Gear Bushing , Oil Tank Gasket Ultimate Maintenance & Reliability Kit: HD...

precisionefi.com