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Clutch Alignment Tool

15K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  northstarrick  
#1 ·
First, I do not own or have I used a clutch alignment tool. Just wondering if one is better than another. Is there a better clutch alignment tool for AXYS?
 
#11 ·
What is the detriment to floating the clutch say another .060 in either direction and making sure it has room to center properly?

I have never understood why if a floating secondary is ok .....we dont give them room to float and make sure that it can get to where it wants to be.

I am asking here as I dont know and there may be a good reason
 
#19 ·
What is the detriment to floating the clutch say another .060 in either direction and making sure it has room to center properly?

I have never understood why if a floating secondary is ok .....we dont give them room to float and make sure that it can get to where it wants to be.

I am asking here as I dont know and there may be a good reason
After talking to a number of experts, and running large float on my own sleds, I do not know of any problem caused by extra float on the secondary.

It may cause some concern for people who see that their secondary clutch appears "loose". Make sure the shaft that the secondary slides on, is lightly greased to prevent rust and corrosion.
 
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#12 ·
I adjusted both outward and inward float. They were off from the factory. This is huge to check as it reduces heat and extends belt life. Both sleds have total float of ~.120." For a guy running OEM belt, the stock tool will work. Get yourself some extra shims of various sizes for both the bearing side and bolt.
 
#18 ·
If your clutch offset is way out of spec I would look at the following before adjusting the motor.
Make sure primary clutch is clean.
Make sure alignment tool is sitting in primary correctly. (Both edges capture the outside diameter and the angled back side sitting against the movable side of the primary).
Put your left hand on center of tool in primary to make sure it stays sitting square.
If the alignment tool is touching the secondary on the left side you want to make sure it is not adding “spring” to the tool giving you a false reading on the right side of the secondary.
You can do this by subtracting one washer behind the secondary, measure it and then put the tool back minus that washer and see if the clearance you had change by the same amount.
Rotate your primary clutch and retake your measurements. This will eliminate your crankshaft not being “true”.
Rotate your secondary and take measurements. I have seen them not perfectly true.
If all of the above seems fine I would then adjust the motor.
 
#20 ·
Good advice Ninja. I went down in offset bushings until I had barely a gap at the front of the Secondary. Ended up with just 0.040" gap at the rear rather then 0.068". I left the same float washers so my float is now around 0.090". I didn't see change at all by rotating the clutches. Much more satisfied with the set-up now but the offset bushing stack is now only 0.095" which is less that the thick washer that is recommended. I guess that's the price for not having electric start.
 
#21 ·
Good advice Ninja. I went down in offset bushings until I had barely a gap at the front of the Secondary. Ended up with just 0.040" gap at the rear rather then 0.068". I left the same float washers so my float is now around 0.090". I didn't see change at all by rotating the clutches. Much more satisfied with the set-up now but the offset bushing stack is now only 0.095" which is less that the thick washer that is recommended. I guess that's the price for not having electric start.
The recommended minimum spacer is 12 gauge. That's .059", not .150" as stated in parenthesis in the shop manual. The concern is that at full shift, the secondary inner sheave doesn't rub against the tunnel or other protrusions. With stock 22/37 gearing, the secondary won't reach full opening until around 120 + mph. Besides, it naturally will tend to float back outwards after 1:1 ratio if secondary is floated.

You can manually open the secondary using a long bolt instead of the L-shaped belt removal tool if you want to verify this.
 

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#22 ·
we remove all the spacers/washers from behind the driven clutch. leaving one .060 on the shaft. leave all the washers under the outer bolt. no belt heat at all.

our pro stock 600 we have .250 float. the engagement is just under 7000 rpm. and turns 10,500 at full shift. you can keep your hand on the drive or driven after a 500' run. any float under this it gets hot. there is no such thing as to much float. and the polaris manual is wrong. @ .060 total float you get belt/clutch heat that shouldn't be there?