Can’t answer the breakin question but I’ve run Mystik in my 600 Axys for the last 5 years or so with no issues whatsoever including 150 race miles at Pine Lake last year. Just a bit under 7000 miles on it and going strong!

 

Just ride it like you normally would. Don't be afraid to hit it full throttle. The harder you break them in the better they run.

Oh and mystic is fantastic oil. I've been running it for over a decade in most all my sleds. No worries whatsoever and you can't beat the price!

 

Did my research on mystic jt4 full synthetic… 5500 miles on my 22(that i didn’t get until winter was over!) runs great. 128psi in both sides still. It gets warmed up properly and not babied !

 

Polaris uses a extremely hard cylinder coating. If broken in easily it will take forever to get good ring seal. Don't baby it.

Put 4000 miles on Mystik last year. No complaints. Like it much better then VES and and the price point is great.

 

Best way to break in those engines is with a conventional 2 stroke dino oil ridden with short wide open bursts. Earlier you can seat those rings, the less future blow-by.

 

Read this:
What injector oil to use for breakin on a new POLARIS 850 2-STROKE?

 

They have been posting the same breakin recommendations for many years on all their 2 stroke engines ever since the polaris blue oil was used. Its mostly to avoid any warranty claims.

 

Ran whatever was in the oil tank when I bought it, Mytsik ever since. ‘23 850 XCR.

I‘ve run Mystik in my sleds for years. Best oil for the money IMO.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. $70 a gallon for Polaris or ski doo oil is way more expensive than 3 gallons for the same price with Mystik

 

Current Cat Break in timeframe...They are still claiming serious engine damage can occur if you dont run the factory C-Tech2 oil...lol


The break-in period occurs in two stages. Stage One
occurs during the first 18 minutes of a new engine's run
time where the ECM will provide additional fuel and oil
to the engine. Stage Two occurs after the completion of
Stage One. However, Stage Two still provides additional
fuel and oil to the engine for the remainder of 5.7 hours.
This additional fuel and oil is less than the amount added
during Stage One.
Premixing fuel and oil during the break in period is not
required. Due to the oil delivery control strategy of the
electronic oil pump, the oil pump will automatically
compensate and deliver a richer fuel-oil ratio during the
engine break-in period.

 

Unfortunately that doesn't say how to manage the flipper which is more crucial to good ring seating.

 

yup and DTR also had a sled that was low on compression and power. reason it was run on a stand at idle and barely above idle like 20 times before ridden. ring seal was why. so yup be careful who you listen too here. all of my sleds were driven about 40 miles. then held to the handle bar for 3000' plus. all showed better then most claim on here for compression and very good leak down. and the bonus all were very fast. the rings need to seat quick. prolonging that and you will have a turd. proven many times. ever see how a race dirt bike is broken in?

 

I don’t typically break things in by being soft on it. Everything I’ve ever owned that got beat on from the beginning was better than softer break ins. Sleds, dirt bikes 4 wheelers etc. I was more curious about Mystik being a good oil or a bad oil. And what the suggested break in time is for these sleds. As mentioned the ski doo break in last for several hundred miles. Warranty still on our doo’s so I’ll run their oil in them for the time being. Just checking to see how it goes on the Polaris side.

 

We had several new sled engines over the years that owners complained about poor performance. When they showed up, all had lower than average compression, plus made about 10 hp less than they should have on our dyno. Their owners were pissed complaining how they babied the throttle for several hundred miles during the first trip out. All of them used polaris ves synthetic oils. We ended up re-ringing them, then breaking them in hard with the pinkish/orange spectro dino oil. Compression came back to normal with very good hp numbers.

 

Exactly!!!

 

Xhardcorerider. So beat it like a rented mule is what you’re saying. What type of oil do you use now if you don’t mind me asking.

 

With a new engine, its short wide open bursts for the 1st tankful, along with varying the throttle during the first ride. I've already posted above we've used polaris blue, or spectro dino oils for initial breakin, later switching to spectro syn-sno snowmobile oil. Guys I know here are using it in their axys 800 sleds for years with zero issues, but run whatever you want.....there isn't any oil police that are going to write you up.

 

So I have always been a fan of breaking them in hard. My question is how soon do some of you like before you you start giving it some WOT bursts.

 

I'm usually pretty easy on the flipper for the first 15 miles or so. After that some WOT pulls to 60 or 70 fairly often. After the first tank I ran them as hard as I want.

 

Would it be a bad idea to before the first trip, use a track stand and break it in while on the stand for let's say 5 minutes. Giving the throttle several quick burst of full throttle followed by idle, alternating the two. What do you guys say? Where I ride I have at least 15 minutes drive to get to areas where I can hold it to the bar.

 

We run new engines, or freshly rebuilt ones for short bursts on a dyno, or out in the field always under load. You need to build cylinder pressure for good ring seating. Not a great idea to do this on a track stand when at wide open throttle...at the least for safety reasons.

 

If the first hour or so of riding is in a limited speed area, the operator can give full throttle bursts along with the brake, to limit actual acceleration.

Owners manual advice is on page 137 of the MY26 flatland 2 stroke owners manual.

Excessive heat build-up during the first three hours of operation will damage close-fitted engine parts. Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for extended periods during the first three hours of use. Vary the throttle openings and vehicle speeds to reduce friction on all close-fitting machined parts, allowing them to break in slowly without damage.

Automatic engine break-in timers are based on
engine run time above 3,500 rpm.

Fuel injectors 2% additional fuel for 2 hours.
Engine oil pump enrichment 15% additional oil for 10 hours.

 

If the first hour or so of riding is in a limited speed area, the operator can give full throttle bursts along with the brake, to limit actual acceleration.

A groomers nightmare!

 

I'm usually pretty easy on the flipper for the first 15 miles or so. After that some WOT pulls to 60 or 70 fairly often. After the first tank I ran them as hard as I want.

I was told that the most important thing during break in is no constant speed. The rest doesn't matter as much.

Owners manual advice is on page 137 of the MY26 flatland 2 stroke owners manual.

Excessive heat build-up during the first three hours of operation will damage close-fitted engine parts. Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for extended periods during the first three hours of use. Vary the throttle openings and vehicle speeds to reduce friction on all close-fitting machined parts, allowing them to break in slowly without damage.

Exactly this. Not the same speed for extended periods and vary it.

 

I don't want to turn this question into an oil war but does it really matter what oil we use for break-in or is it more about seating the rings by throttle usage. I'm talking using full synthetic vs a semi or non synthetic.

 

I don't want to turn this question into an oil war but does it really matter what oil we use for break-in or is it more about seating the rings by throttle usage. I'm talking using synthetic vs a semi or non synthetic.

Rings will eventually seat using a 100% synthetic, but usually long term performance isn't quite as good. Semi synthetic is ok imo. We have a rule here....baby the flipper, and you'll end up with a turd.

 

The newer Polaris engines all use Nicasil cylinder coating designed to last a long time. And use single rings on the pistons.
As I stated earlier, I ran my new 2015 Polaris 800 from day 1 on VES synthetic. It did NOT use one drop of DINO oil. I performed periodic compression and leakdown tests. The engine did take a few hundred miles of trail riding using numerous short bursts of WOT to break the rings in and make decent power. During that time, I raced my sled against many others with great results. I also used a Gtech accelerometer to log performance. I documented all of this in a special thread I started on HCS to help refute some of the false predictions spouted on here like this one.

Additionally, DTR mentioned how to break these newer Polaris engines in in their testing of these engines and showed the gradual increase in power as a result. In my experience, synthetic oil was at least as good as any other oil and in some cases, much better. One of my riding buddies on our first ride had the dealer drain all synthetic oil and replace it with Legend semi-synthetic Oil in his new Pro-S 800. We raced many times and it showed no advantage whatsoever. In fact, my sled was slightly faster. But, he later experienced a severe drop in performance due to other causes and finally sold it. What may have worked in older Polaris engines with cast iron bores and double ring pistons isn't necessarily the answer today.

 

The newer Polaris engines all use Nicasil cylinder coating designed to last a long time. And use single rings on the pistons.
As I stated earlier, I ran my new 2015 Polaris 800 from day 1 on VES synthetic. It did NOT use one drop of DINO oil. I performed periodic compression and leakdown tests. The engine did take a few hundred miles of trail riding using numerous short bursts of WOT to break the rings in and make decent power. During that time, I raced my sled against many others with great results. I also used a Gtech accelerometer to log performance. I documented all of this in a special thread I started on HCS to help refute some of the false predictions spouted on here like this one.

Additionally, DTR mentioned how to break these newer Polaris engines in in their testing of these engines and showed the gradual increase in power as a result. In my experience, synthetic oil was at least as good as any other oil and in some cases, much better. One of my riding buddies on our first ride had the dealer drain all synthetic oil and replace it with Legend semi-synthetic Oil in his new Pro-S 800. We raced many times and it showed no advantage whatsoever. In fact, my sled was slightly faster. But, he later experienced a severe drop in performance due to other causes and finally sold it. What may have worked in older Polaris engines with cast iron bores and double ring pistons isn't necessarily the answer today.

Well If I learned anything here...nothing beats your sleds, their always faster broken in with synthetic oil .
I always thought he who does their homework tuning a sled is usually faster.

 

If it has around 200 miles then it should already be broken in. If was gently used then I would run the snot out of it immediately hope the rings seal up. Gently used is not what you want for the first couple hundred miles.
When I rebuilt my 23 Assault that had the aftermarket turbo on it, I warmed it up on the track stand then took it to the lake. There was zero snow on the ice, I ran it easy down a 1/4 mile, came back, let it cool. I did that a couple few times and then got on it hard a couple passes, 200 plus hp. After that I took it on a trip, drove it hard again. 100 miles later leak down was 2 percent. It was run on Polaris oil. They need to be broke in hard.

 

It states that the advanced version has the PROPERTIES of Synthetic. Legend calls it a HYBRID.

 

water has some of the PROPERTIES of Synthetic oil...
It is liquid at room temperature.
it is translucent.
It has good heat transfer capabilities.
It is somewhat viscous.
It provides some lubrication capability.

 

I was thinking the same thing but resisted.

 

It states that the advanced version has the PROPERTIES of Synthetic. Legend calls it a HYBRID.

One of my riding buddies on our first ride had the dealer drain all synthetic oil and replace it with Legend semi-synthetic Oil in his new Pro-S 800.

Whoopsies...

 

What type of oil does Polaris validate their engines with🤔.

 

The ones that allow you to obtain 21 MPG?

 

imo mineral based doesn't mean 100% mineral, but indeed mixed with synthetic. Just based on a mineral oil, so not a full synthetic.

But lets ask @ForaFrank...
@ForaFrank is Legend oil full synthetic, semi-synthetic or non-synthetic?