In the harness, in the black bag just above the voltage regulator, there is a plug labeled ECM PWR. An orange wire (positive) and a brown wire (neg) run to this plug. Connect a fully charged 12v battery to this and it will power up the ECM. You can then back-probe the TPS. I used sharpened paper clips to back-probe and a digital meter. Loosen the throttle cable all the way, you might even want to disconnect it from the throttle body. Now, back off the idle adjustment screw until it no longer touches the adjustment lever. Blip the throttle lever a few times. Your throttle blades should now be completely closed and you are ready to make the first adjustment.
There are 3 wires at the TPS. Red/White is the supply voltage, Blue is the signal to the ECM and the Black/Dark Blue is ground. Hooking up the meter to the Red/White and the Black/Dark Blue will get you the sensor voltage. It should be very close to 5v. Mine was 5.02v. Switching your probe from the Red/White to the Blue will get you to your readings for adjustment. For your first reading you want to see .700v. This is very important. If it isn't at .700v you need to loosen the screws on the TPS and rotate it until you get it there. Tighten the screws, making sure your setting doesn't change. Blip the throttle a few time and make sure it returns to the same voltage. If all is well at this point you can now set the throttle opening. The recommended setting is .930v-.950v. I set mine in the middle, .940v. You need to adjust the idle screw to set this. It's a bit tricky because as you tighten the lock nut on the adjustment screw the setting will change. Once set, blip the throttle a few times and make sure the setting stays the same. Adjust your cable and you're done. Also, I put a dab of clear silicone over the probe holes on the TPS to keep moisture out.
I made my own power-up cable from some 18ga. wire and a couple of bigger alligator clamps. I bared 1/4" on the other end and gave the ends a touch of solder for plugging into the ECM PWR connector. One thing I did notice was that, having electric start and using the sled battery to power-up, I only had to use the positive side of my harness at the ECM PWR connector. The battery neg and the ECM ground are connected through the chassis so, no need to use the neg side of my harness but, you will have to hook it up without ES or if you use a battery besides the one in the sled.
As for the meter, use the best one you can afford. I see you are an electrician so, you probably have a good one already. I have a couple of DVM's for servicing tube guitar amps and my most expensive one was under $100 and it worked fine.
This is how I did mine and it runs great.