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another problem with so much heat under the f1100T

5.7K views 52 replies 19 participants last post by  catf1000s/p  
#1 · (Edited)
Think of this, your exhaust temp coming out of the motor is around 1200 degrees right, look at these pictures of where all the heat comes from under the hood.
pipes uncovered, muffler shield not blocking enough heat from mounting brackets on stock mufflers and many other mufflers your buying have no heat shields right.
Oil lines are right close to the stock muffler brackets on the bottom, that is not very good, it is heating up oil in the aluminum tubes being feed to the motor.
There is only and only one way to get most of this heat out= venting the side panel on the muffler side will help but is not the total fix, when you are at a gas station or road crossings and such and not moving fast, the heat keeps heating up the clutches and belt, then when you get a cross the roads, the first thing you do is wot. the belt is to hot by then, either you have to go slow then pick up speed so the vents can do there real job by cooling the clutches and belt off.

either you have to cover all these parts in these pictures of naked pipes and seal off the mounting brackets with silicone and such.

stage 1 option kit will be made to cover all these pipes.

stage 2 option kit would be to install a 12 volt fan behind the vent that i am showing you with a pointer where to install it, these kits will be for sale soon.

I have tested all temps on both the 4 stroke NA's and turboed sleds and the 800's, its way to hot under these hoods for any belt to last very long if running them like you stole it and going slow is to much of a problem also, these are great sleds cat gave us an with a little fine tuning you get more bang for you buck and less belt problems.

By the way, the flex pipe is hitting the cross member behind it, check it out, this sled has 500 miles on it.

I know how hot it takes to melt wire loom== i had some over my y pipe on my 800 and it melted it an it never touched it, it was 4" away and melted
Catf1000s/p
Frank
 

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#5 ·
do you really want to drag all the heat over the belt? we have been fighting these turbo sleds all winter, his is vented on the clutch side on the back and it made no difference, he has over 4000 miles and he has had one hell of a winter fighting with belts because of the heat, the heat has to go out the other side or the belt problem will never be over and his is stock.

That muffler and pipe heat needs to be addressed and sent out fast as possible through the muffler side, we are talking like 1000 degrees here coming off these pipes
 
#7 · (Edited)
I remember that my 2009 ski doo xp 800 had a plastic shield between the muffler side and engine bay, an attempt to reduce heat. We know heat is the enemy for belt life, but we know it has to be more than that on these 2012 ACs,something is moving and causing perfect alignment to be not perfect. Why are helixes breaking..and what is Cat doing about that for 2013? What will AC do to answer belt issues on the 2013, do we know yet? No 2013 for me until I get a sensible answer from AC. The skid frame and handling are also issues. Just looked at the inside of a 800 tunnel and the paint and some rivets are worn off on both sides from the track rubbing both sides. Why does the hi fax wear out on the outside rear? Hi fax are suppossed to wear at the bottom..not the sides. I can accept some issues but these sleds have way too many for a well tested??? sled. I have to laugh at some comments that simplify the belt issues,{your alignment must be wrong} etc. I was spot on and had many failures, I pull belts off when the cord comes out, that is usually within 400 miles.
 
#11 ·
Why wouldn't you want to wrap the exhaust with heat wrap? I've built a few turboed cars and that dramatically reduced engine bay temps. Wouldn't doing that and adding venting keep the under hood temps down without adding the fan?

The heat wrap is pretty cheap and works great in the applications I have used it imo

I don't have a cat or anything I just have been following these threads and they all seem like great fixes, keep up the good work!
 
#39 ·
Why wouldn't you want to wrap the exhaust with heat wrap? I've built a few turboed cars and that dramatically reduced engine bay temps. Wouldn't doing that and adding venting keep the under hood temps down without adding the fan?

The heat wrap is pretty cheap and works great in the applications I have used it imo

I don't have a cat or anything I just have been following these threads and they all seem like great fixes, keep up the good work!
i was thinking the same thing of wrapping the pipe with heat wrap on my turbo, seems though that no one wants to talk about that solution because it's cheap and there is no money to be made by a fabricator. Cat knew there was lots of heat from the manifold (if you look at it after running it's cherry red) and the heat it radiates has to go somewhere i.e. both sides under the hood of the sled. we notice it more on the clutch side because we expect high heat on the exhaust but not the PTO side. i believe if the manifold was ceramic coated it would drop the heat at the clutch significantly.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Well aren't you just a bad ass! It has ZERO to do with how they're ridden. What part of multiple mile plus WOT runs and chugging through 5 ' of powder didn't you understand?

Does anyone have an answer to my question. Greensmob obviously doesn't.
 
#20 ·
Sorry but I am with wolfie on this one. 2600 miles on ORIGINAL belt, dont ride like your dad either:roflmao: finished up the season boondockin goat paths in Da UP, riding snow that was like mashed PO TA TOES. 52 degree air temp, beleave that Turbo was SMOKIN HOT, along with the clutches. Gotta be some reason it holds up. Just noticed I got the same sled as wolfie too.
 
#25 ·
Sorry but I am with wolfie on this one. 2600 miles on ORIGINAL belt, dont ride like your dad either:roflmao: finished up the season boondockin goat paths in Da UP, riding snow that was like mashed PO TA TOES. 52 degree air temp, beleave that Turbo was SMOKIN HOT, along with the clutches. Gotta be some reason it holds up. Just noticed I got the same sled as wolfie too.
again, you are talking about riding in mash potato's, that is not putting a big enough load on you drive train and clutches, lets here how many guys are riding really really hardpack trails with studs and what track you have.

lets hear how many miles you do in a stretch and what kind of trail system you ride.
thanks
 
#38 ·
Not a cat guy here , but love anything mechanical . Has anyone done any comparison testing to look for inconsistancies in the belts themselves ? Not that anyone wants to destroy a new belt but it is a major variable here I think . I gather the shafts are hollow , has the wall thickness been compared between some of the broken shafts ? The most stress your driveline components will see is when a spinning track meets hard traction . Deep powder loads definately loads the drivetrain up but it is a smooth even loading IMO . There is a reason for mountain sleds having lower gearing . Has anyone thought of trying to get realtime video somehow of the drivetrain while in real world riding conditions ? Not easy I know but I have read of the flexing of the jackshaft putting stuff out of alignment , it would be a huge asset if one could actually see this stuff happening .
 
#47 ·
My dealer is one of the best in the West. They know what they are dong and do ti well. Multiple accolades. I have no issue with their setup ability and go over everything myself to be sure. Never had an issue with dealer prep!

I have owned and raced several Cats throughout my life. Did a lot of my own clutching. Was always able to clutch out heat, increase efficiency, win races. I ride the back country and ride hard. Have NEVER blown a belt in my life!!!!!!!!

No matter what I look at, no matter the tricks I apply to this sled, the heat is ALWAYS there and is at unacceptable levels. There is far, far more going on with clutching and alignment that even Cat itself is currently trying to figure out.

I just want my sled fixed and fixed right! Get the clutching, shaft, case issues figured out and it would be a fantastic sled.
 
#52 ·
i have been dealing with different cutter to make them up now, i have someone locked in on a price and i'm in line for them to be made up, i had to weed out the riff raft companys to keep the price down.

So at this point, i'm in line at the cutters to make them up beautiful.

Belanger Racing
catf1000s/p
Frank
 
#53 · (Edited)
another heat issue delt with

This is the muffler and the add ons to stop heat from escaping, i don't have pictures of the other 3 bad spots around the brackets that have been delt with like this fill in piece, my phone is burnning up until tomorrow. but you get the idea from this one prototype cover, all the brackets have gotten the same treatment, all prototypes done and ready for the cutters.

I am very into detail on all this heat issue, I will not miss anything, these turbo's sleds will be so cold they might not know how to run and the belts/clutches will not know what to do when being this cold:fistpump2: oh, i know what will happen, the freaking belts will last for 10k miles the way they are surpose to, watch out cat!! the turbo guys might not need a belt for years:fistpump2:
I have a friend coming over right now with another picture phone, will post other pictures

Belanger Racing
 

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