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Adding vents to an enclosed trailer

39K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  jethroxlt  
#1 ·
So I upgraded my trailer last fall and now I only have a roof vent. I can't keep that open because my backyard is extremely windy and usually blows back to front as the trailer sits. I'm worried that the roof vent will get ripped off if I leave it open, not to mention rain and snow getting inside. I've looked at some vents to add, but I'm not sure how to cut holes in the side panels of the trailer. It's quite possible I'm over thinking this, so I figured I'd do a little homework before making a mess. Who's done this successfully and how?

Thanks
E

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#2 · (Edited)
I was sort of in your shoes last yr when I wanted to add trailer vents to my trailer walls
I went with salem vents, plastic one's
were rather cheap but are what they are!
I was over thinking things about how to make the holes, would things tear or ??? and what to use to mkae them
I talked to a few folks, and they all sort of recommended an Air nibbler to make the cut outs
then talked to a few folks that work at a near me Haulmark trailer MFG, and they said just use a hole saw!
I bought a GOOD hole saw (milwaukee brand was like 30+ bucks with bit ??
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9637/202327756

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...3-8-in-Quick-Change-Large-Hole-Saw-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264




NOW< before I drilled the holes in MINE< I added some walls to the inside of my trailer,to have a finished inside, as didn;t have any before
and I placed some thick plastic I had on hand that worked perfectly to fill the gap between my wall framing and new walls I added, so things were flush tight against the trailers skin for me
and I just measured where I wanted the vents on outside, and making sure not to hit any framing
and I drilled from the outside IN
I got super clean cut holes right thru everything, sealed things with good all weather caulking, and was done deal

the vents I used are designed so the one up front is placed up HIGH, on one side of trailer, and facing forward so when towing, you get air forced into trailer and then the back one is placed on opposite side , on the lower level of trailer about 2 ft off the floor facing rearwards, so air in side trailer can flow out, when towing!
this is how there designed to work from all I have read on them

they worked as expected, but honestly if I was parking sleds in a trailer for storage over a summer, I would want the roof vent opened as well, as these side wall ventsd are SMALL, and heat rises
so the roof is where you want a vent when storing sleds in a trailer IMO!
I would just fix it so it cannot be blown open or closed some how, build a bracket that holds it in place!
 
#3 ·
here are some pic's of the one's I added

if your walls are not finished, you will need something in the inside to screw the vents to
some folks just add a piece of plywood where the vents will be

and that was why I added a filler between the framing studs and the wall material I added (sheets of PVC) so the screws that hold vents on have some thing to be screwed into!
 

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#6 ·
my answer is yes and NO!
the side vents do help add air, but NOT very much when parked, more so when towing!, as there designed to work when towing more than sitting!

here is MY 2 cents on condemnation dripping from the ceiling down
1.) DON"T put sleds in trailer HOT and then close trailer up, your trapping heat in a cold area as your making matter's worse!
leave doors on trailer open till sleds are cold, or let sleds cool off outside then restart when cold and put in trailer

YES not always a possible deal if heading back to truck and want to get traveling, but it will helps TON on condensation doing this

2.) IMO the best thing you can do to STOP condensation dripping down is to insulate the ceiling, and I would think a GOOD spray on insulation would be the best option, (home depot/Lowes rents them you can most likely do the whole trailer pretty fair priced if one wanted to)
as it would bond tightly to the ceiling material and leave no space for it to form at! creating a barrier from it!


3.) for kicks I added some 1/2 inch sheet foam insulation, I fitted between the roof framing(unfinished roof/ceiling)
and I just did so over my shelf to keep things on it dry, or tried to, and it DID work, and was going to maybe try doing so thru the whole trailer , but I sold trailer a few weeks back now

some folks have dine very well with adding in floor vents to help trailers breathe when parked, which again, the MORE venting you have the better off you will be
but putting HOT sleds in a cold trailer, is the biggest cause to it, all the more so if there is snow on top of the trailer
 
#5 ·
Good question. I'm looking at the same vents. My last trailer had larger side vents. It also had a finished ceiling. I couldn't believe how much condensation I had this year. I don't even remember my old clamshell having this much.

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#7 ·
I put MaxAir Vents https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-503-15-00-933066-White-Cover/dp/B000UUMM6K/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=77721779414931&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=rv+air+vent+cover+replacement&qid=1555601115&s=gateway&sr=8-3 on the roof style vents. I leave the roof air vent open all summer with no rain getting in. I do close them in the winter not sure if snow dust would get in during windy days. Even a little snow dust would be better then a dripping roof.

The MaxAir covers are like insurance from hail damaging the roof vent.
 
#18 · (Edited)
MaxxAir II is a much better vent cover for a little more money, you get better protection from rain & more air flow.
For winter use, I replaced the plastic framed roof vents with metal framed ones after having a couple Crack.
I do like those solar vents too!
 
#9 ·
Now, that sounds interesting. Sounds like a great idea for the off time when the trailer is sitting. Have a trailer with two way side wall vents. Honestly, have no idea what is the common term for those vents. Anyhow, the trailer doesn't have a roof vent. Thinking about adding something just to get a little cross flow.


BTW, to the OP. I have cut quite a few holes in finished sheet metal with a simple jigsaw and good blade. I do put tape over the finished surface around the cut. It helps keep the metal bits from scratching. Works fine with a good blade and plenty of tape.
 
#20 ·
I doubt it would be any better than standard wall vents,(and be rather ugly to boot mounted like that!)
plus your going to battle leaks more on it as won;t be protected from water entry as well, due to its designed to be mounted on the flat level roof!

the whole point of adding to the roof, is heat rises!, so having a vent at the highest point in trailer, should dissipate it the best!