My brother is looking at a 23 boost. Are the 23s okay?? Anything to look for or stay away from?
23 boost reliability??
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Mwags1224
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Possibly in break in mode before ?
I am not aware of anything that changes the temperature at which the red cold engine bar goes off.
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I wiped the inside of the air box and cloth came out clean, no oil in any lower conner found. Big difference is my plug insulators were chocolate brown ie coffee with 1/2 a cream and know (new plugs) are light tan color with TRS.
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shouldn't be as it had over 4500 when I added the TRS.
All the Trs valve is doing is sealing the boost box so your drawing outside cold air under boost .
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I do have a ? for you, when you update the 23 to the 24/25 ECU does this improve high end rpm engine run ability?
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14,705 Posts
the TRS valve is not letting any boost presure leak out of the air box. it works regaurdless of what others say. would make sense your plugs look good now. it would be rich if boost presure leaks. we tested this with smoke. the stock reed in the air doesn't seal well at sea level boost presure of 3 lbs.
I'd recommend that you start a thread in an appropriate forum, and include the exact model of snowmobile having this problem.
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Not sure about 523953 fmi 5 but possibly start with a wastegate relearn and go from there.
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Yes, but it also allows the airbox to draw atmospheric air directly without the restriction of the turbo compressor when it hasn't spooled up enough to make boost.
If the stock airbox reed works well enough to do that, you don't gain much, if anything, from the TRS valve. A slight leak under boost is easily made up by the turbo. But, a huge leak would reduce turbo efficiency and even capacity.
You will not likely see this valve used on a higher boost 2 or 4 stroke turbo application because a BOV does a similar task. In fact, a big BOV would do the same job on a low boost application like the BOOST. I use a BOV on many custom turbo set ups. Here's one attached to the airbox on my twin turbo 69 Roadrunner.
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I did both relearns and something isn't right, after a perfect 91 mile ride , it never had it's 2200 plus strong idle and sounds like its running on 1 1/2 sparkplug's , valves used to open at 6000 now 6700. worked perfect after cleaning but did have a strange hangup up a couple times when testing on the bench. put it all together with new plugs worked great until ride home. Still screams past 6700 to 8200. it did have a hunting rpm from 4200 to4500, almost like bouncing off a rev limiter good at 4000 rpm and good after 4600 rpm. seems like tps. dash never showed any codes found them with my slp tuner. Someone else mentioned the same rpm thing in the same range I wonder if they figured it out
Make sure your voltage is above 12.6 volts or the relearns may not take , also when doing relearns make sure sled is up to operating temp .
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927 Posts
I was 12.8 on the battery but sled was only room temperature
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04prox2 code523949 fmi 7-is for boost actuator learn ck failure, this is the EcU detecting wastegate position voltage and fault is issued if the open or closed position is to far out of range. I expect will need the Polaris DW.
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927 Posts
no nothing off all original but going to have to deal with the bad reeds first..man these are put together like shit. found multiple chaffed wire harnesses
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14,705 Posts
this is the new polaris. gone backwards.
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