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Plain and simple, there is more stuff that can go wrong with Boost sleds. Like mentioned, pto seals and auxiliary injector harness issues seem to be happening. The hard parts in the engine are very strong.

7850 shes pulling timing unless your running 100 plus octane or some kind of octane boost .....
With either the 24 or 25 flash I have yet to data log any timing being pulled or knock running wot at 7500-8000+ using 91 non eth at normal running temps. I think that was a 23 flash thing where they would deto pulling them down. The 25 flash does have less timing in that area vs the 24.
 
Plain and simple, there is more stuff that can go wrong with Boost sleds. Like mentioned, pto seals and auxiliary injector harness issues seem to be happening. The hard parts in the engine are very strong.


With either the 24 or 25 flash I have yet to data log any timing being pulled or knock running wot at 7500-8000+ using 91 non eth at normal running temps. I think that was a 23 flash thing where they would deto pulling them down. The 25 flash does have less timing in that area vs the 24.
Mine will go into DET at 7800 ever time without boost in the tank
 
with the trs valve you are seeing minor det. you will need to run better fuel. that's your low rpm issue. i have a whole bunch of boost with these. and no one is beating them across the lake. stock vs. stock. i have a whole bunch of very satified boost owners.
 
Just over 5000 miles on mine no problems up to this Saturday changed the stock reed power flow valve to the new TRS ran like a dream less smoke on start up and warm up and 20 to 50 mph but noticed a hesitation around 79 mph and up and could only get 113 mph at 7850 rpm, always get 120 ish and 8250 rpm, is it possible the o2 sensor needs to be replaced and the sled was detecting a lean or detonation and retarded the timing when I was over 79 mph ? any thoughts on this. Has any one had any problems when swapping to the new TRS power flow valve?
There is no O2 sensor on a stock Polaris Boost snowmobile.

It has EGT sensors, coolant temp. sensors, intake air & boost box temp. & pressure (TMAP) sensors, Throttle Position Sensors (TPS), Fuel pressure & Fuel temperature and DET sensors, that when faulty, can mislead the ECU software into reducing power.

Some sensor faults will generate DTC codes from the ECU. Others may not produce any codes.
 
So if there isn't any O2 sensor can the Boost auto learn the air/fuel ratio or is it preset by mapping and needs to be adjusted when adding the TRS valve? I believe mine is running super lean. Almost no smoke on start up and warm up to day, ran it in the garage after cleaning the power valves that were so gummed up took 1 hr to wiggle out. Watched my RPM and boost, Boost was very erratic, and R's at WOT 7600,this tells my boost problem and timing is retarded, so know leaning towards map sensor, or boost control solenoid?/ , or spring rod to the waste gate?? any ideas any one.
 
The ECU does not have any automatic learning as far as air/fuel mixture. It has a lot of sensor inputs that guide the ECU in mapping the interplay of the two pair of fuel injectors and boost pressure. But if it is lean or has Detonation or high exhaust temperatures, in a certain set of circumstances, if that similar set of circumstances occurs again, it will do the same thing. It does not LEARN / auto adjust.
 
I,m back happy as ever, after cleaning jammed power valves brought to my dealer told what I said above and asked if he could do a relearn on the waste gate and the power valves. they connected D/wrench and relearned, did a stand run up got 8400 said could to go charged me 62 CND (40 us). took her out for ck ride running the best it has ever run as first time with the TRS valve plus added aggressive snow trackers WOW what a difference now rails and goes like a formula 1. lessen learned CLEAN POWERVALVES every 2ooo miles or when you change your plugs LOL.. Funny thing is when the Sled was in limp mode ( be for I realized ) a DOO 850 buddy begged me to let him have a go on the boost, he got off and told his other doo buddies that this was a great sled with huge power not sure if I should let him try it know. OH almost forgot service report shows 37 trys that the EV Command tried to achieve position and timed out. Code P3037 and P3036
 
May have found my backfiring issue 2000 miles on these plugs. Gotta like the orange boostane crust. pretty sure exhaust valves need a cleaning
 
Starting with MY25, Polaris has recommended for ALL the Patriot Liquid cooled engines:


For those who want solid terminal BPR8ES spark plugs without the screw-off terminal nut, order NGK# 95521
NGK.com #95521 BPR8ES spark plug
this is a little hotter spark plug: BPR8ES. It is Polaris part# 3024357. Some were having plug fouling problems, during breakin.

I'm sure the incomplete combustion, contributed to the dirty exhaust valves.
 
Starting with MY25, Polaris has recommended for ALL the Patriot Liquid cooled engines:


For those who want solid terminal BPR8ES spark plugs without the screw-off terminal nut, order NGK# 95521
NGK.com #95521 BPR8ES spark plug
this is a little colder spark plug: BPR8ES. It is Polaris part# 3024357

I'm sure the incomplete combustion, contributed to the dirty exhaust valves.
Just a side note most tunes out there are/were developed on the 23/24 base tune with BPR9ES .
 
Just fyi if you’re using boostane change plugs way more often and clean valves. The orange stuff that it produces carps stuff up faster. It’s good stuff and works well just need to stay on the maintenance
Yeah these plugs have 2000 miles on them did pretty good. put a boat load of nos through it a swell. cant get solid top eix plugs as far as I know. those plugs were drenched in dielectric grease originally. The valves were no different than any of my 850's usually clean them a 1500miles. I wouldn't run the regular bprs, the eix always run crisper and stronger idle. My sleds are usually traded by now. it's normally someone else problem. No 9r boost so going to have to wait
 
Any one indexing there plugs, I have found a much nicer burn. Also plugs with the reed valve had dark burn insulators with some crust around the bottom of the grd electrode and base edge ,lots of smoke on warm up and the red cold warning would disappear at 76F now with the TRS I have light tan insulator cleaner looking plugs possible to the lean side, very little smoke on warm up and red cold engine bar goes off at 61F.
 
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