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ZR9000 Team clutch explosion

75K views 298 replies 60 participants last post by  Turboflash 
#1 ·
Those of us with Team primary clutches should make sure to do close (VERY close) inspection of movable side of clutch. I had my Team clutch replaced under warranty (recall) in 2017. However, 2 weeks ago when I was just inspecting it, I used a mirror to look closely at the movable side and behold, it was cracked in several places. AND, I've seen a few other Team clutches with same kinds of cracks. (This is a '17 ZR9000 Ltd that ran 2 years with a 280HP tune (PEFI) and this year their 320 tune. I have 2 close buddies with '17 TCats w 280 tunes and their clutches are NOT cracked (yet). The first few pics are my cracked Team clutch (taken w a mirror so we can see the movable side) and the last two are of a guy who had his 2020 TCat with 290HP TD tune blow up his primary Team clutch. Take note and inspect your primary clutch. Looks like it hurt bad!!
 

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#2 ·
For some reason, the pics reversed. First ones are exploded clutch and the ones following were mine. I caught mine before catastrophic failure and put a new one on. IF it happens again, my next clutch will be Tapp or STM. Cannot risk this kind of failure.
 
#4 ·
No, check pic closely. Spider is all there. The movable sheave exploded. It probably started just like the pics show for my clutch. Once the cracks get long enough, kaBOOM!
The spider is 316 stainless steel so it's not gonna blow up. Movable blew up. Something going on with Team clutch. I've seen about 4-5 other pics of guys who noticed their Team movable was cracked.
 
#5 ·
I saw a 2016 snap a spider on a team
Weight failure
I’ve seen cracks like that on high mileage ones
Heat
Lots of it
Usually a story behind the issue
Good to check
No matter what clutch

17 recall had to do with bearing on shaft
I had 4 sleds that had them lock up prior to recall within first 400 miles
Not a huge fan but what they come with
 
#7 ·
I think they're too thin down low on the movable. I don't have a stutter box or anti-lag. I trail ride. My clutch engagement is about 3000-3100. With this mellow engagement, the movable doesn't see a big shock when it engages. It's very low on the movable. So, it doesn't see allot of heat either. Barely above engagement and I don't drag race. I think the casting is too thin down there. Granted I have allot of HP (320) but I usually use that once I'm moving 20-30 MPH. I never do a full-throttle start from a dead stop. I am in contact with Arctic Cat as I think there is a problem. If you Google: U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission – Recall Alert
Recall Date: June 6, 2017
Recall Number: 17-748

Arctic Cat Recalls Snowmobiles Due to Impact Hazard
(Recall Alert)

you can read more but it's pretty vague. I think they didn't want to alarm users so they toned down the alert.
 
#8 ·
Sorry to hear about all your troubles!!! Hope you get them all resolved. I was very fortunate with my Team clutching. Knock on wood. Never had any issues. However I've recently upgraded to a Tapp primary and Pro4 secondary combo. If it's in the budget I highly recommend. Really woke the sled up. I personally think the team clutches work great on a stock machine however when you start adding power that reflashing provides their reliability will be short lived.
 
#9 ·
A friend of mine last weekend totally stock 2018 ZR9000 rr with 2000 miles shattered his clutch. It took out his secondary, front a-arms and belly pan. It is very lucky he did not get hurt. Cat is coming good for all the parts but someone is going to get seriously hurt with these clutches. I personally am on the third one and so is my buddy we both have 2017 TCATS.

Inspect your team primary clutch, it is junk.
 
#11 ·
I have sawed in half many clutches which had those cracks at the smaller diameter area, every clutch of all brands that I sawed are plenty thick at the low end where the crack starts and at the outer edge (largest diameter), BUT they are very thin in the center, when the crack reaches closer to the center of the clutch they may explode.:cry:
 
#13 ·
Going to get hurt? Did you look at my friends foot in the 1st post? It fractured several bones in his foot and took quite a few stitches to piece it back together. What if a piece flies through hood and hits you in the face? It could go right through your face shield.
 
#16 ·
replaced our original clutches which were ok, we both cracked our replacement clutches and recieved new warranty ones and finished the season with them. Sent our clutches to Ron Ward do to his thing and he noticed that my my buddies clutch was cracked again so he go warranty for a second time.

So yes 2 2017 thundercat 7 clutches lol, and we bought a spare one on ebay just in case.
 
#21 ·
I don't know when Cat started using the 2017 version of the Team clutch. Whenever it was, those are included in this concern. Under NO circumstances should primary clutches used on trail sleds crack and/or EXPLODE!
There was a recall back in 2017 (see attachment) for clutch replacement for what I think was supposed to address this exact problem. However, I think the problem is much bigger than just 2017 (as evidenced by my pics) AND Cat knows it and is trying to keep it a secret!
 

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#24 ·
That COULD happen but not on this (Cat p/n 0746-889) particular Team clutch used on 2017-2019 ZR9000/TCats. The clutch is made (trust me I know cuz I looked at it closely when I replaced mine) such that the two sheaves cannot contact each other even with a belt explosion. The movable sheave is prevented from contacting the inner stationery sheave by the outer cover. The inside of the outer cover contacts the top of the spider lock nut about .052" BEFORE the movable contacts the stationery sheave (I measured it!). See attached picture. They're all made that way! Unless the clutch was modified, the outer (movable) cannot contact the stationery (inner) sheave so even if the belt blows up, they will not contact each other.
This clutch has other internal weaknesses or design flaws that cause it to crack leading to catastrophic explosion.
 

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#27 ·
Interesting! I never looked down in there on mine. I always take a new belt and close the clutch and wrap the belt around the top just to see where it can go at full shift which I did but didn't look down at the bottom. However, belt blowing still won't do it any good despite where its stopped. weights are still pushing hard when they let go and things flex. Just something to consider.
 
#25 ·
No. When on throttle, movable is advancing towards stationery sheave as it's shifting. If suddenly the belt disappears, the movable will suddenly want to slam into stationery sheave. However, on this Team clutch, the two cannot come in contact with each other due to the way it's made. On most/many clutches, the movable will slam into stationery with lots of force.
 
#28 ·
I have a 2018 thundercat, noticed crack in clutch at 2100 miles. I am not part of the recall as my serial number is about 1000 units past the recall. I've been talking to Cat Care about the damage being consistent with the recall, and they haven't budged yet. they denied me warranty and I purchased a new clutch. last week they called me back and asked me to bring my old clutch back to the dealership so it can be sent out for inspection. another person from Cat called me about an hour later and told me she had just left a meeting and it looks like they are expanding the recall. Everyone with a problem clutch should report this to cat care. The more complaints they get the better! Lets get after them to make this right before someone gets killed! I couldn't imagine the clutch grenading at 100+mph. Also my sled is 100% stock...
 
#29 ·
Of course. Blowing belts is never a good. As far as if it will shift all the way up - YES it still can. I looked closely at that too cuz I was considering machining it so it could shift more. When I put a new belt around this new clutch, it still can push the belt up out of the clutch enough to just about see the cords. That's plenty far enough.
Blowing belts can move the stub shaft inwards (towards engine) enough to cause the clutch to rub on the 4 bolts that hold the stub shaft housing on! It's been done by quite a few guys. The OD of the bearing that supports the stub shaft slides in the housing causing the whole stub shaft to move inward. I even heard one guy say it was far enough to cause it rub on the water pump housing right below coolant bottle. Yikes.
 
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