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What a depressing, yet informative post. I have an 18 T-Cat clutched and dialed in perfect (Hurricane 240/270/300). I really like the way the TEAMS perform. No belt issues at all. However, now I'm scared to ride the thing with all the examples of primary clutches exploding. On top of that, I tried to pull mine off (just to check the stub shaft bearing depth) and after two different impact guns, it will not come off. Looks like I'll have to cut the puller and do the "grease" trick to create a hydraulic press.
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
If you have access to a good hardware store with tons of nuts and bolts, it might be better to just take your puller there and match up the thread to buy a long metric bolt that will work, instead of cutting off a good puller.
Since you're going to pull it off anyway and reset the bearing, it would be ok to try hitting the end of puller good with it torqued in.
Likely the clutch spun on the stub more or less welding it on. Could be a job to clean up both stub and clutch. I always lap my clutch when installing it to make sure it fits the stub exactly. Then, I use 58 ft lbs not the 51 the manual calls out. Be sure to run the engine for at least 5-10 minutes and then re-torque the bolt.
Good luck!
 

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I would hit the puller with a hammer, it should pop off after a couple of hits. I have 5600 miles on my teams with a 270 flash since new, never lost a belt and clutch all still looks new. I wouldn't worry about it, perhaps we got one of the good ones. Just keep an eye on where the cracks are supposed to develop and inspect it a handful of times each year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
From my experiences, it's always the moveable side that cracks. That means you cannot just drop the side panel and look at clutch to see if it's cracked. The side on the engine is the stationery side. I've never seen that side cracked. You have to use a mirror to look at moveable side. Look down low next to center hub. That's where the cracks start.
 

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So I guess the elephant in the room is the new ADAPT system on all 22 full sized cats.
Every thing I read so far is that it will bolt on in place of the Team set and even uses the same belts. I put 2500 miles on my 19' 6000 never had a problem, never had to change a belt, never seen any cracks. Hopefully people get their cracking/exploding clutches replaced under warranty and will get the new adapt going forward. Keeping my fingers crossed because I just ordered a new Tcat, being a beta tester makes me nervous.
Has there been any reviews put out by Cat on the new ADAPT drive clutch? Don't think I saw anything on it during the 2022 release other than they have it and pictures. Has anyone seen anything on it and where? I'm curious about the name ADAPT and what it means; is the clutch adjustable like the doo?
 

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Thanks Super8!

Will be something to look forward to and see if the durability is there and if our weights and springs will transfer to it?
 

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Thanks Super8!

Will be something to look forward to and see if the durability is there and if our weights and springs will transfer to it?
I'll add some pictures to this forum about bad arctic cat clutch. My clutch also has cracks and the plastic sliders on the tower also broke. I have a 2018 zr 9000 rr 2500 miles. Never blown a belt. Sled was not included in clutch recall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Very typical and common for Team clutch. Sure hope the new one doesn't do this. Many many thousands of bad Team clutches out there.
 

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Not risking it, got rid of team clutches, went with TAPP primary, STM secondary, and after one season on that combo I can’t tell you how much better those work vs.stock. I have stock clutches with 1000 miles on them if anybody interested. 2020 T-Cat.
 
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