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How much accumulated weight did 911 cover add?
No idea?? No doubt some. Do you think there would be and issue from a bit of added weight? Not sure what an STM or TAPP weigh but I'm thinking more over stock? All I did other than install was sent it to Patrick and had it balanced. Let me know what you are thinking...curious.
 

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2014 XF800 137
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2014 XF800 137
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From the Manufacturer; ZRP
We designed this cover to be stronger as our top priority. The towers and spyder in this clutch are not as stiff as they should be so we are trying to help them the best we can.
The stock curved shape is the strongest vs a circle or straight line from tower to tower, we have the analysis to prove that. Also in our experience, these style of billet clutch covers need to be 7075. 6061 does not hold up. We scrapped and warrantied $40,000 in covers back in 2014 learning that lesson so unfortunately we know from experience.
Our second priority was reduced rotation inertia, i.e. takes less energy to spin, which we were able to do by 11% vs stock. This is what you feel in throttle response vs how much lighter it is in grams.
Our cover provides .050 more clearance to the spyder nut. We split the difference vs stock to try to limit this interaction occurring but did not go all the way as we did not want the primary to over shift vs the secondary.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Having just replaced my Team primary on '17 ZR9000 I checked to see how much upshift a brand new Team clutch produces. On the stock ones, as you say, the shift-out ends when the bushing in the outer cover contacts the spider nut. At that point, there is about .050-.060" space between the movable face and the stationery face. With a new XS827 Timken belt (1.50" wide) it pushes the belt up out of clutch about 1/8-3/16".
I personally wouldn't want to see the clutch close up any more than it does stock for 2 reasons. 1, pushing the belt up out of clutch any more than stock to me is too much. And, 2, not knowing if the secondary can shift any more. IF secondary can't shift any more than a stock clutch does, then the whole shift-out will produce over-shift which will cause catastrophic heat and belt failures very quickly. Especially on a sled with 300HP. Could also cause jackshaft bearing failures.
Did you guys check to see if the secondary can accommodate the primary shifting more? And, did you see that the stock clutch already pushes belt up out of clutch?
 

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Here are pics of the 911 cover installed on my 2019 Team primary to show that it shifts all the way to the base of the sheaves instead of locking up on the spider nut. This is a nice upgrade to this primary.
If you got back to my earlier post in this thread I was running the 911 cover on my team. Still cracked only 750mi. I also had it balanced
 

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Having just replaced my Team primary on '17 ZR9000 I checked to see how much upshift a brand new Team clutch produces. On the stock ones, as you say, the shift-out ends when the bushing in the outer cover contacts the spider nut. At that point, there is about .050-.060" space between the movable face and the stationery face. With a new XS827 Timken belt (1.50" wide) it pushes the belt up out of clutch about 1/8-3/16".
I personally wouldn't want to see the clutch close up any more than it does stock for 2 reasons. 1, pushing the belt up out of clutch any more than stock to me is too much. And, 2, not knowing if the secondary can shift any more. IF secondary can't shift any more than a stock clutch does, then the whole shift-out will produce over-shift which will cause catastrophic heat and belt failures very quickly. Especially on a sled with 300HP. Could also cause jackshaft bearing failures.
Did you guys check to see if the secondary can accommodate the primary shifting more? And, did you see that the stock clutch already pushes belt up out of clutch?
Sounds like a good "mock up" project for someone near their sled. :)
 

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Having just replaced my Team primary on '17 ZR9000 I checked to see how much upshift a brand new Team clutch produces. On the stock ones, as you say, the shift-out ends when the bushing in the outer cover contacts the spider nut. At that point, there is about .050-.060" space between the movable face and the stationery face. With a new XS827 Timken belt (1.50" wide) it pushes the belt up out of clutch about 1/8-3/16".
I personally wouldn't want to see the clutch close up any more than it does stock for 2 reasons. 1, pushing the belt up out of clutch any more than stock to me is too much. And, 2, not knowing if the secondary can shift any more. IF secondary can't shift any more than a stock clutch does, then the whole shift-out will produce over-shift which will cause catastrophic heat and belt failures very quickly. Especially on a sled with 300HP. Could also cause jackshaft bearing failures.
Did you guys check to see if the secondary can accommodate the primary shifting more? And, did you see that the stock clutch already pushes belt up out of clutch?
I'm trying to understand with the amount of Team primaries you've gone through, when do you pull the trigger on a billet clutch that can handle the power? You are a strong proponent of these Teams are junk, but you keep using them. I'll be honest, if my Team cracks, warranty or not, there will a be a billet in my future.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
1. I'm on my 3rd Team clutch since sled was new in 2017. First one recalled by Cat in
2017 supposedly due to issues w center roller bearing. That replacement cracked
after 4200 miles.
I didn't want to spend what we left of this short winter season trying to dial in a new
billet primary because I'm sure numerous changes would be needed (primary spring,
primary weight, secondary changes, etc) to get it as dialed in as my Team setup.
This option = time (didn't have time) and $$.
2. Cat gave me the new clutch free of charge about 3 weeks ago. Spare.
3. Waiting for Cat, I had purchased a brand new one for only $293.
4. Tapp = $1500, STM = $1500.
5. Since most Team primaries crack on movable side down low next to steel center bushing, I took my new one apart, put it in lathe and removed sharp edge (radius) to see if removing the edge will solve problem. Won't know for a while - riding season over.
 

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1. I'm on my 3rd Team clutch since sled was new in 2017. First one recalled by Cat in
2017 supposedly due to issues w center roller bearing. That replacement cracked
after 4200 miles.
I didn't want to spend what we left of this short winter season trying to dial in a new
billet primary because I'm sure numerous changes would be needed (primary spring,
primary weight, secondary changes, etc) to get it as dialed in as my Team setup.
This option = time (didn't have time) and $$.
2. Cat gave me the new clutch free of charge about 3 weeks ago. Spare.
3. Waiting for Cat, I had purchased a brand new one for only $293.
4. Tapp = $1500, STM = $1500.
5. Since most Team primaries crack on movable side down low next to steel center bushing, I took my new one apart, put it in lathe and removed sharp edge (radius) to see if removing the edge will solve problem. Won't know for a while - riding season over.
Fake news.... lol. Remember last fall on TY when i brought this up, and was immediately chastised by all the Sidewinder guys saying that only the Yammi clutches exploded???
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I've got lots of pictures and testimonials.
Cat continues to be in denial and is still working hard to cover it up. I have been in communication with Consumer Product Safety Commission as a result of the claim I filed (basically a class-action claim). They informed me about 3 weeks ago they have now submitted a formal complaint at Arctic Cat which will require AC to respond with formal plans of action. CPSC is a federal agency and will not allow them to be silent.
The sad part is that the Team clutches seem to not wear out at all (at least when mounted on 998) but the fatal flaw is they all crack and eventually blow apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
For sure but I've seen and have pictures of Team clutches that have blown apart on box stock ZR6000! To go along with fragmentation on ZR8000 & ZR9000. Billet would fix it but Cat is not gonna do that. Too much $$. And most guys who bought and ride a stock ZR6000 aren't gonna afford a billet clutch either.
There are plenty of examples of high performance sleds from the past that cast clutches that didn't crack or fragment. It's all about design, proper materials (like best grade of aluminum and best heat treating, etc) and quality workmanship in machining.
 

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I've got lots of pictures and testimonials.
Cat continues to be in denial and is still working hard to cover it up. I have been in communication with Consumer Product Safety Commission as a result of the claim I filed (basically a class-action claim). They informed me about 3 weeks ago they have now submitted a formal complaint at Arctic Cat which will require AC to respond with formal plans of action. CPSC is a federal agency and will not allow them to be silent.
The sad part is that the Team clutches seem to not wear out at all (at least when mounted on 998) but the fatal flaw is they all crack and eventually blow apart.
Excellent! I filed one too. Cats response was laughable. I couldn’t believe they wrote it.
They tried to turn it around like I didn’t know what I was talking about and they played dumb.

They actually sent a spin doctor with one post, new S&M member to cast doubt on the exploding clutches. Haha

The response to the clutch explosion was they expect the clutch cover to prevent any flying pieces. They denied cracking tunnels and vibration/harmonics issues. They denied that a new flywheel and carbon fibre TCL were in response to vibration/harmonics. Flat out lies imo.

Now with two filed complaints, with pics we should see some action.

The above are my beliefs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My '19 Tcat is at the dealer now. He just called to inform me that my primary has numerous cracks.....Anyone know if cat is warrantying these things?
Bone stock with 3846 miles
 

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I know Cat has warrantied some for the cracks. Ask your dealer(shouldn't have to ask) to get on the horn and go to bat for you with Cat.
 

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I know Cat has warrantied some for the cracks. Ask your dealer(shouldn't have to ask) to get on the horn and go to bat for you with Cat.
He's doing that , I was just curious if anyone had any experience with this situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
You have to "push" the issue with your dealer. Even as of now, Cat is not admitting there's a problem. About 4 weeks ago, the Consumer Product Safety Committee contacted me and told me they have now officially submitted a formal complaint to Cat about Team clutches cracking.
My clutch was replaced under warranty by my dealer AFTER I went there and showed him the CPSC paperwork. While this complaint goes back to 2017, it is still very much valid. Cat does have a problem but is still trying to deny fault.
Print and show your dealer this CPSC complaint. They should replace your clutch under warranty. That said, unfortunately, they will replace it with a new Team clutch that is the same as your original and it too will crack in time. Try not to do stop and start riding allot. Try to keep sled moving.
Attached is .pdf file for Consumer Product Safely Committee clutch recall alert for cracking Team clutches.
 

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