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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I followed the recommended settings for a single pipe & clutch kit and came up way too fat, had the left cylinder hogged up all day. After cleaning excess gas out of everyplace imaginable I did some carb work to lean it back some. Aside from running it in the garage I haven't gotten to ride yet. I was wondering how bad the power valves could have gotten hogged up in the course of that shitty afternoon. I pulled the cover off the servo, disconnected each cable and was able to move each PV freely - a good sign. The PV has four screws around the outside and two on the smaller plate where the cable goes. Never had one apart and dont need surprised or worse yet screw it up. If I were to clean them can anyone explain the proper way to do it.? Or do I leave them alone all together.?
 

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Just remove those 6 bolts you mentioned and slide valve out, note what side is up. put towel under it and clean it off with SOS pad and carb cleaner. put back in. tighten bolts lightly. 4-6 lbs is the spec. I use a 1/4" drive. that is the "in sled easy" way. if you want to clean them standing up at a work bench you need to unhook them from teh cables. There is a pin bolt and a spring. Its easier to just do it in the sled. RTV the cover gaskets if they tear. they are vented anyway so the silicone does not do much, more to keep moisture out from snow dust and what not.
 

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Follow this and it will walk you through it!

It is an easy job, just messy! You should shim them when you have them out. Do a search on here or Arctic Chat about APV shims and you should find what you need to do this also. This should be done on ALL 800's and 900's! Here as a thread on Chat that was just posted. There are tons more!!!

http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php...mp;hl=APV+shims
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I read a couple places where guys were discussing & even selling shims, might have been on the parts forum. So I clean up the PV and install a .020 shim,,,can I leave the cable lengths as is.? Ita all stock and realistically I cannot get a cable measurment that accurate within .020.
I'm sort of bummed about the lack of snow & dont want routine maintenance heading into the WTF mode. Willing to try things but dont have a pack of sled guru's to set me straight when things aint quite right......I thank you guys.!
 

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Cleaning the power valves is very easy - just do what the other guys said. You can easily adjust the cable length with a ruler/tape measure. Not sure what the cable length is for the 900, but I know it's been discussed in other topics.

You definitely want to invest in a pair of valve shims. Personally, I've gone through two sets of pistons and one cylinder re-plate due to the valve issue. Since adding the shims - no problems.
 

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I am kind of in the same boat with sled guru's but this forum along with a service manual a is all you will need for most of your sled projects. Everyone here and on Arctic Chat has been a BIG help with my sled projects and problems.

Yes, a pair of .020 shims is a must! They sound like a pain but it is not all that bad. About a two beer job! A piece of aluminum gutter or siding is about the thickness you are looking for. You need .020 as a min and .025 as a max. Mine I think are .024. The way the shims work is they move the entire APV out so the cable adjustment doesn't change….that is the nice part. I made a cardboard template by tracing the APV bridge and then cut them out of the gutter material with a dermal tool. After I had them cut out, I sanded them smooth and bingo…..I had shims!!! Mine are not pretty but they work. Just be sure the center hole is big enough for the valve to move freely and you got it! The question has been posted about using washers and the answer to this was “it is a very bad idea because they can drop into the cylinder very easy”

If you can get a set of laser cut shims from some of the guys that sell them on these sights, do it! They look great and fit perfectly!!!!

Now, for the cable adjustment, when I went to set my cables I couldn't get anywhere close to what that article I sent you says to set them at so I posted the question on here. I was told by many to set them at 1.51" and that has worked great. The 800 and 900 is the same! The key is to be sure they are the same length. The easy way to do this is buy a roll-pin that the cable will fit into. Open the slot on the pin so it will slide over the exposed cable between the ball that goes into the servo and the cable jacket. Cut and file the pin so it is 1.51" long and you now have a jig tool for this job! Make it a walk in the park to set the cables.
 

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I also made a roll pin up for a cable gauge. Works like a charm.

I grease my gaskets on the covers lightly and they are easier to get off in one piece.

What I suggest you do is take out one at a time to clean. I pop mine frequently just to keep an eye on them.

I made my shims two years ago out of aluminum fascia flat stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After reading above I removed the servo cover, retaining clip, & cables from the block. One measured just a hair over 1-1/2" (pretty much right on) and the other side a little longer at 1-5/8. Anyone have a lead on laser cut shims please send them my way. Roll pin sounds like the EZ ticket for evening things up - after some cleaning. :clap:
 
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