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Discussion Starter #1
Hey People......now that the competition has had some time to pick up their jaws ....and start tuning to get by the "stock " ZR900SP......I think we need to turn it up a notch! I'm having fits with the F-Cats.... so I will start first....

Skid: Limiter straps all the way out
springs on soft
couplers on soft

Primary: 74gram weights, stock spring

Secondary: playing with a 58/52 Helix...though I think it would be nice to have the 53 finish....a 59/53 was suggested to me. stock spring

Contemplating removing cones from airbox...but then its not legal for sanctioned racing.

I'm at about 900 ft sea level, probably could drop a few jet sizes

I aint no big tuner....so cmon people throw ol Track a bone.... :p Watcha done.....?????
 

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Discussion Starter #2
You can take them out...or you can rotate the coupler blocks...
as you rotate the block it is different widths....
I agree with the slamming down on the rear of the seat.....
I have tried standing on the rear bumper..
You get good bite ....but its very difficult
to climb back on the seat with all that torque!!!!
YEEEHAAAA!!!!

Let me know what the Dalton set-up has for weights etc.

Couplers out......can you say Wheelie!!!
 

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I just orderd the CPR clutch kit....him and streight line performance were the only two that claimed a top end gain.....I went with cpr becuse he is using hevey hitters ....also anybody deal with streight line before??? he seems to know whats up....
 

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Boncing on the ass on the sled looks funny, but does work! I deal with Livingstons AC in NH. They have their own clutch kits... stuff always works good. Was there tonight talking with Steve - he said the 900 clutching is off some - the F7 is right on, thats why they will run pretty close to our ZR9. Helix and springs will need to be changed, weights are very good so he says. Only dealer I know with a drag field out back! They do alot of hop-up stuff - give them a call. I'm sure everybody has seen their dyno results by now right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anybody try a 60/54 helix???? We lost our snow so testing is on hold.....wondering how much of a difference there is between that and a 59/53....word is they both work well with 74 gram weights.
 

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Track: Try an orange/white primary spring. 290lb finish versus the purples 240. Put one in mine today on my mechanics advice, and this thing plain rocks, and the r's are still right on. Worked good for me, and if you don't like it you're only out 20 bucks. B) Austin
 

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Discussion Starter #8
zr9er....what else did you do? Is the primary stock other than the spring change?
 

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Track,can you not move your coupling blocks back? Drill a hole if you have to! I also don't think you can stand on your bumper in a SANCTIONED drag race as you alluded to! :wacko:
 

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For sanctioned races you must keep both feet on the running boards at all time or you get DQ,ed! For short races run a softer primary spring to let the engine upshift faster. For 660 & less you want to run the engine at rpm where it makes the most torque. For long flat out racing run a stiffer primary spring & clutch it to run about 100 rpm over peak hp specs. My yammies come out of the hole the best if I lean my chest over the handlebars to get more track on the ground....you may want to try that on a cat.
 

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Track: Yes rest is stock and sec spring in centre hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the advice guys.....Turk I wish you were on team green....it shows class to be willing to help the competition...looking forward to buying you a beer some day....the standing on the bumper experiment was during days out on Netley creek and Wellman Lake....theres usually more sleds to race than at the sanctioned events :p I have a set-up to try but conditions are brutal right now.....when I do I will post results! ps. Turk I am going to the Ducks at the end of the month maybe you could come up and play.....
 

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Where is this zr9 confidence that was once instilled in you guys?
I know my stock f7 will run a stock 9 down. B/C i've done it..It isn't any fun racing my brother anymore b/c he put $2000 into his 900 just to be my f7. sad sad sad! :angry:
 

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I thought I knew but now i'm confused, the coupler blocks are not the spring setters are they, the ones with the 3 settings for riding weight? I don't think they are but another post made it sound that way. so where are they?
 
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Fastcatzr900 sounds to me that you got your cat tuned good what do you have done to yours, can't get mine to beat the f7?
 

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THE NAME OF THE GAME IS HOLESHOT!!!! YOU MUST BE CLOSE WITH A F7 OFF THE LINE OR YOU WILL LOSE IN A SHORT RACE. NEED 192 STUDS 2ND MUST SHAVE DOWN THE BLOCKS OR REMOVE. 3RD DONT BE SLEEPING AT THE TAKE OFF 1,2, GO!!!!!!
 

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Don't most Firecats only have 170 studs? They are quick, but I am not so sure they haev the top end they need to run with the 800's and 900's in a longer race. I have a 800 bone stock that is getting a faster speed in 1200 feet then a Firecat. abotu 2 mph difference.
 

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Originally posted by ZR900SNOWPRO@Jan 30 2003, 07:28 AM
THE NAME OF THE GAME IS HOLESHOT!!!!
A-MEN!! Fellas if you want to really have a Huge advantage get the mean ass cat to hook up! The way to go is the stud boy push through assasins, the woodys push through chisle traction master, or the NASTY roetin scorpions! All that stuff about bouncing on the back is nuts. your bouncing because you aint hookin up. No hook no book! buy any these and you will look like this----> :D
 
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Fastcatzr900 what is your speed in 660,the f7 takes me every time up to about 700' to 800' but after that by by f7,i think i will try your set up and did you try any clutch work,got to take out the f7......later
 
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