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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got a 2003 ZR900 with a belt blowing problem. I added a torque arm and blew two belts this past weekend at WOT on the ice. Im checking the clutch alignment now. The motor seems to be just a touch forward, is it suppose to be set up this way to compensate for motor torque? I thought ive heard that in the past. If so should it be squared up with the torque arm or should it be a little forward?

Next im taking the chaincase apart to see what gears are in it, I believe its geared too high also and is running out of gear which may also be the problem.
 

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What speed were you running when she came apart?
 

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http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...amp;hl=020+belt

lotta good info on here.... c-note figured it all out for us guys.....look at the pics he took on 2nd to last page....... also get 2 -- 2 ft bars and clamp them to the flats on backside of each clutch so that they run upward.... stand behind secondary and make sure they run parellel to each other.......if not...shim motor...
this thread and the bar trick cured my blowing belts....bellypans etc... also justa lil long center to center is ok.not more than 30 thou ..i would think..
 

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It is possible you are running out of gear and your belt is coming out of your primary causing it to grenade, you say you are on ice this would be my guess how long are you holding it wot?
 

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It is possible you are running out of gear and your belt is coming out of your primary causing it to grenade, you say you are on ice this would be my guess how long are you holding it wot?[/b]

+1 on that thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking the gear thing too, just took the gears out and they are 26/41, I expected them to be 24/39 because it seems lots had troble with those winding out. The 26/41 is seemed to be the way to go based on a search of this forum.
As far as speed I can only tell you the speedo was straight up and down and it did feel like it was wound out, I probably held it longer then I should have but I was running down a machZ and I hate to lose :) . The sled has twin pipes and a few other small mods so it has a little more HP then stock, would this require a lower gear then a stocker maybe because of the extra power? Also would the primary spring maybe being old and worn possibly allow it to shoft out more then it should? The RPM's are at about 7500 which is right for the pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/inde...amp;hl=020+belt

lotta good info on here.... c-note figured it all out for us guys.....look at the pics he took on 2nd to last page....... also get 2 -- 2 ft bars and clamp them to the flats on backside of each clutch so that they run upward.... stand behind secondary and make sure they run parellel to each other.......if not...shim motor...
this thread and the bar trick cured my blowing belts....bellypans etc... also justa lil long center to center is ok.not more than 30 thou ..i would think..[/b]

Thanks, good reading, ill have to check that out for sure when its back together.
 

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I was thinking the gear thing too, just took the gears out and they are 26/41, I expected them to be 24/39 because it seems lots had troble with those winding out. The 26/41 is seemed to be the way to go based on a search of this forum.
As far as speed I can only tell you the speedo was straight up and down and it did feel like it was wound out, I probably held it longer then I should have but I was running down a machZ and I hate to lose :) . The sled has twin pipes and a few other small mods so it has a little more HP then stock, would this require a lower gear then a stocker maybe because of the extra power? Also would the primary spring maybe being old and worn possibly allow it to shoft out more then it should? The RPM's are at about 7500 which is right for the pipes.[/b]
7500 seems low for twin pipes, is you helix cut down for more over drive, if it is it will cause the belt to pull out when held at wot.

You have to have the motor square before you put the arm on it, if not the arm will be holding the motor out of alignment. Cat has them designed to twist around and come into alignment. I had to slot my motor mount holes to get the motor into alignment, before i put the arm on it.

Do what c-note says it worked wonders for me, I always blew belt, Another thought is it's very hard on cranks when they blow you might want to get your crank checked trued and welded. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
7500 seems low for twin pipes, is you helix cut down for more over drive, if it is it will cause the belt to pull out when held at wot.

You have to have the motor square before you put the arm on it, if not the arm will be holding the motor out of alignment. Cat has them designed to twist around and come into alignment. I had to slot my motor mount holes to get the motor into alignment, before i put the arm on it.

Do what c-note says it worked wonders for me, I always blew belt, Another thought is it's very hard on cranks when they blow you might want to get your crank checked trued and welded. IMO[/b]
Not sure on the helix, I had it off last night and no markings, I plan to get in touch with person who set th sled up for the previous owner this week. I was thinking the same thing, the torque arm is holding the motor out of alignment so I should square it up and start there, then do whats recomended in the other thread. Im worried about the crank myself, can it be checked without pulling the motor apart in any way?
 

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Not sure on the helix, I had it off last night and no markings, I plan to get in touch with person who set th sled up for the previous owner this week. I was thinking the same thing, the torque arm is holding the motor out of alignment so I should square it up and start there, then do whats recomended in the other thread. Im worried about the crank myself, can it be checked without pulling the motor apart in any way?[/b]
Yes,,,pull the air box, carbs, reeds and with a light of some sort, look into the mag side port and see how close the counter weight is to the case ..... When they get real bad, they will start to separate and the counter weight will start to dig into the case, this is when it can get messy.
You may want to pull the primary and mag side flywheel and put a dial indicator on the crank at the pto end and the mag end to see what you have for values. mine with 2400 miles was out .012 pto and 0.18 mag but still was running strong, i had read about the problem here and did what i have told you to do and my crank was rubbing my case so out she came.
It's never run so smooth and strong, no more shacking and banging at an idle.
The mag side counter weight clearance is tight .030"-.065" when all is good so if your tighter then this I would consider taking it out and having it trued and welded. :thumbsup:
 
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