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Discussion Starter #1
I just tried out a my sled with a D&D trail clutch kit, Unbeleivable difference. I have an MBRP silencer, and the sled runs great. The shocks are junk, and the stickers keep falling off. Is there any other mods that can be done cheap?
:ph34r:
 

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shoot. Carb or EFI?? Sorry

If EFI try to change to 23/40 gears, stock are 22/41

Stock on carb is 20/39
 

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Originally posted by F250@Dec 9 2002, 02:54 PM
unfortunately it is an EFI
I want to gain all across the board if possible
Unfortunately?? LOL! The EFI runs better than the carb anyhow, you should be happy!

Try the 23/40 gears on it, trust me.

If you think the EFI is no good just ask why Cat geared them different in the first place? My guess- the EFI make more HP.
 

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i have a 00 zr6 efi le, with pipes reeds clutch kit, and its geared... the only problem i see with the 02, is that they have a sealed chip????(old news), but u can still gear it it and reeds will make a differerence, also carver performance from minnesota will take the remote adjuster that always blows out and cap it, they also rebuild act/ fox shocks for good money... i needa rebuild these clickers at least 1 time a season and i just got rid of the remote adjuster

-mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its funny you mention remote adjuster, I cleaned my sled last night after my first ride out of the shop and the adjustable front skid shock has broken from the top mount and the lower is loose. I am already waiting for a backordered rear shock as it is. On top of that I now have a short in the handlebars so when I turn the bars to the left the headlight flickers off & on. I will definetly look into the gearing. Will I loose any top end with the 23/40 gears? I just want to get enough to smoke my buddy's F-7. I am ahead on take off, dead even to 80 or so then I loose him.
 

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yeah, i made the remote adjuster into a remote shock, hopefully it will work better and not blow out every 5 rides :wacko:

and i dont really know how much i lost with the gearing, i think it stayed pretty much the same, the pipes add alot, ive never seen the shocks actually break, but we break those cheap lines all the time, so were trying the nicest lines we could get, last winter i couldn't even ride my sled because 3 shocks were blown, 2 front clickers and the middle shock,
 

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Originally posted by F250@Dec 10 2002, 02:34 PM
If I gain on top, will I loose low and mid?
Theroretically , Yes. Seat of the pants, probably won't notice any difference. Try it, it only takes about 20 min to change a set of gears. You'll like it.
 

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who has been rebuilding your remote adjust??????? he must not be putting new o-rings in it. i can normally get about 1500 - 2000 miles before the seperating piston quad o-ring starts leaking. replacing the o-rings is a must at the oil change.
 

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although i'm on the second shock. the end screwed off, but this is some thing that could happen to any shock that the factory used some sh*t lock tight. when the thing works its sweet especially with my heel clickers and the 1.25 snocross track i have to crank the remote adjust just to keep the front down. then on the lake i let it all out and let the skis dangle for ht e first 600 feet
 

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f 250 how much lower was your sled with the mbrp can is it the trail or race one
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I put the race version on. It is loud, sounds good w/ no problems. If you are easy on the throttle you can sneek by houses without a problem, but if you hit the throttle you can hear it running a from quite a ways away. If you are running it wide open, it sounds like an open mod sled from hell!
 

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thanks for the info
 

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you can rebuild remote adjuster shocks as many times as you want, but until you disable it, you will never fix it. my cross country shock in in the garbage where it should be. :rolleyes:
 
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