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Discussion Starter #1
XCR Owners Please Read

Hi welcome to the XCR Crew, we would like to list a few things you should
know about you're xcr 800 / 700 from 1999 - 2003

part numbers and exploded views of these sleds can be viewed at

hlsm.com

or you're own favorite polars parts look up web site

Things to check and needed maintenance

1st Check Carbs for green slides! Green Carb Slides may become broken or are broken and could and will cause engine damage if not caught, most often its the PTO Side Carb that breaks, the breaks are in the lower left/right corners of the slides

the slides should be changed to new black slides or do a new coating option from Line2Line Coating that can be applied to the green slides.
I would expect that you need to send Line2Line Coatings slides that are NOT Cracked or weaked / stressed only worn slide, so inspect you're before you go this route

The Coating that would / could be used is the Armor CC Coatings.

but if you choose this route call and discuss this with Line2Line

I think at this tome only patrioticinnovations has tried this method so the jury is still out.. << Link to Phil's Post

Polaris Charges $80.82 per black slide x 3 = $240+ Polaris Part # 3131002

2. Waterpumps s/b rebuilt every 4000 ish miles. bearings and mechanical seal
at the minumum, if you are un sure of the last rebuild just do it, it could save you're crank from bearing disaster and needing a costly rebuild


3rd a PTO Torq Arm is a must to prevent PTO motor mounts from breaking
there are a few options available
1st is a ninja_plumber torq am @ $130.00
2nd is a Superlink had by HPE or Wahl Brothers Racing

4th VES setiings 3 - 4 clicks out from the bottom, VES Valves s/b check and cleaned every year for best performance, the valves are very brittle and the
10 mm nuts/studs tesnd to break easily, use some heat against the ves valve nut to be sure any retaining epoxy is heated to make it easy for ves / nut dis-assembly WITHOUT Valve stem/stud breakage


5th the Magic RPM to dial the XCR 800 in to is 8100 - 8300 "WITH A CALIBRATED TACH / Or Electroinc Guage such as AvengerIII or a Digatron"

If the Tach is not calibrated it can be dead on balls accurate or as much as 200 RPM's off, we have seen it vary, so my point on this is to spend 20$ to have the tach calibrated or target 8300 - 8500 MAX RPM


There is a sticky post by POCKETS that is a very good and interesting read for tested setups and 2ndary clutching configs Just Click this Link and start reading

Primary Clutch Tuning factory tuning is 2 to 4 grams light using the 10 series of weights, there is some variation to thoughs on clutching, but basic tuning
is to bump from 10-60's to 10-62 or 10-64's to pull the RPM's down

the 140/330 Almond Round or Team Green is a great spring to use for a trail driven application of XCR 800 / 700 sled

but venture out and see what works best for you for you're application be it a trail XCR 800 or a Drag Race XCR 800

Gearing here is a list of the most widely used gear combinations
22/40
23/40
24/40
24/39 << stock gearing
25/39
25/38

everyone and anyone please add as you see needed to this post
this post should have been made years ago.
 

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I agree Roger. I don't post much, but visit this site almost daily. The information that you guys provide is invaluable to anyone trying to properly set up their XCR 800. I know it saved me a pile of time and expense dialing in my 2001. Thanks again to you, Don, and all the other XCR gurus!
 

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Good start Roger.

On the VES adjustment topic, the Polaris Race Manual states to leave the adjusters flush for trail riding. Turn them in for drag racing.

V-Force reeds are worth about 5 hp and noticeably quicker acceleration.

The original 1999 XCRs had 450 mains, the 2000-2002 had 440 mains, and the 2003 had 430 mains. Most have found that 400-420 is fine for all round use with a stock engine in 0-40 degrees F temps at sea level with good premium fuel and key in premium fuel position.

A good thing to do when replacing slides is to confirm that all slides are perfectly synched, all reach WOT as the throttle hits the adjustment screw, and then set the TPS at exactly 3.77V at WOT.

I've found that the high idle problem appears to be solved by coating the slides and reducing clearance from stock .020" to .010".

Fuel economy can be improved by installation of a Holtzman Tempa Flow device.

Here are the stator test specs:
Y to Y/R: .15 OHMS (Lighting)
GRN to BLK/R: 15 OHMS (Ignition)
GRN to GROUND: Open (Ignition)
GRN to R: 15 OHMS (Ignition)
W to W/R: 185 OHMS (Ignition pickup)
Y/R to BRN: Ground (Lighting)

Ignition Coils:
Coil primary: .34 OHMS
Secondary: 7900 OHMS
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there a link to a good thread about the airbox mod for the 2000 XCR800?

no Link Needed.. you need a few things
1 x 5410834 INLET, PLENUM 14.38 <<< New
1 x 1253382 FOAM, INTAKE TRIPLE ASSY 1 37.30 << New
1 drill
2 hole saw bits + drill If I remember correct a 2" and 3" hole saw bits
and I used the xcr dual foam as a template to cut holes
in to the airbox for the inlet and the cowl under the dash

or you can just buy a used airbox top with the 2 holes and inlets and
drill out the cowl under the dash
 

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no Link Needed.. you need a few things
1 x 5410834 INLET, PLENUM 14.38 <<< New
1 x 1253382 FOAM, INTAKE TRIPLE ASSY 1 37.30 << New
1 drill
2 hole saw bits + drill If I remember correct a 2" and 3" hole saw bits
and I used the xcr dual foam as a template to cut holes
in to the airbox for the inlet and the cowl under the dash

or you can just buy a used airbox top with the 2 holes and inlets and
drill out the cowl under the dash

Are those 2 items still available from Polaris? Seems to me they have been dis-continued, or at least 1 of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are those 2 items still available from Polaris? Seems to me they have been dis-continued, or at least 1 of them.

Could be, just putting the details out there of whats needed :thumbsup:
 

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What do you guys like for settings on the fuel screws? I've been trying to research and Ive seen anywhere from .75 turns out to 2.75 turns out?

Needles Ive read in the past to shim them to 2.5, but recently see that it seems people recommend them to be in the "center" #3?

Does anyone have a measurement of the free length on the VES springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Matt even with porting / pipes
I run. 7 paj 45 piltots ill have to check screw but think im @ 3/4 turn out
And have always run needles @ #3

Rate Charts in my below signature at the ves tab of the page has ALL VES Spring Free Lengths listed :ermm:
part numbers have changed from when I got that list and the xcr ves does not appear to be listed

XCR 800 VES Spring Part Number = 3086830
new from package free length = 2.443

Sent from my DROID X2 using Snowmobile.com App
 

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800 xcr set-up

Some information are the same as what was post before.
These info were post before.

Make sure the TPS is set at 3.77 Volts at WOT.

Check to be sure that stock airbox is not gutted and that bowl vent hoses are all attached.

Check carb slides for damage. Replace stock green ones with black ones cutaways.

Cranking compression should be around 140 in all cylinders.

Set ignition switch at Premium fuel position. Use premium fuel at 92-93 octane, add a Fitch Fuel Catalyst to the fuel tank to insure fresh fuel quality.

Clutch to run at 81-8200 at WOT. (Not 8500 as recommended by Polaris). Usually requires 10-62 or 10-64 weights with almond round wire spring.

Stock 50/36 R-12 helix should use silver/blue spring in hole #2 or hole #3 for drag race.

Needles in center. I run pilots at 55, stock .9 PAJ, fuel screws at 1.5 to 1.75 turns.

Mains at 440 for -40F, lower number for warmer temps. I run 420's for down to 0 deg F.

Check all suspension wheels for free turning. Adjust track to proper tension.

Check all motor mounts for breakage, especially left front. MUST: Add a left front torque arm such as Super Link from HPE. Snug it right up tight and set stock push stop tight against engine after aligning clutches.

USING A NEW 1075 BELT, adjust clutch to perfect alignment and set belt deflection at about 1" to 1 1/4".

Should produce 11-12 MPG/US gallon, and 120 plus miles per tank with stock 24/39 gears. Reduce gearing to 22/40 for even better performance with little loss of top speed.

Drag race 660’ 22/40 gears.

Add a Holtzman Tempa-Flow for even better fuel economy and performance in warmer conditions.
 

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Waterpump rebuild 800 XCR.

Part Number Description Price Total
3085286 BEARING, BALL $19.94 (no. 6001)
3085149 O-RING,(WATER PUMP SHAFT) $1.46
3085145 BEARING $23.26 (no. 6002)
3085794 GASKET,PUMP CASING $1.75
3085175 PLATE,SEALING $17.44
3085384 SEAL, MECHANICAL $34.90
SubTotal
$98.75

O-Ring part number 3084461, still available.
Parts prices are not to date.
 

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Just thought of another tip.

The XCR 800, and all Polaris reed cage triples starting in 96 employ digital CDI boxes and sequential plug firing, not simultaneous, as other Polaris triples and twins do.

You must not mix up the ignition plug wires, coils or primary wiring leads between cylinders or it will fire 120 or 240 degrees out of time.

The PTO coil must have the white w/green wire.
The Center coil must have the white w/yellow wire.
The Mag coil must have the white w/blue wire.

You also cannot switch flywheels or CDIs between a earlier triple and these new sequential ones unless the entire ignition system is switched.
 

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Chokes

Watch for excess wear on tips of choke plungers.

Had PTO one break off on last ride. Caused inability to cold start. The entire rack then somehow came off the other two choke plungers and moved towards the PTO side. No choke action after that.

They are $18 each at Babbits. $17 to ship!!!!!!!! Polaris sells them for $22 plus tax, no shipping. Part# 3130828
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Watch for excess wear on tips of choke plungers.

Had PTO one break off on last ride. Caused inability to cold start. The entire rack then somehow came off the other two choke plungers and moved towards the PTO side. No choke action after that.

They are $18 each at Babbits. $17 to ship!!!!!!!! Polaris sells them for $22 plus tax, no shipping. Part# 3130828

Phil I found sometimes the issue is a missing C clip on the plunger actuator rod / forks "not keeping the forks centered
the C clip rests up against the carb body. so be sure to check there as well for a missing C clip
 

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You were right Roger. C-clip was missing and allowed rod to move sideways. That may be what broke the tip off the PTO plunger. When that one broke and the rod moved out of engagement with the other two plungers, they vibrated and broke the stems off down inside the plunger bores. Had to replace all three plungers with a good set off a T-Cat rack setup I had. :bc:
 

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Good post here guys.

I've got another tip. When cleaning valves, check bellows for rips. If you find a ripped bellow....DO NOT try to remove nut from stud without some heat on it. These nuts have loctite from the factory and are known to twist off which means new valve and cap nut. A little heat lets it easily twist off.:bc:
 

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When reassembling exhaust valves be very careful installing the valve cap. High Performance Service manual says to apply loctite 262 to the top 2-3 threads of valve and install cap. Torque to 6 Ft lbs. The threads on these valves are extremely brittle. Do not over torque them. I broke two of them before I learned. Valve cover torque 4 Ft lbs. VES housing bolts torque 9 Ft lbs.
 
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