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switchback - track rear shock - 7042176-extended length 16.61 inches-collapsed 10.97 inches-ifp depth1.8-200 psi-stroke 5.64inches

- track front shock- 7042084-extended length 12.51inches-collapsed 8.92 inches-ifp depth 4.77-200psi-stroke 3.59 inches

- front ifs shock - 7043083-extended length 17.69inches-collapsed 12.56 inches-ifp depth7.77-200psi-stroke 5.13inches


Dragon- track rear shock-7043205-extended length 15.60inches-10.56inches-ifp depth-2.25-200psi-stroke 5.04inches

- track front shock- 7043204-extended length 12.10 inches-collapsed 8.6 inches-ifp 2.25-200psi-stroke 3.50inches

-front ifs shock-7043206-extended length 18.00 inches- collapsed 10.13inches-ifp 2.25-200psi-stroke 6.26


good to swap?
Yup, ifs shocks are good to go. The only issue could be valving...how in tune they are with the switchbacks weight/springs or even when using the dragon springs in the switchback. At any rate try them.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yup, ifs shocks are good to go. The only issue could be valving...how in tune they are with the switchbacks weight/springs or even when using the dragon springs in the switchback. At any rate try them.

- front ifs shock - 7043083-extended length 17.69inches-collapsed 12.56 inches-




-front ifs shock-7043206-extended length 18.00 inches- collapsed 10.13inches-


so the inch and a half diff between them collapsed is ok?
 

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It'd be a lot worse if that dragon shock was the over 10.13 inches if those specs. are correct. Could be a problem if you pound moguls real hard. How many inches between the hard rubber shaft bumpers on the walker/evens shock and the shock body itself? Same question for the ones on the switchback. Take this measurement with both shocks fully extended.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
1.13 inches difference in the stroke of the shocks.


all specs via the polaris manual for each
 

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Imo, i'd installed both in the switchback without the spring and cycle the front suspension and compare how close the w/e shock is to the switchbacks one. If it compresses the sleds ifs too far that it hits the sleds bulkhead before bottoming out on the shock's rubber bottoming bumper, i'd can the idea of using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Imo, i'd installed both in the switchback without the spring and cycle the front suspension and compare how close the w/e shock is to the switchbacks one. If it compresses the sleds ifs too far that it hits the sleds bulkhead before bottoming out on the shock's rubber bottoming bumper, i'd can the idea of using it.
I think I may just rebuild the ryde fxs and leave it at that. ill get em revalved sametime.
 

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Before you re-valve anything, you need to know what those shocks aren't doing right for your weight and riding ability and you need to be honest about the ability over the terrain you ride. Those ryde shocks work pretty well overall already, may just need rebuilding...If those shocks were never serviced, hopefully they are in good condition internally, they can have a lot of wear if the oil was never replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Before you re-valve anything, you need to know what those shocks aren't doing right for your weight and riding ability and you need to be honest about the ability over the terrain you ride. Those ryde shocks work pretty well overall already, may just need rebuilding...If those shocks were never serviced, hopefully they are in good condition internally, they can have a lot of wear if the oil was never replaced.
no idea when the oil was replaced, my money would be on never.as of right now I sit on it and when I get off it rockets back up.to me that means its shot and theres nothing slowing the spring rebound.Im sure there probably fine when there recharged/rebuilt.

the price I see online here in Canada was 50 for a recharge , 65 for full rebuild' plus shipping.

at that price I may just pull all 4 and get them all fully rebuilt.ill hold off on the re valving.locally theres only one shop that does it and complete rebuilds are 150.
 

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no idea when the oil was replaced, my money would be on never.as of right now I sit on it and when I get off it rockets back up.to me that means its shot and theres nothing slowing the spring rebound.Im sure there probably fine when there recharged/rebuilt.

the price I see online here in Canada was 50 for a recharge , 65 for full rebuild' plus shipping.

at that price I may just pull all 4 and get them all fully rebuilt.ill hold off on the re valving.locally theres only one shop that does it and complete rebuilds are 150.
Be careful of shops that offer ''full rebuilds'' for that price on all 4. Your likely to need all new seals, and maybe plus whatever else. At any rate get all 4 done.
 

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no idea when the oil was replaced, my money would be on never.as of right now I sit on it and when I get off it rockets back up.to me that means its shot and theres nothing slowing the spring rebound.Im sure there probably fine when there recharged/rebuilt.

the price I see online here in Canada was 50 for a recharge , 65 for full rebuild' plus shipping.

at that price I may just pull all 4 and get them all fully rebuilt.ill hold off on the re valving.locally theres only one shop that does it and complete rebuilds are 150.
If it means anything. When I had my 07 dragon with walker evans, I was surprised and pleased to open up the shocks and find that they just used o-rings everywhere, v rings and other packing's. So turned out that it was dirt cheap to replace all o-rings in them. Loved that shock package, took such a pounding and being the walker needles just never really "Bottomed" out very easy at all. If you can make them fit do it.

One thing I did on my switchback that improved the front alot for bigger bumps and on trail riding was, change the upper sock mounts to ones from an xc, then run a set of xc front shocks (50th rydefx clicker ones 190lb springs I think) More travel in the suspension and just better for everything I found but the real soft deep off trail stuff.
 

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If it means anything. When I had my 07 dragon with walker evans, I was surprised and pleased to open up the shocks and find that they just used o-rings everywhere, v rings and other packing's. So turned out that it was dirt cheap to replace all o-rings in them. Loved that shock package, took such a pounding and being the walker needles just never really "Bottomed" out very easy at all. If you can make them fit do it.

One thing I did on my switchback that improved the front alot for bigger bumps and on trail riding was, change the upper sock mounts to ones from an xc, then run a set of xc front shocks (50th rydefx clicker ones 190lb springs I think) More travel in the suspension and just better for everything I found but the real soft deep off trail stuff.
I'm still running those ryde solo clickers on my 50th xc. They worked well bone stock with the 90/180 springs. Their even much better now that they've been quickened up on the rebound valving and mated with a dual spring setup. Its the best front end of any edge i've ridden.
 
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