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Discussion Starter #1
Let us know if you tried riding without the blocks in and if you kept them out or not. I'm a little nervous about bottoming out without them and I have aN F7 SP with 153 1.45" Mega-bites.
 

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i have the exact same set up 925 miles no blocks rides much better. takes 2 minutes try it. does bottoming out hurt the sled?
 

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no blocks is the way to go on snopros at least.
Standard suspension might be too soft withouth them.
You should bottom out occasionally, if you don't you're not using all the suspension.. B)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't know if it hurts or not but it sounds terrible. It hasn't happened on my F7 but it used to happen on my ZR.
 

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take them off as long as you have taken the limiter strap to the middle hole. Biggest thing you will notice is that in the rough stuff it becomes noticeably smoother with them out. Made my change right on the trail, only took 2 minutes to do.
 

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per rob I took them out and have noticed a considerable improvement in ride...I did although also move the limiter strap to the middle hole ...also per rob....try it out you might like it ....'


Brian
F7 sno pro :D
 

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Took my coupler blocks out and limiter in middle hole, my impressions are a slight ride improvement, slower in deep snow, too much ski lift on hard pack especially when drag racing,and a loss in traction on hard pack.I have the snopro model.
 

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Originally posted by zare6@Jan 17 2003, 08:30 AM
Took my coupler blocks out and limiter in middle hole, my impressions are a slight ride improvement, slower in deep snow, too much ski lift on hard pack especially when drag racing,and a loss in traction on hard pack.I have the snopro model.
How can there be a loss in traction? If you're lifting the skis higher, doesn't that mean you have MORE traction? ;)
 

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I did the whole switch the strap and romove blocks thing and did not care for it at all . I guess it all depends on the kind of riding you do , im a hardcore mogul masher most of the time , if you have ever riden tug hill on a weekend you know what i mean :wacko:
 

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I would think taking them out would help the hole-shot as far as with transfer, but it seems like the rear arm moves quite a bit before it hits the coupler blocks. IMO
 

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i have the std. suspension and have taken out the blocks-it has more travel and a better tide with them out-rode a very rough trail last night and it was very smooth and did not bottom once-did not really mash the trail but it was good for me-do not plan to put them back in any time soon-do not see the need
 

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Gunner F-5---------- To answer your question on weight transfer, what happens is when the front of the track comes off the ground too far traction is lost because there is so little track left on the ground, the front end will drop then hook up again. It seems to do this about 3 times before it settles down. This is very undesirable when racing.
 

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Originally posted by zare6@Jan 17 2003, 09:11 PM
Gunner F-5---------- To answer your question on weight transfer, what happens is when the front of the track comes off the ground too far traction is lost because there is so little track left on the ground, the front end will drop then hook up again. It seems to do this about 3 times before it settles down. This is very undesirable when racing.
Zare6, that is interesting. Did you do some holeshot testing on the clock, against another baseline sled, or just by the seat-of-the-pants? Any more info/feedback you could give on this would be appreciated. Thanks! -- Roy
 

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has anyone removed the blocks on a sno-pro model but left the strap in the stock location? at the races all the sno-pro race sleds had no blocks.
 

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I believe that too much ski lift can limit your acceleration. If the front end spends too much time going up, you're not moving forward like it should. Maybe 12 inches of ski lift is best???
 
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