When they're worn out???

 

LOL...Ask "Trail Ryder" to post the pic of his carbides from last season...LOL

 

Yeah, I think these still have plenty of life left!

 

I change mine when my sled keeps going straight when its suppose to turn.

 

"When they're worn out???"...Nice....
I get a lot of smartass answers on this forum. Is this the way this forum goes? I'm asking a lot of questions because I haven't ridden in along time...but believe me, I was riding (and changing wear bars) before many of you were even born. I can ask elsewhere if I have to be a member of your clique to participate....

 

It's easy. When the carbide portion is worn down affecting steering on icy turns that's when you'd want to change them. Steel skags wouldn't turn on anything other than snow so ice was always a problem (heading to the trees on bends at speed btdt).

 

I think it's hard to say exactly. We typically go on a couple longer trips so I probably change them a bit early since I don't want to try to deal with them mid-trip. But if you're riding from the same place you can probably run them until you notice they aren't biting as much. You'll notice first on concrete before while really riding.

 

Two weekends ago...
it was new set for Friday morning....
then, new set for Saturday morning...
if I would have rode Sunday... it would have been Sunday morning as well... conditions could have been better... 😕

 

I like a lot of carbide. Generally the end pads will go before the center turning carbide. At the point it's bare steel on gravel and won't last long.

 

If you ride in very good snow conditions they will last a long time.

If you ride in not very good conditions or County roads then I would check them. You should have carbide inserts showing and none broken out and missing.

It all depends on the conditions you ride. I check mine every 500 miles or so.

Don~

 

thanks for the info. Not familiar with carbides, per se, so your practical info was great

 

The carbide is an insert piece in the steel runner. Depending on your ski you can get different lengths of carbide insert. Another factor is the amount of studs you have on the track. You need enough carbide to steer a studded track that only wants to go in a straight line. Two studs per bar usually works well with 6 inch carbide. More studs=longer carbide

 

The runner will look like there is a fair amount of life left after the carbide has lost its bite. It depends on your trail conditions. If your good and snowy, dull carbide will work fine. If it's icy you want them to have their bite. I like to be able to turn no matter what so they get changed out early.

 

It is sensible to flip the machine up on it's side every time or every other time every morning before you take off and have a buddy just take a peek.

I broke the front track shock bolts on one of my sleds. Conditions where not good, so the sled was handling weird as it was. When I looked at my carbides, they were wore very heavy on the front only. Full carbide on the back... that made me look at the track shock and see the bottom bolts had sheared and now the front of the sled had way to much down pressure.

 

That's getting your moneys worth right there!!!!

 

There's 90 & 60 degree carbide runners, if the sled is used for riding on ice a lot then as soon as the sharp carbide edge is flattened some it's time to replace them. I usually ran 10 inch carbide sometimes 8 inch.

 

Usually sparks on road crossing is when the carbide is gone and your are wearing into the host bar.


Had that happen once and now I lift a ski a lot more often.

 

When they quit giving me grip on icy corners I would replace with new and keep the old set that still had plenty of carbide on them for when conditions weren’t as icy. But recently I purchased a tool called bite harder that mounts in a handheld drill motor and I would sharpen the carbides on mine and my wife’s sled after every ride in my opinion the tool is well worth the money and works extremely well, I have used it for 3 seasons now and it’s starting to wear out, while I’m thinking I better order another.

Because of this tool I have about 10 new sets of carbides hanging in my garage new in their package‘s that would otherwise be laying around under my bench with the sharp edge of the carbide worn off.

 

When they quit giving me grip on icy corners I would replace with new and keep the old set that still had plenty of carbide on them for when conditions weren’t as icy. But recently I purchased a tool called bite harder that mounts in a handheld drill motor and I would sharpen the carbides on mine and my wife’s sled after every ride in my opinion the tool is well worth the money and works extremely well, I have used it for 3 seasons now and it’s starting to wear out, while I’m thinking I better order another.

Because of this tool I have about 10 new sets of carbides hanging in my garage new in their package‘s that would otherwise be laying around under my bench with the sharp edge of the carbide worn off.

Been using one of these for probably close to 40 seasons...
Green Grinding Wheel | Woody's Traction (woodystraction.com)