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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
on my '04 pro-x 600 i am going to try the helix from the 700 62/42/.46. what should i expect from making this change?

right now i have the stock 58/42/.36 with 60g weights and almond red in the primary.
 

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You probably won't see much change. Only 4* on the starting angle difference between the 2. It will take it a little bit longer between the transition then the helix you have.Both have same finish angle.
 

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Originally posted by nickels@Sep 7 2005, 08:36 PM
You probably won't see much change. Only 4* on the starting angle difference between the 2. It will take it a little bit longer between the transition then the helix you have.Both have same finish angle.
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uhh, look again at finish nickels, or is it a typo?????????
 

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I'd say it would accelerate harder off the line through the midrange
 

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The last # of the helix of Team helix's is the duration of the initail angle....not the finish angle.

I lent my 03PROX7 helix to a buddy who tried it in his 600 with a slightly improved initial accelaration. He was running 62 primary weights too though and was geared down a top tooth as well so not apples to apples.

It is an improvement if you are riding @ low elevation and hardpack.
 

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Originally posted by terez@Sep 7 2005, 09:18 PM
The last # of the helix of Team helix's is the duration of the initail angle....not the finish angle.


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:doh: been a while since messing with team secondary, my bad :banghead: :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i have heard that a 68/44/.46 or 70/44/.46 is much better for corner to corner riding..is that true??

and would something with a finish angle of 42 be better on the lake??
 

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the 44 finish angle will be harder to pull in heavy wet snow or in real deep stuff... personally i'd stick with the 42 finish and gear down a bit...
 

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If you want it to pull harder off the bottom and midrange, the helix should be a good choice...depending on the conditions you drive in and driver weight etc. . Lots of guys get hung up on the big helix angles, but I found out after numerous helixes and trials, that bigger isn't always better, especially with the TEAM helixes. Currently I run a 58-44.46/58-42.46 helix in my piped XCR 800. I was running a 68-44.46 before. The 58-44.46 with 2 grams more weight in the primary worked MUCH better than the 68-44.46 cut helix. Too much initial angle with the team can hurt you more than help sometimes. With the big TEAM angles, it loads the sled down too fast and too hard, that guys often time find it necessary to back of some primary weight. The 62-42.46 will hold the initial starting angle a little further down the ramp than the stocker, so with the increase in helix angle and duration, it will load the sled down more. Trick is to get it to load it down just enough without pulling down the RPM’s. too much. For the most part, I would try to stick with the a helix that has the same finishing angle as the stock helix. Try the 62-42.46 and use it as a test comparance to the stock helix. More angle on the finish will also pull your RPMS down, so if your target on the top is fine, I would leave the finish angle alone. Try to use the primary to control some overrev if at all possible.

What is it that you are trying to compensate for in the first place?
 

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All very good advice on the Team clutching.

I think you will find the 44 finish angle too steep for your 600 unless you are running hardpack, cold , sea level all the time and or are very big.

Also know that the steeper helix angles in the Team WILL make lot's of heat and resulting high belt temps.....especially when the load is high, deep snow/climbing/off trai riding etc.
 

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on the advice of AFJ, I ran a 58/44.46 on my 00 600-660. it performed very well in the low to midrange, not as fast on topend as a button, R-8 silver/blue setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sixpack... i am just looking for a little more pull out of the corners. it just seems a little flat when i get on the gas. i tried 1 tooth down on the top sprocket but i think all i achieved was track spin in most conditions except hard pack. but then again i think part of my problem with the track spinning is my rear skid set up.
 

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if you spun more with a gear change, the same thing will happen with more aggressive clutching if the motor is up to it. adjust your weight transfer, shock valving, rr scissor stop.

Originally posted by ogrant@Sep 12 2005, 08:26 PM
sixpack... i am just looking for a little more pull out of the corners.  it just seems a little flat when i get on the gas.  i tried 1 tooth down on the top sprocket but i think all i achieved was track spin in most conditions except hard pack.  but then again i think part of my problem with the track spinning is my rear skid set up.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
racerdave..check out this thread that i have just started...i think this might have something to do with the spinning thing.

i hear ya on the lower gearing and aggresive clutching change.
 

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it's not a question of it working any longer, for the most part all us Poo know it alls :div20: agree it will work, now it's a question of putting the power into the ground, snow, or in other words hooking up.
 

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I have two helixes for sale. One is the original helix out of my '04 Pro X 700 with 800 miles on it. The other is a brand new Team 70-44-46, non RER still in Polaris vacuum package. Polaris PN-5133494. Any offers?
 
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