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Discussion Starter #21
Save your money and go with the all balls bearing. They last just as well for a lot less.
think that's what royal sold me. good to have spares anyway.throw em in the pile of other assorted edge parts in the shed for now i spose lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
bro, you need to swing that shit over here to Manitoba, we'll drink some locally made Crown Royal (with ginger or coke) and bust that beast up and fix it right. Talk shit about that asswhip Trudeau then, hug, high five, chest bump and i'll get your ass outta my shop. It's easy as shit, just come by. lol
if you were local my buddy id be already on the way with a 2-4 and a crate full of parts :roflmao::bc:
 

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You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
so the best way to remove the skid from what i gather is ;


loosen the 4 bolts holding the skid to the tunnel

shut the fuel off

tip er up on its left side

loosen off the track tension bolts all the way

take tension off the torsion springs

pull front out first

swear a lot

about right?


i didn't loosen the track or take the tension off the springs when i removed the skid from the rmk last year in minus 10 outside...fun times.not thinking at all.
 

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so the best way to remove the skid from what i gather is ;


loosen the 4 bolts holding the skid to the tunnel

shut the fuel off

tip er up on its left side

loosen off the track tension bolts all the way

take tension off the torsion springs

pull front out first

swear a lot

about right?


i didn't loosen the track or take the tension off the springs when i removed the skid from the rmk last year in minus 10 outside...fun times.not thinking at all.
Yeah, but not necessarily in that order. Helps to have a couple cold ones nearby.:bc2:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You can buy the driveshaft bearing kit from all balls part# 14-1004. You get both bearings seals, and hardware for around $25. Removing the driveshaft on this sled is simple and straight forward. Pulling the rear skid takes more time.
to me , the driveshaft bearing on the chaincase side looks fine.

dunno wtf to think of the clutch side driveshaft bearing but it looks like water got in there cause it looks like cotton candy mixed with choclate mousse which cant be a good sign lol.water definitely got in there be my guess.





 

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Discussion Starter #30
the noise in the jackshaft sounds like the pads touching the disc or something?partially stuck on maybe?they should auto adjust as the pads wear no?

normal operation or should I be concerned?
 

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the noise in the jackshaft sounds like the pads touching the disc or something?partially stuck on maybe?they should auto adjust as the pads wear no?

normal operation or should I be concerned?
Disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting. The pads stay in light contact with the disc. Slight disc run out pushes them away enough so they don't drag much.
 

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anything that looks like rust and grease mixed is bad. the drive shaft bearing should be replaced. the purple grease is Polaris o.e.m. grease. i can show pic's of that side bearing on axys and pro-r chassis there is no brown or what looks like rust and greased mixed. even 5-6 years old. all Polaris seal bearings today have white lithium grease in them. the Polaris grease is dyed lithium grease. we use mobil 1 syn. grease. it's red.

the only way unless really bad to check a bearing is in your hand. if there's wear or damage from rust you will feel it. i've seen bearings that looked just fine and seemed to spin just find on the shaft. but were way worse than you would think. if the speedo side bearing has any play or the key has sheered off you need to replace the lower chain case bearing as well. and replace the seal. smear some grease in the lip of the seal before installing the drive shaft.

the sled is a 2005? it's 19 years old. the maintenance has been questionable at best? if it were me i would not skimp at this point. you have it all apart replace all the bearings seal's etc. the chain case is only held on with three carriage bolts. good time to clean it all up anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
anything that looks like rust and grease mixed is bad. the drive shaft bearing should be replaced. the purple grease is Polaris o.e.m. grease. i can show pic's of that side bearing on axys and pro-r chassis there is no brown or what looks like rust and greased mixed. even 5-6 years old. all Polaris seal bearings today have white lithium grease in them. the Polaris grease is dyed lithium grease. we use mobil 1 syn. grease. it's red.

the only way unless really bad to check a bearing is in your hand. if there's wear or damage from rust you will feel it. i've seen bearings that looked just fine and seemed to spin just find on the shaft. but were way worse than you would think. if the speedo side bearing has any play or the key has sheered off you need to replace the lower chain case bearing as well. and replace the seal. smear some grease in the lip of the seal before installing the drive shaft.

the sled is a 2005? it's 19 years old. the maintenance has been questionable at best? if it were me i would not skimp at this point. you have it all apart replace all the bearings seal's etc. the chain case is only held on with three carriage bolts. good time to clean it all up anyway.
yep I already have the bearings , ill do both sides of the driveshaft.


for some reason , I tried getting the rear suspension bolts out, but one broke loose while the other refuses to, it just continues to spin and work the same side out while staying tight on the other.i tried tightening back up the side that broke free and try to get the other side started, no dice.


am I supposed to have the rear elevated or something im not doing right?
 
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Those chaincase's should be installed back with an alignment tool for best performance...we blueprinted my 00 600 ves chassis back in the day. Best is inscribe marks on the bulkhead where the surface of the chaincase sits against so at least it can go back where polaris installed it.
If the chaincase hyvo fluid was changed every year chances are the bearings should be ok. I've seen sleds that were maintained like this from the 90's with close to 10k miles with bearings/seals still good in the chaincase.
 

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yep I already have the bearings , ill do both sides of the driveshaft.


for some reason , I tried getting the rear suspension bolts out, but one broke loose while the other refuses to, it just continues to spin and work the same side out while staying tight on the other.i tried tightening back up the side that broke free and try to get the other side started, no dice.


am I supposed to have the rear elevated or something im not doing right?

You need a long thin open end wrench to hold the insert the suspension bolt is screwed into, I made mine on my mill.
 

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Those chaincase's should be installed back with an alignment tool for best performance...we blueprinted my 00 600 ves chassis back in the day. Best is inscribe marks on the bulkhead where the surface of the chaincase sits against so at least it can go back where polaris installed it.
If the chaincase hyvo fluid was changed every year chances are the bearings should be ok. I've seen sleds that were maintained like this from the 90's with close to 10k miles with bearings/seals still good in the chaincase.
Yup, the bearing boss alignment tool, it's a factory tool but can be ho-made.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
im thinking ill leave the chaincase on , just grease the jackshaft on the clutch side and rmove the suspension and driveshaft to get the new bearings pressed on there.


do I need a tool to align just the driveshaft?youd think it be pretty snug with new bearings ?
 

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You need a long thin open end wrench to hold the insert the suspension bolt is screwed into, I made mine on my mill.
Is it the rear skid bolts or the front ones? For the rear you need that thin open end wrench...can be made by grinding an old wrench of size to the thickness needed. Front skids bolts can be a real pita if frozen. Really need to try cocking the skid a bit as to let it bind and use an impact wrench....or tighten the side thats loose up real good and put a breaker bar on the frozen side and sharply wack it hoping it breaks free. You can try SOME heat on the front torque arm cross shaft, sometimes that helps.
 

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im thinking ill leave the chaincase on , just grease the jackshaft on the clutch side and rmove the suspension and driveshaft to get the new bearings pressed on there.


do I need a tool to align just the driveshaft?youd think it be pretty snug with new bearings ?
No, if your not going to remove the chain case. Once you pull the speedo side flanges and gears in the chain case, just make sure the track is up out of the way of the drive sprockets.....the driveshaft should slide to the speedo side far enough to wiggle it out. Might take a little persuasion to initially slide trough the chain case bearing. Your lucky this sled hasn't 4 sprockets on the driveshaft.:wall:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Is it the rear skid bolts or the front ones? For the rear you need that thin open end wrench...can be made by grinding an old wrench of size to the thickness needed. Front skids bolts can be a real pita if frozen. Really need to try cocking the skid a bit as to let it bind and use an impact wrench....or tighten the side thats loose up real good and put a breaker bar on the frozen side and sharply wack it hoping it breaks free. You can try SOME heat on the front torque arm cross shaft, sometimes that helps.
yep its the front s.left side just spins even when I re tighten the other side and hold it with a socket, instead of the side I want to break free the right side just starts backing off again.:wall:
 
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