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i always put a very thin coating of never seize. i rub it in with my finger till almost nill. comes off easily upon removal. some say it may slip on shaft with a lube. i dont think it ever has.
 

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NEVER EVER FOR ANY REASON PUT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE CLUTCH AND CRANK SHAFT
 

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Do you put a little grease or anti-seize after poping of primary on tapered shaft. It would be nice if it would come off a little easier, while dialing in weights. Thanks[/b]
as most everyone has said....leave the crank dry. also u dont have to pull the primary to change weights,just push the spider section open,lodge it open with somthing and u can change(adjust) the weights with it on the sled :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I usually put a whole bunch of NOTHING on mine. Works 60% of the time, all the time[/b]
What about the other 40%??
was there anything on it when you took it off? NO!!!![/b]
Rust
as most everyone has said....leave the crank dry. also u dont have to pull the primary to change weights,just push the spider section open,lodge it open with somthing and u can change(adjust) the weights with it on the sled :beerchug:[/b]
Alot warmer inside! Don't want my beer to freeze.
 

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I vote is for nothing also, in almost 20 years all I have ever used is that stuff called nothing.



Aaron
 

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O.K. I agree, Do not use TOO much anti-seize. I did and noticed how the primary nearly fell off as I needed to remove it again. I still think a very very small film of anti-seize is OK . Saying Never use anti-seize to the mass public is good advice because sooner or later the very very small film advice is forgotten and too much is being used. I'm thinking it's better than beating on the end of the clutch puller with a 3 pound hammer if it's stuck. I've been there many times. Many good tricks of any trade are not published or advised for this very reason. Sooner or later the public will screw it up. ie. if a little is good a bit more is better. we are all gilty of that. over do, over build, over tighten, over consume. Hey were Americans thats what we do.
 

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NEVER EVER FOR ANY REASON PUT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE CLUTCH AND CRANK SHAFT[/b]
This guy is a Catmaster tech....will easily forget more about sleds than 99% of us will ever know. If you put a film of anti-sieze on your crank you are asking for it to move. If it moves or spins you get to pay $1000 for a new crank.

Do yourself a favor and keep the crankshaft dry. If it has rust take a scotchbrite pad and lightly toutch it to the crankshaft while the sled is running....that will shine it right up.
 

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O.K. I agree, Do not use TOO much anti-seize. I did and noticed how the primary nearly fell off as I needed to remove it again. I still think a very very small film of anti-seize is OK . Saying Never use anti-seize to the mass public is good advice because sooner or later the very very small film advice is forgotten and too much is being used. I'm thinking it's better than beating on the end of the clutch puller with a 3 pound hammer if it's stuck. I've been there many times. Many good tricks of any trade are not published or advised for this very reason. Sooner or later the public will screw it up. ie. if a little is good a bit more is better. we are all gilty of that. over do, over build, over tighten, over consume. Hey were Americans thats what we do.[/b]
I service, or should i say do prevenative maintenance on my clutches often enough that i never need a 3lb hammer, the pop right off, and i use that special stuff called nothing.
 

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Anti-sieze can actually cause metal to have a weld like bond when heated and dryed out..
wich would happen with two parts slipping causeing heat to bulid up.. In this case clutch would probably shoot off.. if not just the oppisite of what you think would happen.. make it stick more..
IM NOT SAYING IN EVERY CASE THIS APPLIES !!! But it does happen !!!

No lubercant is used on the shaft when mounting clutch.. and like someone said.. put grease
in the hole before installing the clutch puller and it'll pop-off easier..


HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL !!!

Steve
 

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Nothing, as the crank end and clutch are a matched taper, it is a press fit, and the proper torque will push the lube out of there. Cat service manual say dry...
 

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Ok, when we yank ours off in drags, their is another trick you can do if it gets stuck. When you can't turn it any further, be very careful when you do this but take your 3/4" wrench that you use or ratchet and hit the top,bottom,left,and right side of that puller bolt. It comes off most of the time. Just don't get too hard on the hitting or you will might screw up the crank. my two cents :div20:
 
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