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a friend of myn has a 1998 srx and hasn't started or moved the sled in over 5 years, it has less then 2000km on it and was fogged and stored properly when put away. He scared himself on it a few years ago and has been terrified since then to ride it(bucked off the machine at over 100mph on the lake) anyways he's ready to give it a go again but doesnt know where to start to get things going again and make sure the sled won't blow up.
 

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Drain all of the fuel out of the tank
Clean carbs(main jet, pilot jet, needle jet, etc.)
clean and synch the powervalves
drain the old oil out of the resivoir and put new oil in.
grease the front, rear suspension and steering
check track condition/tension, hyfax and carbides
open up the airbox make sure there's no mice nests in there. Make sure air filter is in good shape too.
Blow out the pipes and silencer with compressed air to make sure there's no mice nests in there too.
Make sure all fuel and oil lines are in good shape(no cracks/cuts in them)
 

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Drain all of the fuel out of the tank
Clean carbs(main jet, pilot jet, needle jet, etc.)
clean and synch the powervalves
drain the old oil out of the resivoir and put new oil in.
grease the front, rear suspension and steering
check track condition/tension, hyfax and carbides
open up the airbox make sure there's no mice nests in there. Make sure air filter is in good shape too.
Blow out the pipes and silencer with compressed air to make sure there's no mice nests in there too.
Make sure all fuel and oil lines are in good shape(no cracks/cuts in them)[/b]
All good tips, just like to add, after draining the oil, be sure to bleed it, or all your hard work will result in a blown engine.
Also be a good idea to pull off all the idler wheels and inspect/grease/replace the bearings. It is the rear suspension I realize, but many people I know neglect this point and simply hit the nipples they can see with a grease gun and call it a day. At roughly $30-40 a wheel, cheap preventative maintenance.

Hope this helps.
 

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Good points Breaking Bread.

Trail Boss and artibat,

It's probably not necessary to drain the oil but if it was me I'd feel much better knowing I has fresh oil in there instead of 5 year old oil that might be contaminated with something. just my .02
 

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Also remember how to start it w/o fouling plugs at $21 a set. I'd start it the first time with br9es plugs & once it was running good, switch to the ecs type.
 

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Personally I wouldn't drain the oil, all the other stuff sounds goof though. seems like draining it would be a pain and not really get you anywhere, far as I know 2-stroke oil doesnt really "go bad".
 

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Taking out the plugs and pouring a capful of oil in the cylinder before pulling it over wouldnt be a bad idea if it sat that long without being turned over.
 

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a friend of myn has a 1998 srx and hasn't started or moved the sled in over 5 years, it has less then 2000km on it and was fogged and stored properly when put away. He scared himself on it a few years ago and has been terrified since then to ride it(bucked off the machine at over 100mph on the lake) anyways he's ready to give it a go again but doesnt know where to start to get things going again and make sure the sled won't blow up.[/b]

ill take it out of his way if hes too scared to ride it :D
 

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I'd

1.Drain Gas
2.Take bowls off of carbs and see if its nasty in there or not,
If it is, then obviously clean em both.
3. Check airbox for mouse nest.
4. Small shot of 2-stroke or motor oil in both cylinders
5. Add gas and start pulling.

If it runs, then start greasing the chassis / checking the bogey wheels.

just my 2 cents
 
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