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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a little bit of a problem to master in the nearest future.

I'll start out with the specs:
- '05 440 SnoPro with trail tank
- F7 engine, 800-bore, ported, cut jugs, BMP Polaris pistons, APV premix 5% (for the first tank of gas), billet head, extra gasket, 12:1 compression ratio, trued/welded crank, cranksaver
- Speedwerx SX800 twins
- Mod airbox
- Boondocker BMP edition
- Digatro DT-52 RW2T
- ECU BMP edition
- 8T/2.52"P drivers running the '04 440 track with 212 1.860" studs
- Stock 20/46 gearing
- Heel-X with the straight 50° cam, AC red/white spring in position 3 (116)
- SuperTip X-series 60gr packed with 6 gr at bottom, 2gr at mid and 4gr at the top, BM black/orange spring (162/315) '04 fixed pin clutch (which currently is valved about 2.5 mm wider than the width of the belt - will be revalved soon!) 020 belt
- Fuel pressure 48 psi, Boondocker numbers fetched from D&D for a reference fuel map
- 1.5° timing key
- Not using the stock voltage regulator, it's that stand alone styled - mounted on the electrical plate. Does this plate need to be grounded? Also the APV servo and the ignition coil sits on the plate.
- NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!
- F7 wiring harness

Here's problem:
It won't rev past 5000 rpm.
It feels like the ignition is retarded 30°, but it runs pretty good at idle.
Engagement is like 4600 and it'll rev from idle to 4600 quite good, but when running at 4000 rpm and pinning it it'll just bludder and won't rev past 5000 rpm.

What I've done:
- Adjusted the TPS
- Resistance tested every electronic device, and nothing was way out - besides the ignition timing sensor. It read 96 ohms, which is the same as a friends M7 that's currently running stronger than ever. (specs. according to the service manual is like 152-228 ohms)
- I've tried running without the Boondocker
- Ran it with the Boondocker and all numbers at 0 (I've also tried like 20+ on top of D&D's numbers)
- Switched ECU with a friend, which has been reprogrammed for 660 ft snow drags


I took her out for a swim this past spring and haven't run her since then. I was fast on the stopper before she sank, I never pulled the rope until every electronic device was unplugged, all electronics was deassemblied and dried for at least four months before I put them back together. But as all readings from the reistance test said, there's nothing wrong with the stator or igntion coil, or the ECU (as we've switched it).

Also, EVERYTHING on this sled is painted, but the engine is fully grounded (the multimeter beeps loud and clearly). What else besides the engine needs to be grounded?

The engine is totally flushed by fuel, not a single carbon build up anywhere.


What I've not done:
- Tried to have some extra wires, besides the stator ground, connected from the engine to the chassis.
- Figured out how to connect a Speedwerx single LED light to the ECU to have a check engine light. What wire are used for the check engine, and can it be as simple to connect as I don't think it is? =) The wiring harness was modified when I got the sled and they've cut the connector for the cluster instrument, so I can't connect a speedo to the sled... The only two wires that are free, coming out from the ECU, are not wht/yel - which is the color the service manual says would be the check engine wire. If this wire simply gives like +5V, wouldn't it be just so simple that I ground the LED light and get a proper resistance according to the specs of the LED light and it's voltage feeding of +5V? Sounds too easy... =) Could it be anything with the check engine program that could cause this rev problem?


I'm sure I've forgotten some details... Can't think if it right now, though.

Truly grateful for every good answer!
 

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Looking at the wiring diagram for an F-7 EFI the only things I see grounded is the brown wires from the heaters and such and the one you may have an issue with is the ignition coil it needs to be grounded. I am guessing that the servo cables are providing a weak ground which allows it to run but not good. Get the ignition coil grounded and see if that's it. Also the check engine light is orange and white. This comes from my 05 performance manual. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update!

What I've done:
- Adjusted the TPS
- Resistance tested every electronic device, and nothing was way out - besides the ignition timing sensor. It read 96 ohms, which is the same as a friends M7 that's currently running stronger than ever. (specs. according to the service manual is like 152-228 ohms)
- I've tried running without the Boondocker
- Ran it with the Boondocker and all numbers at 0 (I've also tried like 20+ on top of D&D's numbers)
- Switched ECU with a friend, which has been reprogrammed for 660 ft snow drags
- Grounded the ignition coil to one of the brace screws
- Grounded the engine to rear and front brace screws
- TRIED to hook this damn LED up. I've been told it's the orange/white wire from the ECU that's the check engine and it's supposed to give +12V. I've unhooked the water temp. sensor to see if it would give any flashes. It showed nothing on the voltmeter (it should be DC coming out the ECU, shouldn't it) and no LED light flashed either. I suppose the voltage of the Redline LED is (cant' find any specs...) 2.2-2.3 V and the current 30 mA. While testing the LED with a resistor of 480 Ohms and a 12V battery charger it lit up good, but nothing from the orange/white wire from the ECU... THOUGH, when I had disconnected the temp sensor, the ECU ran the fail safe program.
- Removed all hoses lubricating the worm gear (I've got the updated retainer) to rule out any possibility the engine sucking air from some leaking hose or something.

What I've not done:
- Figured out how to connect a Speedwerx single LED light to the ECU to have a check engine light. What wire are used for the check engine, and can it be as simple to connect as I don't think it is? =) The wiring harness was modified when I got the sled and they've cut the connector for the cluster instrument, so I can't connect a speedo to the sled... The only two wires that are free, coming out from the ECU, are not wht/yel - which is the color the service manual says would be the check engine wire. If this wire simply gives like +5V, wouldn't it be just so simple that I ground the LED light and get a proper resistance according to the specs of the LED light and it's voltage feeding of +5V? Sounds too easy... =) Could it be anything with the check engine program that could cause this rev problem?
- Switched ignition coil with the M7
- Checked out the timing with a flashing timing gun
- Switched stator
- Taken all weight of the primary weights neither removed the heavy dish on the inner sheave disc. (think I'll try that first thing tomorrow!)
- Pressure tested the engine
- Cleansed the injectors in the ultrasonic cleaner.
- Checked out the deck height with a thick lead wire.
- Compression tested the engine



The zero reading from the TPS adjustment was way out of specs, but I can't see how that could fail me this bad? At idle I had it adjusted to 0.698 V and specs said 0.697. WOT would show 3.78 or more, mine has 3.82 at WOT.


I've also got two vids were I've tried to tape the behavior of the sled. (will be uploaded soon!)
Please see links below:
http://www.sbt-racing.se/jimmy/1.avi
http://www.sbt-racing.se/jimmy/2.avi
 

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- Not using the stock voltage regulator, it's that stand alone styled - mounted on the electrical plate. Does this plate need to be grounded? Also the APV servo and the ignition coil sits on the plate.

The voltage reg some times depending on the manufacture of it will get grounded by the body of the box of the regulator when bolting to the plate make sure the back side of the box has the paint well sanded off. IF not grounded well and you did get a voltage spike you need to look at the under side of the ECU for a burnt jumper. You will see it in the gel. IF no burnt jumper the ECU is fine. Yes the plate should be grounded.

Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Forgot to add that I've also checked that the flywheel is in place. Or at least; I couldn't get zip tie in more than some centimeter, so the flywheel should be in it's right position to the timing key...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update!

What I've done:
- Adjusted the TPS
- Resistance tested every electronic device, and nothing was way out - besides the ignition timing sensor. It read 96 ohms, which is the same as a friends M7 that's currently running stronger than ever. (specs. according to the service manual is like 152-228 ohms)
- I've tried running without the Boondocker
- Ran it with the Boondocker and all numbers at 0 (I've also tried like 20+ on top of D&D's numbers)
- Switched ECU with a friend, which has been reprogrammed for 660 ft snow drags- Grounded the ignition coil to one of the brace screws
- Grounded the engine to rear and front brace screws
- TRIED to hook this damn LED up. I've been told it's the orange/white wire from the ECU that's the check engine and it's supposed to give +12V. I've unhooked the water temp. sensor to see if it would give any flashes. It showed nothing on the voltmeter (it should be DC coming out the ECU, shouldn't it) and no LED light flashed either. I suppose the voltage of the Redline LED is (cant' find any specs...) 2.2-2.3 V and the current 30 mA. While testing the LED with a resistor of 480 Ohms and a 12V battery charger it lit up good, but nothing from the orange/white wire from the ECU... THOUGH, when I had disconnected the temp sensor, the ECU ran the fail safe program.
- Removed all hoses lubricating the worm gear (I've got the updated retainer) to rule out any possibility the engine sucking air from some leaking hose or something.
- I found an old instrument cluster to have as a check engine light! I'm not sure it the orange/white wire and a ground wire would be enough though? I think there's four wires running to the instrument cluster, which all are grounds?? The solid red wire has the same color as the red for the fuel pump. (this is fetched from the M7) What tha heck?
- Checked the timing with a stroboscope gun. It read 14° + the 1.5° timing key.
- Checked out the deck height with a thick lead wire. Conclusion: The guy who made me the domes has fucked up! I specifically asked for a deck height of x.xx and he made it at least 4/10 mm higher than I told him!
- Compression tested the engine and it was barely 7 kg / 100 psi
- Tested every single wire, for any broken pieces - but none were to be found.



What I've not done:
- Tested the check engine assembly for an error code
- Switched ignition coil with the M7
- Switched stator
- Taken all weight of the primary weights neither removed the heavy dish on the inner sheave disc. (it can't be this)
- Pressure tested the engine
- Cleansed the injectors in the ultrasonic cleaner.
- Removed my "jumper hose" between the rubber intake boots, where the oil lines are supposed to go, and have the small brass pipes plugged for real.
- Replaced the head with a modified stock head
- Removed the extra base gasket
- Grounded the voltage regulator from it's housing to the chassis. Is this really neccessary as it has a grounding from the brown wire?

One thing I can't get is that the TPS, timing sensor, air temp sensor and water temp sensor are all out of specifications when I have them tested - but all the readings are almost exactly the same on the M7!! How can this be??

Both MAG and PTO crankshaft sealings are brand new.
 

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Case solved!

The APV servo doesn't like having a bath once in a while...[/b]
I was just going to say, test the APV motor. I had the same problem on my sled. But i´m happy you found the problem, and now you have to show us a movie with the sled!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was just going to say, test the APV motor. I had the same problem on my sled. But i´m happy you found the problem, and now you have to show us a movie with the sled!![/b]

As I have the APV-servo mounted on the electrical plate switching the servo wasn't an option, for starters.
Had to remove seat, tank and eventually have the space I needed to switch the servo.

I'll see if manage some time tonight to adjust the Boondocker. Anyway, the clutching will be way outta the league.
I've got a complete electrical system from a M7 to restore... =)
 

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Mount the servo motor on it´s original place, then it´s realy easy the adjust the wires and also see if it works
[attachment=413449:DSC00789.JPG]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mount the servo motor on it´s original place, then it´s realy easy the adjust the wires and also see if it works
[attachment=413449:DSC00789.JPG][/b]
Can't...
My fuel pressure gauge sits in that hole nowadays! =)
 
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