Only things I would add are studs and better carbides. I ran the stock carbides for this year but prefer the 8" on my XCR. I will add them on my Boost for next year. I did 3 studs per bar all on the inside. Hooks up well.

 

Have a lot of time on these and can get you what you want if you want to pM me
Mine is 2 2 4
128 total
I have a set of protectors Dan noeth since I’m making my own also a set of hd springs if you want
lots of options

 

Curious what everyone did to their '23s to make them perform. I am 100% trail riding at low elevation (MN / WI) and currently running a '22 XCR 850 128". Weight 215 dry and ride aggressive. I have watched Jesse James videos.

Studs - I will stud either 3-2-3 or 3-3-3. Do the VR1s come with tunnel protectors or do I have to add?

Torsion springs - do I need to upgrade to HD springs? I did on my XCR and it dramatically increased the ride.

Front springs - do I need to upgrade from 80lb to 100lb springs?

Shocks - do I need to revalve for slower rebound?

Clutching - I don't want to spend a lot but want this to launch quickly - I don't need to go over 100mph.

Will add RCA plug and other accessories. Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Which track are you going to order?

 

137"

 

Yesterday I ordered a 24 Boost VR1, so very interested in this post

 

I would add a scratcher or 2. Studs , and I don’t like vr1 shock calibrations. But that is subjective.

 

Im 175#
vr1 129 boost

ice attack xt track
slydog command skis with 6" shaper bars
torsion springs on high
coupler blocks on 3
ifs springs all the way soft
couple turns of torsions into the FTS from full soft

clickers on 3-4 from full soft

she rails

 

From what I see in stock clutches they need weights

 

Considering going with a new Boost also (1.35" lug).
My '23 850 XCR 136" x 1.35" Cobra is studded (162 qty), has adjustable SLP weights with C&A Razors. Feels dialed in pretty much & really like it but want some more (low & top end). I've used Klotz oil in all 3 850's now with great results, should I expect anything different honestly? Would probably set up a Boost similarly after break in I'd think.
I read about tunes...... I know there's additional performance exhausts for the Winders & T-Cats 4S, what about the Poo Boost's exhaust options?
Do these run different max RPM's than NA's?
A lot of questions but it's more money & I'm trying to justify all of this or just keep the XCR another season or two.....
I think I like going faster more than hitting the bumps & feel confident that a VR1 will handle what I'd throw at it in terms of riding trails.
Sorry, not trying to hi-jack this thread I'm glad it got started, Thanks!

 

For starters...
BCM Tune
Bumped up Octane
More clutch weight

 

I am running bcm tune on trail. Others are running bikeman, velocity, and hrss as far as I know. I can comment on bcm since that is my experience.
I did the bcm head mod he has also and it works well. I have pulled a few all stock boost heads putting these on and there is deto. The exhaust options available are loud and imo I hate loud so I’ve run stock. There really is a weight loss gain there and very little hp if any or less. Some people like loud though so not a bash but what I have observed.
The stock clutching isn’t great. I have changed that and run bcm weights with good luck and there are many options there as well. I run a 1 inch with long studs and the sled hooks well in most trail conditions we ride.
The instant response your n/a gives you is better than a stock boost corner to corner. Tune them this is different but that is true stock. It’s not going to be a whole lot more stock vs stock because of the map in them. If you have an 850 and you’re going to spend 10 k to get a boost it may be worth looking at a 900 kit for your sled. Bcm also has a good package I know for this. Also a good tune on a 850 works well too.
So many variables and it really depends on money you want to spend.
If I didn’t push my boost with better fueling and race it like we go and do I don’t know that a well tuned 850 or 900 n/a wouldn’t be my trail sled.
The boost has more potential with fuel and tuning is why I went that route
Bcm tune has been awesome and Boyd has been great to work with.
I love the boost

 

Curious what everyone did to their '23s to make them perform. I am 100% trail riding at low elevation (MN / WI) and currently running a '22 XCR 850 128". Weight 215 dry and ride aggressive. I have watched Jesse James videos.

Studs - I will stud either 3-2-3 or 3-3-3. Do the VR1s come with tunnel protectors or do I have to add?

Torsion springs - do I need to upgrade to HD springs? I did on my XCR and it dramatically increased the ride.

Front springs - do I need to upgrade from 80lb to 100lb springs?

Shocks - do I need to revalve for slower rebound?

Clutching - I don't want to spend a lot but want this to launch quickly - I don't need to go over 100mph.

Will add RCA plug and other accessories. Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Does he need big bores, and tunes and octane boost for that? Honestly, my question would be to the OP, then why a boost?

 

I also ordered a 2024 after a season on my 23
Clutching if you have good traction is a must !
Re valve the shocks for your riding . FTS spring is almost mandatory .....
there are alot of companies making good gains with these, pick one and stick with them !

 

BCM website is limited. Have you been communicating with them thru email? Is there another company or source that sells their products? I do like pics, info & descriptions.

 

I have a bunch of his stuff and can help you if you want to contact me.

 

PM sent - pending response

 

you want to go fast cheap? or better out of the hole? 84 gram E.P.I. weights, and a speed work's 155/300 drive spring. 4-5 lengths over stock. and pulled the stock one right out of the hole.

 

I am looking for out of the hole, not looking for any top speed.

 

That’s impressive 8 - 10g heavier than the n/a. You have a helix to go with that yet… thinking full progressive?

 

Local tuners here have 90-91g weights and still not enough. They’re using tungsten to get the weights heavy because nobody makes ramps heavy enough yet.

 

I need to start working on my sales pitch to my wife why I need a BOOST. Still have 3 years of warranty left on my 850, and would like a couple more years of Polaris tweaking on it.

 

There are
That’s why I asked about tip weight in boost clutching

 

More than just over all weight… distribution of weight and curvature of weight. I know the weight distribution and curvature of an EPI weight, I guess that is why it impressed me.

 

Slp is good on trail and a good weight
Rmk would be lighter correct?
Racing I don’t know that you can load the tip enough which also depends on a lot of variables
He is talking about race and do they have enough tip weight? Guess is no but time will tell.
This isn’t an argument with you
It’s trail vs race and maybe you found something we haven’t?
Stock helix works for trail actually pretty good.
There are others that do also more based off of rider weight. For race stock helix isn’t best but depends on surface and hp levels

 

i was wrong i thought the RMK weights were heavier. they are not. SLP # 40-170 for the RMK/KHAOS are 67 grams empty and 74.8 fully loaded. the flat land boost SLP weights are #40-174 they are 70.5 empty and 78.9 grams fully loaded. the stock Polaris weights do nothing until 1/3 of there total travel. the extended part on the SLP weights make it weight more then it does. recommended starting point on a assault or vr1 is extended tip screw and 2 weighted screws and the lock screw. or 71.1 grams target rpm 8100-8200.

 

To add to your post, my 40-174 weigh 71g and adding extended tip screw,2 weight screws and the lock screw comes out to around 76g. Rpm on an otherwise stock clutching SBA is 8300 + and engagement is bumped up from 3800 to 4300

 

Bikeman clutching with our Snypr weights!

 

Were always maxing weights out. They cant make them heavy enough

 

Our weights go to 112 grams