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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I just put my secondary clutch together the other day on my 1999 xc700. I only had one shim under the helix and my manual says three. So today I took it apart and saw that all three buttons were totaly wiped out. Nothing left of them.
What I installed was a 38X helix and a HSP orange spring in #3 hole. One shim under the helix. Everything was clean. and to assemble it I turned the back half counter clockwise until the helix was on the first ramp it hit. (about 1/3rd turn). What did I do wrong here?? Also, the sled wasn't even rode. I started it, drove it onto the trailer, backed it off and parked it. I have no clue. Very top of helix ramps look to have rubbed through the coating on the helix. Just the very tip of it.

Also now that I'm afraid to run that helix, (unless theres a way to clean up the rough tips) What do I have that comes close and what does each do differently? I have a HSP black primary spring and 62.5 weights. This is a twin piped slightly moded sled. Thanks.

38X
R-11
SLP 52-34
SLP 38-34
 

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The helix ran up past the ramp and cought on the end most likely. The shims are there to shim the helix so it stays on the end of the ramp. Pushes the helix down on the ramp. Aparentlly you need 3.
 

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I think what alsled said,the end of the helix just sheared them off. Reason I ask about the buttons is, some of the aftermarket buttons (not SLP) are soft,cheap POS. Be carefull where you get them.
 

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the steeper the helix the harder they are on buttons,
with a r11 buttons will last forever,
but put a aggressive helix in there, better check your buttons more often, its not uncommon
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea I know. We have a local bike shop here that loves to sell junk parts like that. I went there to get the bottons first and I could tell by looking at them that I didn't want them. So I did have the slps.
 

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You should only need 1-.030" shim under the snap ring with the hot seat helix. With the belt adjuster side of the clutch down, the moveable sheave (top when belt adjuster down) must be tensioned 1/4 turn counter clockwise, before pushing the helix donw all the way to install the snap ring and shim. I would also question that the buttons were worn down, as I have seen the helix hit the aluminum tower when they were too thin. Replace the buttons with SLp or stock polaris. Just order 12 of the polairs ones and change every season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did have 1 shim. The buttons did look good or would have changed them. I installed it just as you discribed, face down and all. They are wiped out flat, even in hight to the aluminum where they press in. Without any ride time on them. Now I'm not sure what the problem was.
 

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Assemble the clutch with new buttons, one washer, NO spring, and lightly coat the ramps with grease.

Then cycle the clutch by hand through out its entire motion.

Dissassemble. The grease will show how far the buttons come to the edge of the ramp.

Due to variances in machining, clutch wear so on and so on I do this to every new helx to assure that its not to close to the edge.

Most of the time you can get away with 1 shim as pockets said. But the only way I found 2 be sure is the way I described above.
Not all parts are identical.

Top speed, stay away from slp helixs, there a pain to make back shift good. Don't like the way there cut.
dalton pros the way to go. 50-36, 50-34. Use weight in the primary to get the desired rpm.
 

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My buddy use to use the slp slippery brute buttons in those old secondarys with the hsp helix....they lasted forever setup properly...said the regular slp slippery buttons were junk...never fit properly either...too loose..He was very meticulate how much shimming was needed to get the correct starting point on the helix ramp and how much belt side pressure was needed and rechecked to get maximum overdrive ablity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I installed new buttons and greased the helix ramps and installed one shim. What I found was the buttons ran all the way up the helix and there was about 1/16th of an inch before it went over the top. I also have a new spare secondary that I tried it on and had about 1/8th inch on the top of that one.(one shim) Maybe with the clutch wear and the bottons with some wear added up to the damage. Don't know. So I set my helix with two shims under it. I don't know how much room I should have at the top of the helix. Think I should be ok here?? Thanks again. Bob.
 

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Well I installed new buttons and greased the helix ramps and installed one shim. What I found was the buttons ran all the way up the helix and there was about 1/16th of an inch before it went over the top. I also have a new spare secondary that I tried it on and had about 1/8th inch on the top of that one.(one shim) Maybe with the clutch wear and the bottons with some wear added up to the damage. Don't know. So I set my helix with two shims under it. I don't know how much room I should have at the top of the helix. Think I should be ok here?? Thanks again. Bob.[/b]
Bob,
The belt deflection adjuster located on the outside of the secondary can make a difference in how far the buttons climb up the helix. If you've adjusted it for a very narrow belt, it may drop off the helix.

My Polaris Race manual says you need only 1 shim. You need 3 shims if your belt is 1 3/8" wide or worn much narrower than 1 7/16".

Lastly, you might have sheared the buttons off when you first pushed the helix down as you were installing the snap ring.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. Mine helix wasn't as bad as the ones shown in the pics. But the buttons were worse. I have a brand new polaris belt on it. How high is the belt supposed to come up out of the secondary when not running? The deflection setting is I think on its loosest setting. #5. Thanks.
 

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belt will be about 1/8 inch up. but from what the dealer & epi says you need to have the belt deflection at 1 1/4 in. Check this with straight edge on top of belt ,pushing down with about 10 pounds of force( kinda lightly) should be 1 1/4 from edge to belt.Do this after reving to spin track then let coast to stop.A small amount on dial will move it a 1/4 inch
 
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