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I’ve owned this sled for a couple years only had it out a hand full of times. I just changed all the fluids and I’m a little concerned about how hot it runs. I’d like to tune it up a bit but my main concern is reliability. I’m not sure where to start so I’m looking for some advice. My belt blew on the weekend to what brand of belt is a good replacement.
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Only use the genuine Polaris Belt... 3211121

When you say it's running hot, what exactly do you mean? What engine temp is it running? Normal thermostats are at 160 deg F or 180 Deg F, depending on the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Only use the genuine Polaris Belt... 3211121

When you say it's running hot, what exactly do you mean? What engine temp is it running? Normal thermostats are at 160 deg F or 180 Deg F, depending on the year.
It is running from 160- 125 when I’m riding. Maybe I’m just being paranoid. I was out for a night ride and the exhaust was glowing at the muffler. Is that normal?
 

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2021 VR1 850. 137 Polaris
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Oh they will glow orange at night ( turbo exhaust housing ) especially if your riding it hard , I had boost engineering reprogram and clutch my 07 and boy she was fun fooled a lot of other larger sleds
 

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2021 VR1 850. 137 Polaris
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The limiting factor for the classic will be the rear suspension take 10 mph right off the top but rode nice. Check the front cogs on the drive axle they liked to wear them out very fast
 

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The OEM belt is the best belt for the FST. It's the only one I've tried that doesn't smell like burning rubber. The fst does get a little hot under the hood sometimes. Installing a vent kit isn't a bad idea but you don't have to if it's just a trail bomber. Installing spindles from the 2008 and up fst or dragons helps reduce steering effort by a large amount and helps also with tracking. I really didn't like my fst until I put the newer spindles on. Spindles can be found cheap on eBay.

Just a start.
 

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First and foremost, the best mod is the 2012 precision sports ECU flash.

It corrects the cold start enrichment, all fuel tables, all spark tables and numerous other things making this engine more efficient. The fuel economy gains are worth it alone.

Clutch springs should be changed every 2,000 miles or every other year.

You can buy the springs from Venom Performance.

You need the 120-340 primary spring (Polaris P85 clutch)

The 155-222 secondary spring (you'll either have a TSS 98 or TSS 04 clutch)

Both springs are an upgrade from factory and provide better backshift and belt life.

Check and set your deflection accordingly.

On the M10 suspension, inspect the front arms for cracks.

The M10 is also rider sensitive. Adjust the FRA for your weight to achieve the best ride.
 
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What @brdmh44 said about the front torque arm. They crack and break and stab your track stopping it, I had it happen at 10mph at 80mph it would hurt. It cost me a track as it was. I don’t think PolarisFiles is still around but check, there was tons of great info there. Good luck, I wish Polaris had worked longer with that nice motor.
 

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Polaris Files is long gone, as is all the information it contained. Very sad that it was lost.

That said, there is a FST Facebook group that is very active with many people ready to help.
 
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Here are some photos that I dug out of the torque arm break. In picture two you can see that the spring sends the two “spears” up into the track. At high speed this ruins the track, tunnel and shock. Do not ignore this area, this was a known problem with the 2006’s, it was not a matter if it was going to break but when it was going to break. I was very unhappy with the Polaris replacement, even though it had a different part number it looked identical. I found a guy in Canada who was making a beautiful heavy duty replacement and I purchased one of his. If you know someone who could reinforce this area do it.

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Yeah, it wasn't just 2006... it was all of the M10 suspensions, and yes, the replacement arms are not any better.

The fix is to take it to a welding shop and have them cut those two upright tubes, and put a solid round piece inside, and then weld back together.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Here are some photos that I dug out of the torque arm break. In picture two you can see that the spring sends the two “spears” up into the track. At high speed this ruins the track, tunnel and shock. Do not ignore this area, this was a known problem with the 2006’s, it was not a matter if it was going to break but when it was going to break. I was very unhappy with the Polaris replacement, even though it had a different part number it looked identical. I found a guy in Canada who was making a beautiful heavy duty replacement and I purchased one of his. If you know someone who could reinforce this area do it.

View attachment 2118909 8 View attachment 2118910
Thanks I’m going to tear the skid out this summer and go over it all. I will definitely take mine out and have it reinforced.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
What @brdmh44 said about the front torque arm. They crack and break and stab your track stopping it, I had it happen at 10mph at 80mph it would hurt. It cost me a track as it was. I don’t think PolarisFiles is still around but check, there was tons of great info there. Good luck, I wish Polaris had worked longer with that nice motor.
I’m sure we will see more 4 stroke motors from Polaris in the near future
 

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Hood vents...SLP made them..not sure if they’re still available. They’re a necessity to get the heat out from under the hood. Might also find some universal frog skin vents. The sled is getting some age on it now, if you’re using ethanol fuel you may want to change your in tank fuel lines in the off season and take a look at the fuel pump, they are notorious for falling apart on the 06. B.
 

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Hood vents...SLP made them..not sure if they’re still available. They’re a necessity to get the heat out from under the hood. Might also find some universal frog skin vents. The sled is getting some age on it now, if you’re using ethanol fuel you may want to change your in tank fuel lines in the off season and take a look at the fuel pump, they are notorious for falling apart on the 06. B.
Those vents also kept the rider nice and warm.
 

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If you’re pulling the skid...add some additional grease zerks to the nongreasable pivot points. You’ll thank me later...no squeaks or sticking spots and less fatigue in the long run. B
 

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Not sure on the m10 skid bolts for sure, but on my 07’s I recommend using a high speed impact gun before anything else. Once the spacer starts to spin( bolts stuck due to corrosion), you’ll never get it apart. Never seize is your best friend when reinstalling. I’m like a pit crew on mine now, I run studded/non studded tracks depending on conditions and have it down to about 15min changes!!! Good luck.. B.
 

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Yeah, it wasn't just 2006... it was all of the M10 suspensions, and yes, the replacement arms are not any better.

The fix is to take it to a welding shop and have them cut those two upright tubes, and put a solid round piece inside, and then weld back together.
Polaris m10. Fast 10s are stronger by a mile.
 
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