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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok Guys

let me throw this out there pre-season water pump rebuilds.

I have been rebuilding water pumps for the XCR 800's
I picked up the mech seal holding tool used to press in the mech seal correctly and to press bearings in.

I am out of stock for bearings, mech seals, seal plates gear shaft orings and
wp case gaskets as the typical parts I have been replacing

I typically dont keep the gear shaft on hand or the impeller as they are big $$$ see below

if there is enough interest and guys that want/need to rebuild their xcr 700/800 based water pumps I will order up bearings and replacement parts

I will charge replacement Parts Costs + $35.00 Labor + return shipping
I am not using Polaris Bearings but have been grabbing quality 6001 2rs and 6002 2rs at $7.00 a bearing.


6001 2rs 7.00
6002 2rs 7.00
3085149 O-RING,(WATER PUMP SHAFT) 1.62 << Needed
3085794 GASKET,PUMP CASING 1 1.94 << Needed
3085175 PLATE,SEALING 19.99 << Needed
3085384 SEAL, MECHANICAL 38.99 << Needed
3085271 Case GASKET, WATER PUMP 1.94 << Needed Included on return
3085270 BOLT 11.99 << Impeller Bolt / Seal Plate
+ 10 New Stainless W/P Casing Pan screws with lock and flat washers for assembly w/ blue loc-tight

so at the minimum replacement Parts cost = $100.00 + $35.00 "my labor" + 10$ return Shipping = 145.00$

But if you need the following parts price increase accordingly and the need to wait for the parts order to to arrive.

3085269 SHAFT,WATER PUMP * 105.69 << If needed
3085174 IMPELLER UNIT 51.99 << If Needed

Send me you're XCR 700 / 800 Water Pump a money order or personal check in the box or gifted paypal, and I'll turn the w/p around in 1 day once I recieve it for $145.00 with the above as a minimum rebuild

if my bearing costs gets decreased I will pass that forward and so will you're cost decrease. but at the moment thats what I am getting charged for bearings is $7.00 Per

But if you need the following parts price increase accordingly and the wait for the order to to arrive.

3085269 SHAFT,WATER PUMP * 105.69 << If needed
3085174 IMPELLER UNIT 51.99 << If Needed

Roger
 

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That is very cool of you Roger.
Pumps are extremely hard to rebuild for the novice.
You are a Good Man!
 

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What RPM are your water pump bearings rated for? I couldnt find any decent ones from partshouses in town for a decent price I found some online for $4 a piece but they are rated for 21000. Have you seen cheaper bearings come apart on these or what kind of bearings are you finding?
 

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Ok Guys

let me throw this out there pre-season water pump rebuilds.

I have been rebuilding water pumps for the XCR 800's
I picked up the mech seal holding tool used to press in the mech seal correctly and to press bearings in.

I am out of stock for bearings, mech seals, seal plates gear shaft orings and
wp case gaskets as the typical parts I have been replacing

I typically dont keep the gear shaft on hand or the impeller as they are big $$$ see below

if there is enough interest and guys that want/need to rebuild their xcr 700/800 based water pumps I will order up bearings and replacement parts

I will charge replacement Parts Costs + $35.00 Labor + return shipping
I am not using Polaris Bearings but have been grabbing quality 6001 2rs and 6002 2rs at $7.00 a bearing.


6001 2rs 7.00
6002 2rs 7.00
3085149 O-RING,(WATER PUMP SHAFT) 1.62 << Needed
3085794 GASKET,PUMP CASING 1 1.94 << Needed
3085175 PLATE,SEALING 19.99 << Needed
3085384 SEAL, MECHANICAL 38.99 << Needed
3085271 Case GASKET, WATER PUMP 1.94 << Needed Included on return

so at the minimum replacement Parts cost = $78.48 + $35.00 + 10$ return Shipping = $123.50

Send me you're XCR 700 / 800 Water Pump a money order or personal check in the box or gifted paypal, and I'll turn the w/p around in 1 day once I recieve it for $120.00 with the above as a minimun rebuild

if my bearing costs gets decreased I will pass that forward and so will you're cost decrease. but at the moment thats what I am getting charged for bearings is $7.00 Per

But if you need the following parts price increase accordingly and the wait for the order to to arrive.

3085269 SHAFT,WATER PUMP * 105.69 << If needed
3085174 IMPELLER UNIT 51.99 << If Needed

Roger
Better replace that impeller bolt and rubber-coated washer too Roger. Then, loctite the bolt in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What RPM are your water pump bearings rated for? I couldnt find any decent ones from partshouses in town for a decent price I found some online for $4 a piece but they are rated for 21000. Have you seen cheaper bearings come apart on these or what kind of bearings are you finding?
to answer you question 27,000 rpm, yes they all come apart after time / mileage being expose to the antifreeze that has the mechanical seal fail

it's the seal that allows coolant to access the bearings that cause the bearings to fail.

even the most expensive bearing would fail if run in anti-freeze for X period of time!!

and No I dont know what X period time is.. :dunno:

Maximum bearing speed is determined by size and design. Generally, the smaller the bearing, the higher its speed capability.
There are many influencing factors to limiting speeds such as:

Cage design and material
Lubrication type and delivery system
Loads
Alignment
Mounting procedure and fit
Seal type
Bearings with contact type seals have a much lower maximum speed when compared to open or non-contact sealed types.

Oil lubricated bearings will have a higher maximum speed than a grease lubricated bearing due to lubricant shear and will run cooler.

A rigid pre-loaded pair of bearings will have a reduced maximum speed when compared to a spring pre-loaded pair.

Along with RPM ratings bearing speed limitations can be expressed using the following formula:

dN=Bearing bore in millimeters multiplied by RPM

dN values can be assigned to bearing types and their components such as retainers and lubricants.

For example precision angular contact bearings should be limited to around 850,000 dN.

Deep groove radial ball bearings with standard metal retainers should not exceed around 250,000 dN.

Of course with modifications to materials and design these values can be exceeded such as improved retainer design,
ceramic hybrids, and improved lubrication processes.




Two rubber seals = (2RS), also available with a single rubber seal = (RS).

Attributes Values
Bearing Type Sealed
Bore Dia (d) 12.0000
Outer Dia (D) 28.0000
Width (B) 8.0000
Radius (min) (rs) 0.300
Dynamic Load Rating (Cr) 5100
Static Load Rating (Cor) 2400
Max Speed (Grease) (X1000 RPM) 27 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<or 27,000 RPM
Max. Shaft Shoulder Dia. Inner (Ui) 17.2
Min. Housing Shoulder Dia., Outer (Uo) 25.500
Ball Qty 8
Ball Dia (Dw) 4.7620
Weight (g) 22.00
Precision A1
Standard Clearance C0
Material 52100 Chrome steel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Better replace that impeller bolt and rubber-coated washer too Roger. Then, loctite the bolt in place.
Phil I always use loc-tight "blue" if bolts look compromised and rusted I agree
and I have not been replacing that rubber coated washer. but will add that to the list that gets changed. :bc:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
do you do other pumps besides the 800, like off a 700 xc,just curious

Marty, I would do them, but I would expect you "being from "Winnipeg Canada" find a better deal than to be dealing with shipping a water pump / housing to the states for rebuild.


Roger
 

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Re: "it's the seal that allows coolant to access the bearings that cause the bearings to fail.
even the most expensive bearing would fail if run in anti-freeze for X period of time!!
and No I dont know what X period time is.. "

I have had a few of these apart now, and do not like any kind of "time bomb" related parts, but many are inevitable on any vehicle.
Here is my latest thought on the coolant getting into the bearings: If the "weep hole" worked properly, we would loose coolant before loosing the bearing, and the shaft that commonly gets wrecked, before we even knew we had a problem.
I think the solution is to drill a vent hole in the upper part of the cavity, and add a drain tube to the bottom weep hole, going to a small catch bottle. Then a simple visual check of the bottle will tell you right away when a re-build is needed. It should prevent any coolant from getting into the bearing. Anyone else think this would work?
 

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Re: "it's the seal that allows coolant to access the bearings that cause the bearings to fail.
even the most expensive bearing would fail if run in anti-freeze for X period of time!!
and No I dont know what X period time is.. "

I have had a few of these apart now, and do not like any kind of "time bomb" related parts, but many are inevitable on any vehicle.
Here is my latest thought on the coolant getting into the bearings: If the "weep hole" worked properly, we would loose coolant before loosing the bearing, and the shaft that commonly gets wrecked, before we even knew we had a problem.
I think the solution is to drill a vent hole in the upper part of the cavity, and add a drain tube to the bottom weep hole, going to a small catch bottle. Then a simple visual check of the bottle will tell you right away when a re-build is needed. It should prevent any coolant from getting into the bearing. Anyone else think this would work?
Nice idea, but it wouldn't have worked in my case Randy. Luckily, I decided to rebuild my pump at 8000 miles before it started leaking, as the inner bearing was shot and about to fail. Probably would have taken the gear out too. The outer bearing was fine. No evidence at that point of a coolant leak. The bearing seal was out of place and there was dirt/corrosion in the races. Caught it just in time.:shocked:
 

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Nice idea, but it wouldn't have worked in my case Randy. Luckily, I decided to rebuild my pump at 8000 miles before it started leaking, as the inner bearing was shot and about to fail. Probably would have taken the gear out too. The outer bearing was fine. No evidence at that point of a coolant leak. The bearing seal was out of place and there was dirt/corrosion in the races. Caught it just in time.:shocked:
Yes, I'm sure it won't help them all. The ones I've seen had coolant in the first bearing, and that caused the failure. Another we just rebuilt was leaking again, and would have shown up sooner with the catch bottle. When I poked a tooth pick up into the weep hole, coolant would come out a little at a time, obviously air locked so it didn't just run out like it should have.
I'd guess around 4,000 miles, or 3 to 4 seasons max, is the longest I'd trust these bearings to go before I get nervous, and replace them just to be safe from now on.
I am also going to make a driver to get the bearing out without wrecking the seal, so I can replace the bearing if the seal is still doing it's job.
 

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to all of you about water pump rebuild,don't forget to never use water wetter or additifs similar to it into any sled or applications,it will cauze the pump to fail and freeze the coolant flow,cauze those stuff aren't intended for cool or cold freezzing conditions at all,polaris has already making serious advices about that since many years yet,better to choose the right coolant for your applications,the motul is one of the highest high temp protection capacities coolant available for racing.the maxima coolanol is not bad at all too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Folks I am adding 11.99 for the needed impeller shaft bolt and seal

3085270 BOLT 11.99

+

6001 2rs 7.00
6002 2rs 7.00
3085149 O-RING,(WATER PUMP SHAFT) 1.62 << Needed
3085794 GASKET,PUMP CASING 1 1.94 << Needed
3085175 PLATE,SEALING 19.99 << Needed
3085384 SEAL, MECHANICAL 38.99 << Needed
3085271 Case GASKET, WATER PUMP 1.94 << Needed Included on return
3085270 BOLT 11.99 << Impeller Bolt / Seal Plate
+ 10 New Stainless W/P Casing Pan screws with lock and flat washers for assembly w/ blue loc-tight

so at the minimum replacement Parts cost = $100.00 + $35.00 "my labor" + 10$ return Shipping = 145.00$

But if you need the following parts price increase accordingly and the need to wait for the parts order to to arrive.

3085269 SHAFT,WATER PUMP * 105.69 << If needed
3085174 IMPELLER UNIT 51.99 << If Needed

Roger
 

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The bolt and washer may take a long time to get Roger. I ordered 6 rebuild kits in early spring from Babbitts. Every thing but the bolt and washer came within a week or so. Just a month ago finally received the bolts and washers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Phil i checked yesterday and my dealer said they are available

Nothing back ordered

:thumbup:

Sent from Snowmobile.com App
 

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Rubber coated washer is the most important part of the rebuild if you don't want leaks once its done... Bolt can be reused most of the time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep agreed

I have been using crankcase sealer on my own pumps to seal off under the impeller bolt / washer

And will use new bolt rubber coated washers as polaris does not seperate the 2 for $$$ reasons 11.99

Sent from Snowmobile.com App
 
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