[jleosnow]

RacerX,

Apply the emergency brake lock on the brake lever, this will 'hold' it from turning.


1) No, the secondary will not fly off, it will simply slide off the shaft.

2) No special tools needed, assemble opposite of the way you take it apart.

-John

 

[1FastCat]

Make sure you assemble it exactly how it was because it is balanced. The best way is to use a magic marker or somthing and draw lines so you can line it back up after. Also, it is easier with two sets of hands or a vise when you are reassembleing and putting the spring back in.

 

[jleosnow]

1FastCat,

Good advice!
-John

 

[RacerX]

1FastCat

I'm not sure I understand what to mark. What is balanced, the sheaves?

 

[GF7PE]

once the clutch is off use a roll of duct tape or something like it to sit the clutch on. when you take the nuts off the cover be carefull, the cover has some spring to it. remember which hole the spring is in on the cover.

 

[Guest]

look at the pic on the two plates that run on your belt have a mark on the back side it's a line marked right in the metal make sure you take note where they line up, everyone I've see the lines match up.
1 put park brake on,
2 with 1/2 inch wrench/socket remove centerbolt and washers, watch for key on driven shaft, it's best to have keyway on top of shaft rotate if nessesary.
3 take note of shive possitions and place on role of ducttape or equvilent. Remove three 1/2 inck nilock nuts, be careful of spring tension, remove roller Plate assembly (#9 figure)
4 remove spring, remove stock helix.
5 reverse this order to reasemble
as long as you take your time and watch what your doing you'll be a pro in no time.

 

[RacerX]

Ok, thanks a lot to all. I think I've mustered enough courage to do this job. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[mainecat]

Put some Never-Sieze on the shaft before reinstalling.

 

[RacerX]

Ok, got it done!! Thanks for all the help guys, especially the duct tape tip was key to me getting this thing done quickly. Mainecat, I've got a new tube of anti-sieze. But, it says it is not high-speed anti-sieze. Is there a different type I should get? Should I wipe off all the grease that's on the shaft now before using this stuff. I had two small washers come out, along with the key when I pulled the clutch off; I guess this is a shim washer? With the new helix, does anything change with that part? I'm going out to the garage to put the clutch back on and do the cams.

P.S. What is the torque spec for the clutch bolt

 

[jleosnow]

Originally posted by RacerX@Dec 21 2002, 12:33 PM
P.S. What is the torque spec for the clutch bolt

RacerX,

19-24 ft. lbs is the torque spec. on the secondary clutch mounting bolt.
-John