Hardcore Sledder banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My XC8 is in the garage and I am pretty bored so I may as well work on it. I tried to find a thread giving a rundown on how to clean them, but the search feature isn't working I only had patience for ten pages. Anyone?

Also, anyone got links to previous posts about the correct jetting, clutching and suspension for an stock sled, aggressive rider in relatively low elevations that weighs 210 with gear?


I would test and tune myself, but, I am in the Notheast.

I appreciate any help, I know this stuff gets asked all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,705 Posts
Ok, here’s the short version. I’m more use to the xcr motors so bear with me.

Take out the bolts holding the valve housing to the motor. I think on the xc you have to take the cover bolts out first.
Next pull the housing away from the motor with care not to rip the gasket. Use a razor knife if you have to. Make note of which way the valve is positioned (chamfer up or down).
Now heat the nut that is on the end of the valve with a propane torch to loosen the lock tight.
Next hold the valve in your hand and remove the nut.
Take the diaphragm off and slide the valve out of the housing.
I always soaked the valves in carb cleaner for a couple hour to clean them.
Do NOT use a wire wheel to clean them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
I always use a wire wheel to clean mine and have never had an issue. :dunno: As long as you dont put a lot of pressure on the valve you wont damage it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
here is what I got, I am gonna go out on a limb and say that this is pretty bad and I want to clean that diaphragm right down to clean rubber?

FYI, you don't have to remember which way is right-side up, they will only go all the way back in the correct way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,705 Posts
Yes they are bad. That oil on the diaphragm is normal, but wipe it off. I was told by a Polaris Tec that the valves had a coating on them of some sort and not to use a wire wheel on them. Don’t forget to use some lock tight when you put them back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,182 Posts
I think keeping your valves clean is one of the best things you can do for your machine performance wise. I always notice a huge improvement in my sled at least when my valves are fresh. Make sure to really check the bellows for small crakcs and tears. I just recently had to replace both sets of mine because of this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
Yes they are bad. That oil on the diaphragm is normal, but wipe it off. I was told by a Polaris Tec that the valves had a coating on them of some sort and not to use a wire wheel on them. Don’t forget to use some lock tight when you put them back together.[/b]
That coating does not last that long. I also use the wire wheel lightly per polaris tech.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,613 Posts
There is no need to remove the nut on the end of the valve to clean them. Just the 4 bolts on the cover are all that is necessary. I have heard of many people breaking the valve when trying to remove the nut.

Also - Rob's original how to pages included a full write up on cleaning the VES. However I cannot find it with the recent changes on here.

And yes - those look dirty!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is no need to remove the nut on the end of the valve to clean them. Just the 4 bolts on the cover are all that is necessary. I have heard of many people breaking the valve when trying to remove the nut.

Also - Rob's original how to pages included a full write up on cleaning the VES. However I cannot find it with the recent changes on here.

And yes - those look dirty!![/b]


I know that I dont have to pull the valve all apart, but I choose to because of the severe level of gooey black shit on the valves. I have them swimming in Carb Cleaner right now. Lot easier and uses less cleaner if I pull them all apart. Next time I will not have to pull them all apart... hopefully.

My nut on the end came right off, pretty sure there wasnt any Lock-Tite in there. Will fix that this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have 2 completely different part numbered valves here, not right in front of me right now but something like 755-01 and 112-02. I just checked the Polais parts calolog on the website and they appear to have the same valve in the left and the right. I probably wouldn't have checked the numbers but one is a different collor metal now that they are cleaned. Anyone have any idea what is going on? Anyone have any idea which goes in the left and which goes in the right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have been using the polaris oil, but that was only 400 miles or less last winter. I want to say the previous owner used it too, but I am not certain. Sled has 2500 miles on it, probably never seen a cleaning.

I ended up using a razor blade to get the crap off there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,037 Posts
There has been several updated valves since 2002. they went from the original aluminum, to anodized aluminum, to stainless steel.
My guess is the previous owner had one brake, worp or crack. Both versions of the aluminum are junk and are just waiting to grenade your motor when you are 50 miles from no ware. My 03 800 took out 2 of them before going to the Stainless steel valves. get those aluminum ones out of there.
Ticking time bomb!!!!

BOOOOM
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top