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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried out the F1000 this weekend on 2000' feet of grass, with a dusting of snow. No miles on sled yet but with only Bullseyes sled just doesn't feel that fast, felt better after a few passes, but it sure doesn't feel like an 1000 should. It was easily spinning 7500-7600 rpm(I'm guessing this will climb to 7700-7800 after breakin and in lower load conditions(snow)), way too much and clutching felt very light like the motor wasn't working at all. I wonder if the clutching on the sled is like Doo's "6" on the primary clickers to get past the emissions and sound regs?

Stock the sled has 70G Primary Weights and a 38 Helix. In general I like to keep the Front relatively light so it is more responsive in the trail but would like to try a Helix that when you hit it the sled goes to about 6800-6900 and then climbs to 7200 on top. Any ideas for what angle. Is the general rule of thumb two degrees for every 100 revs?

I'm thinking of something like an 46-42. Any thoughts?
 

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That sled studded yet? How many miles on the sled? Belt even broken in yet? You were SEEING 7500-7600??? If so, that is WAY too high – like 300-400 RPM too high, but it sounds like you already know that. Sorry, no ideas on the clutching yet... hard to test and tune when the sled's been sitting in the garage waiting for snow for over three weeks now. – Roy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sled has 14" track with 170 1.175 Megabites, with outside bars studded every third lug. Only 4-5 Miles on sled. I have a 2000' grass runway on our farm which I use to break sleds in on. I putter around for a few minutes do a few passes, ride some of the grass trails around the farm and then come back. Even when there is no snow, there are a few ponds for cooling, cooling lights never come on!

Sled only had 5-6 miles on it. It just feels like the clutching is not taking advantage of all the torque this engine is making, it almost revs too fast.
 

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FWIW, I'm a FIRM believer in proper belt break-in, especially with this particular belt, and I wouldn't come to any conclusions and/or make any changes until you have at LEAST 30+ miles on the belt, and better yet, until you're past the 100 mile mark and through the first tank of gas. It DOES sound like we're going to have to work on the overall clutching of these things however. Looks to me like we should be shooting for 7100-7200 RPM for best performance. – Roy
 

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These sleds were factory clutched for the 15" X 1" track. The 14" track should lighten the load somewhat and could contribute to the over-rev. Plus the Bullseyes are said to add a few HP which should also contribute to the high R's.
 

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Break in your belt...Takes roughly 50 miles to properly break in. If you look at the belt edges, it's very square, after break-in, it'll be at the proper angle (28 degrees) and you should notice a big gain. My F1 has 170 studs in it and no mods yet....After putting on the miles and the belt breaking in......S-W-E-E-T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Interesting how D & D's clutch kit in stock/ready posts are up at the same time the "stock" clutching "sucks" posts start... gotta love the internet.

Also, interesting how the gotta have a Y-Pipe or bust posts have gone away...

"Keep your eyes peeled" quote Batman to Robin.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well as the author of this thread, I can say that I did call D&D today, nothing is in stock and not that friendly on the phone, basically I felt like I was bothering them. I asked if they ship to Canada, as trying to get anything out of D&D Canada is impossible I've had a Y-pipe on order for three months. They weren't sure but said it would be weeks for a Y-pipe anyways, I asked how to order an F1000 helix off the website and someone put me on hold and never came back I gave up after 10 minutes. Over the years I have spent a ton of money on mods and basically D&D has sucked from a customer service standpoint everytime I have talked to them. When I called if I had got the right answers I would have ordered a Y-pipe, clutch kit, Single Pipe, Boondocker and clutch tools. Basically I felt like spending some money today.

I then gave Dan a call at the Outdoorshop. Dan picked up the phone himself and was very friendly I had a few Helix's a Speedwerx Y-pipe and all the tools to work on the clutches on the way in minutes.

So this wasn't a attempt to help D&D sell some clutch kits. From what I have learned about the clutching on the 1000 it seems like all it really needs is more helix in the back to load the motor more.
 

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well for what you say you want,, i would say a blue dd drive spring,, and big dogs weights, 2x 67gs and 2x 69gs and a 48-38 helix .. or their ccd 75 ,, it will spin to 6900-7000 then creep to 7100-7200.. full shift out also if you want a little more rpms full shift out use their yellow .. 7300.7400,. keep in mine if you use the shift assist it will cost you about 100 rpm
 

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The shift assist consists of three washers that goes behind the secondary spring. There are two thin flat washers and one washer with tiny bearings in it. The two flat washers pancake the bearings and this allows the spring to move when compressed. Opposed to binding against metal and coil binding.
 

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Roy, if your using the stock helix it replaces the one washer under the spring. If using the DD helix/cover it replaces the same one and you leave the other two out also when you put the nylon adjuster in. The loctite "viper lube" goes ON the bearing, not the bolts.
 

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I have the shift assist, and a dalton helix with dalton helix cover plate. It doesn't say whether or not to use the two black washers that went against the helix. This dalton cover is designed to use the stock bolt with aluminum cover that holds the shims to adjust deflection, not the older style threaded adjuster, as this cover is smooth in the center hole and not threaded. Would I assume that I will still use those two black nylon rings with this, or just one? Anyone know for sure?
 
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