I moved my ignition coil to see if it would cure the huge delay in my tach but it didn't do anything at all. I don't know if moving it is just for misreadings on the tach but it doesn't work for the delay fix.
Originally posted by Nick@Dec 9 2002, 11:56 AM Where did you guys move it to? Did you flip it or just move it? Maybe someone can add some pics of the move.
Originally posted by Skydog@Dec 9 2002, 06:40 PM So when you turn it, you are making it so the wires that were on the top are on the bottom now?
Thankyou
Skydog
OK, lets try to clarify this silly issue right now so we can all get our gauges working PROPERLY like they shoud've been from the factory! :angry:
Someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong here, as I'm simply trying to interpret the posts I've read on this subject.
My take is, is that you do NOT rotate the coil 180 degrees end for end, but rather, FLIP it over 180 degrees, in a sense, turning it upside down, and the plug wires will still be coming out facing the rear of the sled.
Will someone please verify that this is indeed correct, or please correct me if this is wrong. Thank you!!! -- Roy
P.S. If ANYONE from Cat or a dealer is reading this, is this the correct/best remedy to this so far unacceptable coil/tach interference situation?!?!?!?!?
Originally posted by Roy T@Dec 9 2002, 08:42 PM OK, lets try to clarify this silly issue right now so we can all get our gauges working PROPERLY like they shoud've been from the factory! :angry:
Someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong here, as I'm simply trying to interpret the posts I've read on this subject.
My take is, is that you do NOT rotate the coil 180 degrees end for end, but rather, FLIP it over 180 degrees, in a sense, turning it upside down, and the plug wires will still be coming out facing the rear of the sled.
Will someone please verify that this is indeed correct, or please correct me if this is wrong. Thank you!!! -- Roy
P.S. If ANYONE from Cat or a dealer is reading this, is this the correct/best remedy to this so far unacceptable coil/tach interference situation?!?!?!?!?
Thanks ZREFIRIDER, that's what I was looking for, someone to just confirm that I understood this correctly, and boy am I glad that cures this silly problem because I can't wait to get this baby broken-in and then really dialed-in... but it sure does help to have a properly functioning guage, if you know what I mean!!! -- Roy
How can turning it 180 and not fliping it help? The wires are still coming out of the top and one would think they would still interfear being there still basically in the same place. <_<
Originally posted by big jugs@Dec 10 2002, 09:51 PM How can turning it 180 and not fliping it help? The wires are still coming out of the top and one would think they would still interfear being there still basically in the same place. <_<
I understand that but the two plug wires coming out of the top of the coil are resting RIGHT UNDERNEATH the wires for the tach/speedo, when you flip it, they are both still RIGHT UNDERNEATH the same group of wires. But if it works, what the hell!!!
Originally posted by big jugs@Dec 10 2002, 10:51 PM I understand that but the two plug wires coming out of the top of the coil are resting RIGHT UNDERNEATH the wires for the tach/speedo, when you flip it, they are both still RIGHT UNDERNEATH the same group of wires. But if it works, what the hell!!!
OK, you guys aren't gonna' believe this, but I just got done doing mine, and of course between my bud and I we managed to ASSUME that the damn thing had to be rotated 180 degrees upside down so that the plug wires are facing down in order to distance them from the tach/speedo gauge wiring. Don't laugh, it's the only thing that made sense to us, and will likely take care of the problem, however, as you can imagine, this make for a pretty tight stretch between the mag plug wire and the mag plug now. If all you really had to do in the first place was rotate it 180 degrees (NOT end for end) than I think I'd like to go through the !@#$% hassle of doing it that way. BUT... I've now lost how the original orientation of how the coil was. Could someone that has done this rotation fix please give me some clues as to how I can now know if I've got the coil in the new and improved rotated orientation? I don't think you can tell by looking at the main plug wires on top, but I think the two smaller wires on the bottom are located on one side. So should they be on the side facing forward or the back side of the coil? I don't have any snow to go and test, so I'd REALLY like to get this right once and for all BEFORE the snow gets here again. Thanks for your time and patience in helping explain and clarify this stupid issue! -- Roy
Concerning my last post, could someone PLEASE take a look at your "fixed" rotated coil and let me know how the new, proper orientation is supposed to be? I'd like to get this fixed once and for all. If you don't understand my question, please reply back. Thanks a million!!! -- Roy
Originally posted by Roy T@Dec 11 2002, 01:40 PM Concerning my last post, could someone PLEASE take a look at your "fixed" rotated coil and let me know how the new, proper orientation is supposed to be? I'd like to get this fixed once and for all. If you don't understand my question, please reply back. Thanks a million!!! -- Roy
LOL! Pat, I NOW understand that -- the plug wires will STILL be coming out the top. As I said, I already goofed and installed the !@#$%% thing bass ackwards with the wires coming out the bottom -- which leaves the mag plug wire almost too short. So now, in my quest to get it installed correctly, I have NO idea how the original orientation of the coil was, because the top will look the same regardless... agreed?! IF I remember correctly, the two smaller wires on the bottom of the coil were at one end of it. WHICH END should they be at with the coil installed in the NEW, ROTATED position -- on the bottom of the coil toward the *FRONT* of the sled, or on the bottom of the coil towards the *REAR* of the sled??? I think we're on the same wavelength now, so if you could please help me with this last little detail, I'd SURE appreciate it and owe you a beer!!! -- Roy
P.S. If we can't figure this out via this forum, I'd love to give you a call when I'm in the shop if you wouldn't mind!!!
Pat, bear with me here, I think we're getting REAL close to getting my silly situation back on track! I must keep in mind, that's it's likely VERY possible that these coils were installed at the factory with no concern as to the coil orientation. This might explain why some (many???) guys are having tach/coil interference, and others are just fine.
I just got off the phone with a bud that has NOT rotated his, and he's not having any problems, but he also moved and zip tied a few wires several weeks ago that may have taken care of his problem if his would've been prone to this.
Anyway, he said the bottom of the coil is kinda' shaped like a boat -- one end flat, and the other slightly pointed. HIS coil is oriented so that the flat end is towards the back of the sled, and the pointed end is towards the front of the sled. Also, concerning the two small wires coming out the bottom of the coil, the orange wire is on the left side (driver side; PTO side; side closest to the clutches), and the black wire is on the right side (passenger side; MAG side; side closest to the brake disc).
Is your "fixed" rotated coil in the same orientation as the above description, or is yours opposite of this???
The wire coming out of the coil are CLOSEST to the bulk head, or the ground (so they are really hard to see because the are almost on the "underside" of the coil.
This would make sense that these wires, before rotated, were right next to a big clump of wires.
OK, I think that helps a lot Pat. So the two smaller wires on the bottom of your rotated coil are closer to the REAR/BACK of the coil than they are to the front of it. That description does sound the opposite of my bud's description of his, which has NOT been rotated. Based on that info, I think I've FINALLY got it. That damn gauge better work perfectly when I get done with this! Thanks again Pat! -- Roy
(Funny how some of these issues never seems to come up when Cat's testing their new sleds for those thousands of miles, and somehow we can find them in 10 miles or less!!!)
I'm going to jump in here for just one small comment. I have written about this on other threads in this forum but they get lost. I realize that what both of you have done appears to be working, but, in the event it still doesn’t try this....(and by the way I got this direct from Greg Spalding at Race School last month what I'm telling you is no BS. Cat knew of this tach issue big time at Race School and told everybody there to do this to the coil....: Remove it from the bulkhead by snipping the zip ties; RELOCATE IT by zip tying it ONTO THE COOLANT HOSE that is running directly behind the motor; making sure the FAT Spark plug wires are coming out from UNDERNEATH the coil with the small wires of the coil coming out from the TOP.
If what you've done works, great. Also, are you aware of the wires by the secondary clutch causing the tach to read improper too?
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hardcore Sledder
8.8M posts
150.6K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to snowmobile owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, trails, riding tips, modifications, classifieds, accessories, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!