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Discussion Starter #1
99 Xc 500 (Gen 2)

Having trouble removing my trailing arm bolt. The rear bolt by the footwell. I have removed the nut and the bolt spins but cant get it out. Tried getting behind the head with a slide hammer to hammer it out but no luck. Cant really get a good bite on it. I think the bolt my be bent a touch.

Also My lower radius arms where they go up under the tunnel and meet each other. There are 4 pan head bolts that go up into the tunnel that hold the standoff bracket covering the tie rods. Two of the nuts are exposed inside and the other two seem to be buried?

Are there any tricks to getting at these? Dont wanna start butchering stuff up if i am just overlooking something from lack of experience.
 

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On your trailing arm check inside the machine to make sure that there is not a nut on the end of the bolt. I have seen that set up on some models but can't remember which ones. According to the Polaris parts website there should be a nut on the inside to the steps tube that the trailing arm bolt slides through.
Interior radius rod bolts go through front part of bulkhead that has the shock towers and nuts for them should be located in the valley behind it that holds the steering linkage. The Polaris parts website (https://www.polaris.com/en-us/parts-manuals/) is a good resource for getting a shot of how things go.
 

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He said he already removed the nut, I suspect the trailing arm bushing is spinning in the trailing arm and won't pull/unscrew outwards to remove it. Perhaps use an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel and simply cut the bolts head off and then use a zip gun to push the bolt out inwards.
 

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For your footwell bolt: google visegrip slide hammer, or do what the folks in body shops do: weld something to the bolt head that you can grip really well with a slide hammer. A short piece of threaded rod that you can attach your slide hammer to would work nicely. This is all provided you have access to a mig welder.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the good ideas guys. I took a pair of vise grips and tied them to my slide hammer using some hardware already w no dice. I think as suggested above the bushing is seized.

I am tempted to lay the sled on its side and cut the bolt with a sawzall, tight to both sides of the trailing arm. Any reason why this would be a bad idea?

Also on the radius arm, i read somewhere the tie rod was threaded into the arm and i could basically leave that part in the bulkhead and just unthread the arm itself. Is this true?
 

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Thanks for the good ideas guys. I took a pair of vise grips and tied them to my slide hammer using some hardware already w no dice. I think as suggested above the bushing is seized.

I am tempted to lay the sled on its side and cut the bolt with a sawzall, tight to both sides of the trailing arm. Any reason why this would be a bad idea?

Also on the radius arm, i read somewhere the tie rod was threaded into the arm and i could basically leave that part in the bulkhead and just unthread the arm itself. Is this true?

Probably would work, do you have a angle grinder? That's how I always cut off the bolt heads using a very thin metal cutting disc. The discs are 4" diameter and can get in to that area.

quote: "Also on the radius arm, i read somewhere the tie rod was threaded into the arm"

Are you asking about the tie rod or the radius rod??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
quote: "Also on the radius arm, i read somewhere the tie rod was threaded into the arm"

Are you asking about the tie rod or the radius rod??[/QUOTE]

Well i need to replace the radius rod cause the ski side of the rod snapped. But on the bulkhead side the tie rod - or rod end - that is on that end of the radius arm (where both left and right lower radius arms meet each other) is tucked underneath a standoff bracket i cant seem to unbolt (two of the pan head bolts are buried inside the belly pan - appears to be inaccessible???
Anyways instead of removing the rod end can't i just unthread it from the broken radius arm?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok cutting the bolt was a terrible idea. I ended up cutting into the trailing arm mount which i think is part of the foot well? Could anyone confirm?
 

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Looks like a real pain to remove that foot well. I didnt cut through the sleeve, just into it so i filled the kerf with weld. And i have a trailing arm on the way.

Just wondering. When should the trailing arm bushings be replaced. They seem to be solid. No slop. Also the foam donut. When should these be replaced?
 

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Don't know what foam donut you mean? There's a spherical bearing thats encased in a nylon body thats pressed in the arm held in place by a circlip....bolt/washer goes through it with a nylock nut on the inside. I've replaced these bearings when they become sloppy. If you grab the arm when on the sled, and feel excessive play, or movement, imo, its time to replace that bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the response. Makes sense.

Sorry for bad terminology "foam donut"

This thing (see pic) what is it?

Was a surprise to me, but seemed like foam when i pulled it out w pliers
That bearing is toast <img src="http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/images/smilies/pointlaugh.gif" border="0" alt="" title=":pointlaugh:" class="inlineimg" />
Don't know what foam donut you mean? There's a spherical bearing thats encased in a nylon body thats pressed in the arm held in place by a circlip..
The trailing arms in my 00xcsp are from a 99xc. The rear bearing is all steel with a foam donut next to it.
The pic is of the "donut" not the bearing. 5811629 Foam Trailing Arm Mount
According to schematics. Should this be replaced? Not sure of its intended purpose it is very soft
 

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Shock absorbing so you don't snap off the bolt which used to happen occasionally before the rubber was used in older models sleds.
 

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Back in the day polaris used a hard rubber insert with a sleeve inside similar to leafs on a vehicle. We use to replace them with the delrin trailing arm kit. I can't recall trailing arms with foam donuts. All the ones i've seen never had anything like that.
 
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