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At race school last month Cat gave us a part number for the tool to remove the clip on the drive shaft. The Cat part number they gave us was 0644-581. They listed it as a Blackhawk lock ring-PT-1266.

I did order one and this is what is looks like.

I bought a pair of these last year. Work very well.
 

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Quick question:
I am installing an Ice Cobra 1.6 on my 14 xf. Track has car type studs. Do I need tunnel protectors.....
 

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Junkmaster your studs ruined my riding week. Holeshotting them 2 times racing my buddies they were all junk. Number 1 they are about twice as heavy as the competitors studs and backers and wear out about 10x as fast. Number 2 The studs were broomsticks after 1 holeshot. Complete garbage. Ive ran woodys triggers, roetin hornets for a full season and looked better than yours after one ride. Even the studboy lake racers hold up 5x better than the junkmasters.
 

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Installed my new exvolute drivers yesterday on my turbo, no need to drain the oil. I undid the top oil hose and everything moved out of the way no problem, easy two hour job to change out and back together. I did not even have any problems with the self tapping screws, turned backwards til the thread engaged the forward could put them in by hand until snug, was very satisfied with how the chain case looked no metal shavings, chain was not stretched. It was relieving to look in there
 

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just changing my track on my 2007 f1000 and want to replace the drive shaft bearings. Can someone tell me how to remove the shaft from the brake side assembly. Does it just slid out or is there a clip there
 

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I cant get the sled to pull togather to get the brake rotor snap ring on. I tried the rachet strap but didn't seem to do anything
 

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On so I am doing this on my hcr and the problem I am ringing it to is the paddles on the track are to long and candy pushed track up enough to get shafts out any ideas?
 

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Yes nice write-up indeed!:#1:

Did my 2012 last night with buddy. Wasn't as bad as doing my 03 king cat 151. Or maybe I was just me :rolleyes:...

Definately pick up the eaton ring pliars if plan on doing more than one time. Those rings are a bitch.
 

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I just replaced the stock track on my '16 ZR 6000 with a Talon 38 and this thread definitely helped. Mine had regular circlips so I didn't have to worry about those Eaton, thank goodness.

The toughest part about the whole swap was getting the front skid slots up and over the front bar. I compressed the shocks but the rear of the sled needs lifted up in just the right position to get the slots and rail caps over the drivers.

The next hardest part was lining up the rear skid bolt to the top hole. I ended up putting a couple pieces of wood between the track and top of tunnel with a jack under the track. I lifted it up so the rear shock compressed just right and the bolt holes lined up.

Whew, it was a job and a half. I longed for the days of swapping out a Firecat track in about 90 minutes.
 

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Thankyou Johnmaster,
I just finished up my track swap and your write up was a great help.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Another thanks to Johnmaster!

Just swapped the wife's 1 inch hacksaw II for a 1.352 Cobra on her ZR 5000...Four stroke chaincase with reverse added a few things, but really was not too much trouble.
Took the whole thing apart in two hours, and back together in just over two including an oil change.

Anyone interested in a Hacksaw II with 90 1.075 gold diggers in it?
 
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