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Got it, the two stroke oil line is long and has plenty of slack which made this possible. Sounds like it's just a good excuse to change the 4 stroke oil if you have to change one of those then. Thanks for your input.

Kerry, I lost count at about midnight, the sled is still sitting much like it was in the last picture. Friday was a complete waste for me...the shop was a disaster. Good times breaking in the new sled. I would say it's a 7 beer job without the pliers, with the pliers maybe a 5.

I got that 44900 Lisle pliers in and it looks like it would work great.
No problem. Thanks for making this how to.:thumbsup:
 

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Johnmaster,

Talked to the Snow Stud guys last night at the Mil Town show and they were very nice and informative, PM me a price to do 188 Big Shot studs all in DBl backers, need a template and protectors too! I want to do the taller of the two studs (3/8 penetration) 141 Cobra 1.5
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Good to hear. No doubt, good people who are very involved in the sport at Snowstuds. I really enjoy working with them.

Just got back from selling at the snow show, will pm details tonight or tom. morning.
 

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XRS 850 129"
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F1100 Turbo....S/P

Is is certain we have to drain engine/reservoir oil for the 4 strokes, to remove the chaincase for a track swap?

Ill be doing a track swap soon as my sled arrives. If noone knows for sure i guess ill be first to find out.

any guess if a standard circlip tool will work with this type of clip? Im guessing the tool will need to be specific to this type of clip without the little holes. does that one from amazon work? seems alot cheaper then others.

thanks
Dan
 

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Thanks John, therein lies the beauty of the internet..........:bc: had a buddy change out his track this weekend and he was not in a good mood from what I hear. Sure he coulda used a tutorial. Prolly should update my sled....thats two sleds ago. XF 800 SP now.
 

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Good job Johnmaster!!!So much for the 1/2 hr track swaps we used to do on the zr's.....If you did it again would a couple hrs do it???
 

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one other tip, i do it for all my sleds when removing a track. if you roll a small piece of crazy carpet between the drivers and the track lugs, the drive shaft will easily slide out from the track. just found it saves some aggrevation.
 

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Is is certain we have to drain engine/reservoir oil for the 4 strokes, to remove the chaincase for a track swap?

Ill be doing a track swap soon as my sled arrives. If noone knows for sure i guess ill be first to find out.

any guess if a standard circlip tool will work with this type of clip? Im guessing the tool will need to be specific to this type of clip without the little holes. does that one from amazon work? seems alot cheaper then others.

thanks
Dan
I used a standard circlip tool, took about a minute or so to get them each off. You need to drain the oil to get all the hoses off and moved out of the way to get the chaincase off, I didn't feel like adding a bend to the aluminum tubes.

There is no drain for the engine oil tank on the bottom of the pan so be prepared to clean up oil coming out of the tubes or tank, I did my best to avoid a mess and still ended up with oil on the sled.

I took pictures during the exchange but its similar to this. No need to ratchet the tunnel together, just install the three bolts on the brake without tightening them and install the circlip on the chaincase then tighten the brake caliper bolts. It does take awhile if you havent done this before. Wear gloves there are lots of sharp edges. Lots of T20 bolts easier to use a drill to get them all off. Don't rush and make sure everything is lined up or the airfilter will be a pita to put on.
 

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I used a standard circlip tool, took about a minute or so to get them each off. You need to drain the oil to get all the hoses off and moved out of the way to get the chaincase off, I didn't feel like adding a bend to the aluminum tubes.

There is no drain for the engine oil tank on the bottom of the pan so be prepared to clean up oil coming out of the tubes or tank, I did my best to avoid a mess and still ended up with oil on the sled.

I took pictures during the exchange but its similar to this. No need to ratchet the tunnel together, just install the three bolts on the brake without tightening them and install the circlip on the chaincase then tighten the brake caliper bolts. It does take awhile if you havent done this before. Wear gloves there are lots of sharp edges. Lots of T20 bolts easier to use a drill to get them all off. Don't rush and make sure everything is lined up or the airfilter will be a pita to put on.
We did not end up emptying 4s oil...was able to move tank over and out or way without losing or draining res.

Dan
 

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We did not end up emptying 4s oil...was able to move tank over and out or way without losing or draining res.

Dan
Shucks, I guess I didn't have to but it was good to get the first change out of the way. I used a long funnel and angled it out of the running boards, the ex. hole was farther away.
 

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We did not end up emptying 4s oil...was able to move tank over and out or way without losing or draining res.

Dan
Shucks, I guess I didn't have to but it was good to get the first change out of the way. I used a long funnel and angled it out of the running boards, the ex. hole was farther away.
 

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Tool part number

At race school last month Cat gave us a part number for the tool to remove the clip on the drive shaft. The Cat part number they gave us was 0644-581. They listed it as a Blackhawk lock ring-PT-1266.

I did order one and this is what is looks like.

 
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