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you the man johnmaster.be sure to post studding pics of the 1.5 for us xf guys so when we're ready we can call you for studs and know what we gotta do.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks, should be studding it any day now, will put up an equally informative guide.

Krom Just hooked me up with some info, I will edit the original post. Looks like a flad blade version of an external pliers. I will list all of them that I can find including the knipex. If anyone can give part numbers available from national chain auto parts stores I'll add those too.
 

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Snap -on tools or any tool truck should have the pliers.It's in the transmission section of the catalog if I remeber correctly.
 

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2021 VR1 Eight-Fiddy HYPERSLED!!
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John -

This is one of the best technical write-ups in a while. Nice job man! :bc:
 

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is that a two post lift its on? never thought of doing that hmmm
 

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One thing to add to this for F series owners is you can reinstall the front shaft for the skid without the spacers to suck in the tunnel. This will aid in reinstalling the driveshaft.

For 1100 models, this is bassically the same process for removing the track. I will try and add to this to help out you guys.

There are a few extra steps involved, you will need to drain the engine oil from both the engine and sump. The sump has a drain plug but one tip is to take a quart/liter oil can and cut one side off and slide it under the sump so the neck is pointed into the exhaust outlet in the bellypan, this will avoid any mess when draining the oil. From there you can take off the chaincase cover and drain the oil and remove the oil lines the assembly will now be free to move forward.:thumbsup:

**Please do not try and take an easy way out and removing the oil sump without draining the oil. The oil sump is not a sealed unit you will have a very big mess if you try it this way. No I did not learn this the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Any reason why the engine oil has to come out? On my 2 stroke the whole chaincase cover and oil reservoir can come out as one piece and get set aside without even unhooking the supply hose. I haven't studied the 4 strokes but can't the same basic procedure be done? The footwell has to come out and the one screw above the footwell removed to allow the plastic to tip outward. Let me know if I am missing something.
 

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Any reason why the engine oil has to come out? On my 2 stroke the whole chaincase cover and oil reservoir can come out as one piece and get set aside without even unhooking the supply hose. I haven't studied the 4 strokes but can't the same basic procedure be done? The footwell has to come out and the one screw above the footwell removed to allow the plastic to tip outward. Let me know if I am missing something.
The oil lines are short that come off of the sump so they need to be disconnected to remove the cover.
 

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great write up John.....so.....how many beers start to finish??? i gage everything in beers per job...its Canada its what we do!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The oil lines are short that come off of the sump so they need to be disconnected to remove the cover.
Got it, the two stroke oil line is long and has plenty of slack which made this possible. Sounds like it's just a good excuse to change the 4 stroke oil if you have to change one of those then. Thanks for your input.

Kerry, I lost count at about midnight, the sled is still sitting much like it was in the last picture. Friday was a complete waste for me...the shop was a disaster. Good times breaking in the new sled. I would say it's a 7 beer job without the pliers, with the pliers maybe a 5.

I got that 44900 Lisle pliers in and it looks like it would work great.
 

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Kerry, I lost count at about midnight, the sled is still sitting much like it was in the last picture. Friday was a complete waste for me...the shop was a disaster. Good times breaking in the new sled. I would say it's a 7 beer job without the pliers, with the pliers maybe a 5.


:bc:right on!
 
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