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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm retiring the Power Claw from my 12 XF 800 Sno Pro High Country until the snow piles up, in the meantime I am installing this Cobra 1.5 and then installing our Big Shot studs to get more of this power to the ground.

If I could do it over again I would buy an Eaton external snap ring pliers. I am trying to find a web listing for one and will post a link if I can. Perhaps Arctic Cat will have a part number for this specialty pliers. It can be done without one but the time it added, (fighting the clips with screwdrivers) made it really, really frustrating. **edit, thanks go to Krom and catchmeifucan for sending me some links of easy to find sources for this pliers, the Eaton rings are more commonly called lock rings and I can attest to that because without a tool they are pretty much locked on there. Try these sources: Sears Top-Line Princess auto parts McMaster-carr 5773A14 Possibly the best I found was Amazon only because Lisle tools are available at a wide variety of auto part stores, 44900 is the Lisle tools part number. If anyone can confirm they worked good I will update. The key was to figure out they were called "lock ring pliers", a quick google search turned up a bunch of brands to choose from.**

Doing this swap makes me miss the simplicity of diamond drive 45 minute track swaps... Here goes.


  1. Put the sled up on a sled lift.
  2. Take the screw out of the back of the seat and remove seat.
  3. Take the side panels off.
  4. Take the 4 T20 screws out that hold the hood assembly on and unplug the connector that goes to the gauge.
  5. Undo the two 1/4 turn fasteners and take off the cowl from over the gas tank and sides of the sled.
  6. Take the belt off: There is a large washer in your tool kit, take the bolt out of the secondary clutch, put the secondary bolt through just the large washer and tighten it. This will spread the sheaves and you can take your belt off easily.
  7. Take the bolt back out and slip the clutch off of it's spline. Take note of any clutch shims that may be stuck to the back of your clutch and make sure they get put back on later.
  8. Remove the left and right foot well brackets, they are held on by 4 screws each, T25 up top and T20 below.

  9. Drill out the two rivets under the foot well that hold on the brake guard, remove the T20 screw and the two 8mm headed bolts that hold it to the caliper and take off the brake guard. If the rivets spin while drilling hold the other side with a locking pliers. Use a 3/16" or slightly larger drill.



  10. Take off the Eaton Clip that holds the brake rotor to the drive shaft. If you don't have an Eaton clip pliers, you can fight it with picks and screwdrivers. It is a tough bugger.
  11. Remove the 2 springs that hold on the muffler to the pipe, the two springs that hold the muffler down to the frame, and the one spring under the pipe. Lift up the pipe and lift up on the muffler to free it.






    I took off the whole pipe by removing the 4 springs at the y-pipe and the pipe temp sensor. This may be worth the small amount of extra time it takes, make sure to put something in the y pipe to keep debris from entering the motor;).

  12. Loosen the rear axle bolts (13mm).
  13. Loosen the axle adjuster screws until the axle slides all the way up the slots. This will keep you from having to fight to get the skid out. (13mm)

  14. If you have a rear Float air shock, note the pressure and bleed the shock air out. This will allow the rear arm to be limp and keep you from having to fight to get the skid bolts in and out. Mine came delivered at 130 psi.
  15. Take out the front skid frame mounting bolts, a 13mm bolt and 15mm nut, right next to where your boot would be.
  16. Support the weight of the skid and remove the rear skid frame bolts (13mm). Note which hole they are mounted in (mine came in the upper hole). Be careful not to wreck the aluminum threads, if the shaft spins you can hold it with a pliers.
  17. With the skid free from the sled, you can usually shove it forward and shimmy it out by the back end first. Take your time, it can be frustrating if you don't do it all the time.

  18. Take out the T20 screw that fastens the right side panel to the frame tube. This will give you room to take the oil tank/outer chain case cover off.
  19. Snip the zip tie and disconnect the connectors that go to the low oil sensor and speed sensor.
  20. If you are planning on re-using the oil (if you are doing a brand new swap or in a pinch and don't have new oil), you should clean the area below the chain case so that it doesn't get dirt in the oil.
  21. Put a catch pan under the sled.



    Take out all the T30 screws that hold the center chain case cover to the actual chain case.



    There is a hole in the plastic guard to get at the bottom two from under the sled. Leave the engine oil tank connected to the chain case cover, it doesn't have a back and if you take it off it will all spill it out.



  22. Swing the cover/oil tank assembly to the side and leave it connected. I was able prop it up in the area where the muffler usually sits.
  23. Depress the spring loaded lever on the chain adjuster and loosen the chain by swinging the arm up.

  24. Apply the parking brake.
  25. Take the 10mm bolt out of the top gear, slide the gear off and remove the chain from the bottom gear, put in a clean place like a clean rag.
  26. Remove the three 10mm head bolts from behind the caliper inside the tunnel.

  27. Slide the brake caliper and rotor off the shaft, tip it forward to get it out and set it aside.



  28. Remove the lower gear by taking the Eaton clip off of the drive shaft and slide the gear off. These aren't the right tools, we had to fight with screwdrivers to get it off!

  29. Shove the track up into the inside of the tunnel so you can slide the shaft to the left of the sled and then down and out. Remove it from the sled.
















    Next, putting it back together:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Reassembly:
Apply thread locker where you feel you need it when reassembling. I won't be mentioning where to put threadlocker, thats your call. It's a good time to check your slides, grease the skid, verify shock function.

  1. Note the arrows showing track direction under normal driving. Shove the track up into the inside of the tunnel so you can slide the shaft first into the left of the sled and then over into the chain case.
  2. Install the lower gear and put the Eaton clip on the drive shaft, make sure it is seated.
  3. Slide the brake caliper and rotor back onto the shaft.
  4. Install the three 10mm head bolts through the cover behind the caliper inside the tunnel.
  5. Install the skid frame back into the sled, tighten the rear bolts first so it can hang and then you can line up the front ones. This will get the tunnel to suck back together. I used a ratchet strap for this job (before putting in the skid frame), the brake side clip will not fully seat if you can't get the tunnel narrow enough to expose it.

  6. Release the parking brake.
  7. Install the Eaton clip onto the brake rotor side of the shaft.
  8. With the spring tensioner held out of the way, install the chain onto the lower gear, put the top gear in the chain and slide the top gear and chain onto the upper spline. It will go, be patient and rotate the jack shaft slightly if it wont go.
  9. Tighten the top gear bolt and washer.
  10. Put the tensioner back down into the top of the adjuster teeth. You don't need to get crazy with the tension, it is self tensioning.
  11. Reinstall the cover/oil tank assembly.
  12. Fill chain case back up using the sight glass.
  13. Reconnect the oil level sensor and speed sensor connectors and re-zip tie it to the ear on the back of the chain case.
  14. Install the T20 screw that fastens the side panel to the frame tube.
  15. Install the muffler, noting that it sits properly on the frame and that the rubber gasket around the muffler outlet is properly seated. Put on the two springs that hold the muffler down to the frame, the 2 springs that hold on the muffler to the pipe, and the one spring under the pipe. If you took off the whole pipe re-install the 4 springs at the y-pipe and the pipe temp sensor.

  16. Reinstall the rotor cover with its screws and two 3/16" rivets and reinstall the left and right foot well plates.
  17. (This is a great time to clean your clutches and belt with warm soapy water, even from new.) Put the secondary back on, depress the sheaves with the bolt and washer and reinstall the belt noting the directional arrows. Reinstall the clutch bolt and put the large washer back in your tool kit.
  18. Put the cowl back on the gas tank and attach.
  19. Put the seat on and bolt it back on.
  20. Put the hood on making sure to seat the air intake at the front of the sled. Also don't forget to attach the wiring connector. Tighten the four screws.
  21. Refill the air shock and put the valve cap back on.
  22. Tension and align the track according to your owners manual.
  23. Tighten the back axle bolts.
  24. Check everything over, put the side panels back on and after the first ride, re-check the track tension. Make sure you have the tools with you to tighten the track on your first ride, you may find it gets relaxed and need a few more turns after it is broken in.
Anyone who does this and wants me to edit, add or remove steps please let me know and I will clean it up accordingly.
 

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after reading all that it makes me nervous for my dealer to do it. I feel like my retro will come home with paint chips everywhere
 

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Wow-

That was an amazing write up, John. This took you a long time to put together.

Your efforts are truely appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!:bc4:

You forgot the step about going to the liquor store and getting the Coors Light....
 

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Excellent write up John! When I was a Mod over on Dsmtuners we called these Vfaq's everyone was able to do them and get them sticked if they were professional and well done. This is great would be nice to start a section over here with similar. When I guy does a mod he does a step by step with pics and gets it posted in the vfaq section.
 

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great write up, wish i would have pulled foot wells, then i would not have had to take the bearing out. it came out relatively easy though... i had aluminum shavings in my oil when i drained it so i just replaced it.
 
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