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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ordered up the bdx 1.25 ' track porting tool.going to port my rmk 600 track. already cut the fingers off (1.5 lug now vs 2 inch ) on the track lugs, want to do some porting.

is two holes up the middle fine , or is there a trick or theory for best hole placement and how many?

reduce a little rolling resistance and maybe keep snow build up down abit.sleds the edge 144 rmk.

any advice?never did this before.

thanks.
1.5 track 1.jpg
1.5 3.jpg
 

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ordered up the bdx 1.25 ' track porting tool.going to port my rmk 600 track. already cut the fingers off (1.5 lug now vs 2 inch ) on the track lugs, want to do some porting.

is two holes up the middle fine , or is there a trick or theory for best hole placement and how many?

reduce a little rolling resistance and maybe keep snow build up down abit.sleds the edge 144 rmk.

any advice?never did this before.

thanks. View attachment 2121588 View attachment 2121589
To be honest, I wonder if anyone has credible feedback to give on this. Case in point, Ski-Doo has flip-flopped on this a few times over the years, claiming when they first did it that it cut weight with no loss in floatation, only to backtrack a couple years later (of course, always making a fuss about how it was an improvement, lol) only to backtrack yet again and bring it back a few years later yet.

My guess would be to start off conservatively and go from there once you get some saddle time in.

Good luck!
 

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one hole staggered pattern. the idea of porting is to prevent ballooning at high track speeds, and to get rid of snow. add shed some weight. you can over do it, so 1 hole per belt to start and try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
one hole staggered pattern. the idea of porting is to prevent ballooning at high track speeds, and to get rid of snow. add shed some weight. you can over do it, so 1 hole per belt to start and try.
ive read a bunch of threads on this since. some guys say behind each lug up the center. some guys say 2 up the center equal spaced.some guys go crazy and go 3 across plus the outside but im not doing that.

what do you think then ?one behind each lug up the middle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To be honest, I wonder if anyone has credible feedback to give on this. Case in point, Ski-Doo has flip-flopped on this a few times over the years, claiming when they first did it that it cut weight with no loss in floatation, only to backtrack a couple years later (of course, always making a fuss about how it was an improvement, lol) only to backtrack yet again and bring it back a few years later yet.

My guess would be to start off conservatively and go from there once you get some saddle time in.

Good luck!
yep , ive read that as well.my 144 rmk track that came off a 12 rmk that i bought to extend my dragon 700 last summer was ported from factory too i think.the holes are square just like the outside windows seems to work well on that one.no issues atleast anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
with all that track gone that sleds gonna be a killer
the idea was for it to bite better in crust rather then flop over like it had a tendency to do on crust with the fingers on it.
 

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ive read a bunch of threads on this since. some guys say behind each lug up the center. some guys say 2 up the center equal spaced.some guys go crazy and go 3 across plus the outside but im not doing that.

what do you think then ?one behind each lug up the middle?
one each bar behind the lug. you can always add holes. pretty hard to plug them on a track. like said the biggest advantage is stop the ballooning that happens with a longer deep lug track. you can run the track looser with less ballooning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
one each bar behind the lug. you can always add holes. pretty hard to plug them on a track. like said the biggest advantage is stop the ballooning that happens with a longer deep lug track. you can run the track looser with less ballooning.
thanks rick.this was what i was looking for. thats what i will do.
 
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