do a compression check first. this should be done on every used sled someone is interested in. start it should take only two pulls to start. then it should idle at 1700 rpm's. plus or minus 200 rpm. (1600-1800) check the rear shock closely. the one under the seat. some have come loose. untreaded the main body from the head or end of the shock.check the front clip/bulk head. near the sway bar mounts. for cracks breaks etc. this is a cast alum. piece. other then that its just a normal sled. look for excessive belt dust in the clutch area,loose suspenion bolts, ripped off track lugs,sloppy a-arm bushings, steering componets, etc. this is a indication of how hard its been used/ridin.

 

Just average stuff... Looking at sleds in the summer always has a downfall.

 

Compression test is already on the list. It's a little higher mileage, so I definitely want to be sure that it still pulls 120+ (my 2002 has over 13,000 miles and still pulls over 120 and has never been opened).

Seller says the track is in very good shape as he just inspected it and replaced a couple of the studs that were bent.

I will definitely looks closely at that shock. Manual says that the shock oil should be replaced every 2000 miles. How "real" is that interval?

These models use a sealed bearing system for the driveshafts. Is that different from previous years? I seem to recall that the ones on my 02 Edge are also sealed... What sort of interval -might- those bearings need to be replaced at? And, are they pressed onto the driveshaft or are they held on with collars (wondering how hard of a job this is to DIY)?

 

Holy cow! You are an informed buyer. Good for you. I just sold my 2012 and the individual barely looked it over. However, I'm honest and truthful and told him everything he needed to know.

How many miles does this sled have?

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Start engine, then put your ear near the fuel tank cap, if you hear a louder then normal fuel pump hum noise the $500.00$$$ fuel pump needs to be replaced... Or the $105$ Fuel pump pick up filter (in side tank) is partially plugged or the $140$ fuel injection hose/filter is partially plugged with ethanol phase separated junk or tank mfg dirt...

Ask if the engine was fogged for summer storage or was started & ran for 5 minutes every month to bring engine temp to a min of 120*F.....
If not the crankshaft bearing could have a small amount of rust that could destroy the engine after a 50 mile trip... Just like what happened to a friends 2012 600 Pro R Rush....

Remove the exhaust power valves, look through the cylinder exhaust valve hole to see if the ASSO-W India made pistons are the softer alum version that could result in excessive ring land slop....$$$ Compression could still be good at be 120 psi even with excessive ring land clearance. Polaris is aware of this, but no recall bulletins on the soft ASSO-W pistons...

 

"louder than normal"... What's normal?

Good point on the summer storage questions. I start mine and run them every four to six weeks as opposed to fogging, but I don't know what his process is.

Removing the VES valves is not something I'm likely to try and do as part of the inspection. Too much risk of either tearing a gasket (or one already being torn and being blamed for it) or ending up with a situation where I don't like what I see and end up not buying the sled, then being accused that "ever since you touched that, it doesn't run right". There are some things I'm willing to do (like loosening to track to grab onto the driveshaft and see if I can feel any play in it). There are some things that I don't know that I would want to.

I might ask him about his VES valve cleaning habits. If it seems that he pulls them and cleans them regularly, I'll ask if he would be open to pulling them off to look and let him actually do it.

If I do get to peek in, how do I tell which pistons are in it? And, if they ARE they "bad" ones, will Polaris offer ANY sort of remedy? This machine is absolutely no longer under the factory standard warranty - I don't yet know if there's an extended warranty on it.

 

"louder than normal"... What's normal?

Good point on the summer storage questions. I start mine and run them every four to six weeks as opposed to fogging, but I don't know what his process is.

Removing the VES valves is not something I'm likely to try and do as part of the inspection. Too much risk of either tearing a gasket (or one already being torn and being blamed for it) or ending up with a situation where I don't like what I see and end up not buying the sled, then being accused that "ever since you touched that, it doesn't run right". There are some things I'm willing to do (like loosening to track to grab onto the driveshaft and see if I can feel any play in it). There are some things that I don't know that I would want to.

I might ask him about his VES valve cleaning habits. If it seems that he pulls them and cleans them regularly, I'll ask if he would be open to pulling them off to look and let him actually do it.

If I do get to peek in, how do I tell which pistons are in it? And, if they ARE they "bad" ones, will Polaris offer ANY sort of remedy? This machine is absolutely no longer under the factory standard warranty - I don't yet know if there's an extended warranty on it.

You don't need any advice you are doing what you should and have a handle on what to look for. I don't know anyone who would let you take out the power valves kinda over the top IMO. Compression and everything you've listed sounds good. Trust your gut.

 

so is this happening with the 600-2 engines for 2013?

 

The 2013 & 2014 Pro R Rush 600 CFI 2 have a new piston p/n 2204900, most likely an improved piston....

The 2010, 2011 & 2012 600 CFI 2+2 have an older piston p/n 2204152, most likely the ASSO-W piston, appears some are too soft resulting in excessive ring to piston land clearance...
My 2012 600 SB with 2980 miles had 120 psi & pistons looked perfect...
But I turned the oil injection 8 turns richer & added 1 oz oil per gal of gas.

The above noted piston failures can happen on any two stroke engine that has plugged fuel filters that can damage fuel pump, then easily burn down time....

If one runs 10% ethanol gas that absorbs water, phase separation into a clear/gray gel **** that plugs up the filter/hose assy & fuel pump pick up screen... Then the fuel pump can not pump enough gas, lean out CFI condition can easily melt pistons, lock up destroy crankshaft..........

My excellent 2012 600 Pro R SB had plugged up fuel filter/hose assy & fuel pump pick up screen at 2200 miles.... Engine started to lock up, with 91 octane non ethanol fuel, put in ethanol mode limped sled back home...

Last winter 3 friends 600 Polaris sleds had plugged up factory cheap/small fuel filter/hose assy, then burnt down the engine... Plus a 2012 800 Pro R was cutting out with plugged fuel filter, but did not burn down..

Usually I only use 91 octane non ethanol fuel, add 1 gal of 10% ethanol fuel to get the 12.8 oz of alcohol to prevent freeze ups... Only used 10% ethanol gas 2 times on the trail... So what caused the phase separation? Most likely with me putting in 1 gallon of 10% ethanol fuel before each ride???

The point I am trying to get across use 91 octane non ethanol fuel & change fuel filter/hose assy every 1000, miles!!!

If there is a low humming fuel pump noise with fuel tank cap remove, remove fuel pump & clean or replace the $100 fuel pump pick up screen/filter!!! Also replace the $140 fuel filter/hose assy!!!
If not do not complain when engine burns down & Polaris rejects warranty due to a plugged up fuel filter..........

Suggest HCS folks contact HCS northstarrick for a high quality after market fuel filter/hose assy for approx. $50...
Good Luck to all, as we need it with the poor quality fuel..

 

run klotz octane boost. this stuff works. have all kinds of harley riders using it with great results. have been testing it on sleds. even crap fuel has been holding octane rating for months. everyone should have a can with them in case you have to use lower octane fuel. or are unsure of the fuel your getting at some podunk backwoods fuel stop.

 

Rick , I always have that with me ,buddy's think I'm a fool!!

 

Got the chance to go check it out...

4700 miles, no scrapes, scratches, or dings anywhere on it so speak of. The mid-height windshield has a small crack on the left side (apparently has been there almost the entire time he owned it). Track is in very good shape, any bent studs were recently replaced (Woody's Gold Diggers, 96 studs).

With the sled running, I heard pretty much nothing with my ear near the gas cap. Removing the cap created a slight "hissing" noise that I presume is pretty normal.

The motor pulled about 125-126 on both cylinders. Drive belt is decent, but not brand new. I will get a new one and swap it over, using this one as a spare.

Plugs are brand new and the first replacement set installed. Skis are original, and have only a few hundred miles on them. Carbides are in good shape.

Electric start cranks it right over, even when cold. Powder coat is mostly in tact on the engine parts that are powder coated. Chaincase oil was recently changed (when plugs were replaced).

Two of the idler wheels exhibited some play, so the bearings may have some wear.

Oil filter and fuel filter have never been replaced. He runs Polaris Gold oil and premium fuel (E10 - resistor is installed). Summer storage procedure was to use the Polaris fogging oil that you add to the tank, run it, drain the tank.

Sled came with a windshield bag, underseat storage bag, saddled bags (after market, 3-piece), 2010 Rush Service Manual (electronic copy), all manuals, tools, and extra set of brand new plugs. And I got it for what I felt was a great price. Check out more about it in this thread....

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/432-rush-switchback-pro-ride-chassis/851065-what-rush-lol.html#post9118889

 

Congrats!!