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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks. Well, I know this has been disscussed, but I need to know what the actual solution is.

I have an 05 m5. The read skid only utilizes a few short inches of travel, then it locks. If you kneel on the read bumper, instead of bottoming out, as it should, it compresses a couple inches, then the front skis lift off the ground.

I know some people loosen the track to gain some extra use of hte skid, but I would prefer not to go that route, as I know some people have wrecked parts running thier tracks to loose.

I have read of this drop bracket that helps overall ride, does it also allow the suspension to compress to its full advertised travel? If so, can someone link me up to this kit. If not, what needs to be done, kind of frustrating, and I dont want to go to the dealer and listen to them bitch.

thanks for the info

-Boe
 

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I didn't realize there was a problem like that, but Im not an M series owner.

How does Arctic Cat not notice something like then when they build the prototype, or the first few test sleds and they are testing every aspect of them?? You would think they would have engineered a better suspension :dunno:
 

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There's no issue, you need to loosen your track. They won't ratchet because of the drivers so you can run it w/ 2"-3" of sag. You also need to put some miles on it so the springs will "take a set". Mine rides great.
 

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Go to Holz racing website, look at AC parts. M chassis front arm relocation bracket. Changes the arc the front arm works through just enough to keep it from making the track too tight, allowing you to get full susp. travel with a decent track tension. Too loose and it WILL ratchet in heavy spring snow (been there, done that).

There are a coupla other fixes that change the upper idler wheel location, but they look like band-aids to me, and weigh and cost more.

John
 

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If you have a 141"er you sould be fine with out the mod. Just run the track 2-3"s loose and your good. The longer track monster's are a different story. I have gotten all the travel in my 141 with out the any changes other than loosening the track. The springs DO need to take a set. They are realy tight stock.

Now if you get the holz kit you will need to re-valve your shocks as the rear will just collaps to the ground and not come back up. Kinda like when your nose of the sled is on a trailer and how the rear will sit all the way down on the ground with out weight.

Be very carfull with skid mods on this sled. You can stab a window with the rail realy easy when hitting a steep hill. Can you say come to a stop quick!
 

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Originally posted by furthur@Sep 20 2005, 07:24 PM
Go to Holz racing website, look at AC parts.  M chassis front arm relocation bracket.  Changes the arc the front arm works through just enough to keep it from making the track too tight, allowing you to get full susp. travel with a decent track tension.  Too loose and it WILL ratchet in heavy spring snow (been there, done that).

There are a coupla other fixes that change the upper idler wheel location, but they look like band-aids to me, and weigh and cost more.

John
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Yep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I will probaly loosen the track and test it out for a few days this winter.
 

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Just put the Holz kit on everyone on Snowest says nothing but good about the kit. If you ride on the trail with a track that loose I would be afraid of windowing a track if you hit something. I was running my 2.0 151 track on my F real loose last year and hit something on the trail and windowed a track trust me its not fun or cheap.
 

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Hey boe, any chance you turned your track around? If you did, make sure your rear skid shock mount bracket didn't flip around. Not sure if you have ridden it since then it is very obvious but I have seen numerous skids this way after switching the track and not doing a test ride. This limits suspension to about an 1".
 

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sledjunkys.com also has a kit.....I have a 153 and even with 3 inches of sag in the track it will still lock up if I bash a large bump while climbing a big hill, other wise it's not too bad, But I have ordered SJ's kit, he says most don't have to revalve and his kit does not change the skid geometry as the Holtz does.
 
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