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The best chaincase oil!

6.3K views 73 replies 24 participants last post by  -dw-  
#1 ·
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#5 ·
Still use a homemade mix akin to this. ATF, 75W140, Lucas oil stabilizer, and Lucas Break-In oil (Zinc). Can't remember last time I changed a gear, chain, or chaincase bearing in any of my sleds other than when I buy used sled and rebuild.
 
#7 ·
CVT transmission fluid has higher shear strength, better resistance to heat, but also has special properties that INCREASE friction between surfaces to increase grip in a pulley and chain CVT transmission. When CVT's started appearing in cars and had to go to schools for them, this fluid fact was pounded into our head. That's why all the instructors stressed that the chain and pulleys in what at that time were new cars, would be "when" they were changed, not "if" they were changed. I definitely don't want something that increases friction in my chaincase.

Regular ATF - High lubricity, friction reducing additives, lubrication under high hydraulic pressure, detergent properties. Hypoid oil - shear strength, high temperature resistance, lubrication under high mechanical pressure. Stabilizer - keeps oil stuck to parts, extreme resistance to temperature, high shear strength. Zinc additive - extreme shear strength.
Seems to cover it all without friction increase. I'll stick with mine
 
#10 ·
Not peddling amsoil but all I’ve been using is there chain case oil and it’s a great product for the application of sleds! Never wore out or have had any problems in my chai cases ! Things look like new or extremely little wear after stupid miles put on . But regular maintenance is key here with proper chain tension!
 
#16 · (Edited)
The best oil is a new one, i.e one that has been changed recently! It isn't lack of lubrication that induces wear on the components it's the dirt and debris that forms during use that "grinds" on the internal components in the chaincase.

You can put almost anything in the chain case and it will be fine. ANY engine or transmission oil you have on the shelf at home will do just fine, in a pinch even two stroke oil will do! Personally I definitely prefer engine/transmission oils to hydraulic fluids/ATF but that's just me.

JUST change the oil once in a while! Something cheap that gets changed once or twice a year is much much better than something expensive that is left unchanged for years.
 
#20 ·
I have no idea what the prices are over at your side of the pond but a bottle of branded chain case oil over here can be 20-40USD and i buy the engine oil for all our cars in 20L containers for 5-10 USD/Liter so there is a significant difference. (and a liter of oil is enough for 2-3 changes)
 
#26 ·
HYVO chains take special oil or they stiffen up,
ATF special enough? HYVO isnt new. Came out in the 60s and used in many automatic transmissions such as GM th 425, 4t80, th 125 and th 440t4 to name a few. Lets include 4x4 transfer case too. The only only time I seen hyvo chain go stiff in a tcase or snowmobile chain case is when it was run out of fluid. The hydraulic system in an at trans wouldnt allow it to go long enough to smoke the chain.


Same here. Snowmobile chain case drive systems spin at higher rpm than automotive gear boxes.
So when the auto manufactors called for a high velocity chain for transmission and tcase cases chain speed is somehow inherently snail speed? I dont think so. Food for thought. Typical snowmobile chaincase it Under driven close to 2 to 1. A gm th 425 is 1 to 1 with 65 tooth sprockets. A gm th 440t4 is Overdriven with 37 and 33 tooth sprockets. Automatic transmission chain input rpm is a constant engine rpm, snowmobile chaincase has input ratio from Under driven 3 - 1 to 1 - 1 and with some od. Can figure chain velocity with a bit of math such as rate x diameter x pie or something like that. The diameter of a 22 tooth snowmobile upper sprocket vs say an at transmission input 37 or 65 tooth sprocket my calculations say the at trans chain velocity is haulin azz. 4x4 tcases have large diameter sprockets and will see .60-.70 od yet too.


How often are you changing it that it's worth saving $2 to not use regular chaincase oil?
The qt of cvt fluid in the pic cost me nothing (extra from a transmission job) that save me 20$ over a qt of SCL from the dealer which is just gear lube anyway. Open qt of any oil on my shelf goes in my chain cases when I do service. Its not rocket science.
 
#28 · (Edited)
ATF special enough? HYVO isnt new. Came out in the 60s and used in many automatic transmissions such as GM th 425, 4t80, th 125 and th 440t4 to name a few. Lets include 4x4 transfer case too. The only only time I seen hyvo chain go stiff in a tcase or snowmobile chain case is when it was run out of fluid. The hydraulic system in an at trans wouldnt allow it to go long enough to smoke the chain.




So when the auto manufactors called for a high velocity chain for transmission and tcase cases chain speed is somehow inherently snail speed? I dont think so. Food for thought. Typical snowmobile chaincase it Under driven close to 2 to 1. A gm th 425 is 1 to 1 with 65 tooth sprockets. A gm th 440t4 is Overdriven with 37 and 33 tooth sprockets. Automatic transmission chain input rpm is a constant engine rpm, snowmobile chaincase has input ratio from Under driven 3 - 1 to 1 - 1 and with some od. Can figure chain velocity with a bit of math such as rate x diameter x pie or something like that. The diameter of a 22 tooth snowmobile upper sprocket vs say an at transmission input 37 or 65 tooth sprocket my calculations say the at trans chain velocity is haulin azz. 4x4 tcases have large diameter sprockets and will see .60-.70 od yet too.




The qt of cvt fluid in the pic cost me nothing (extra from a transmission job) that save me 20$ over a qt of SCL from the dealer which is just gear lube anyway. Open qt of any oil on my shelf goes in my chain cases when I do service. Its not rocket science.
I ran 3 different repair shops for 51 years saw many Hyvo chain get stiff, you could hold them straight out and they just stood out like a stick, these were chains the customers used oils different than what was recommended and yes the oil was still in the chaincase when I opened the chain case(s) up for service.
Like motor oils, I say use whatever you want to and hope it was the right choice. (y)
 
#30 ·
I’ve been using the AmsOil chain case fluid and change it about every 2000-2500 miles, usually that comes out to three changes a season. Let’s me get in there and check the chain tension as well. Probably should be replacing the puck one of these times.
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This one has about 12k on it.
 
#32 ·
got some buddies that wrenches on heavy equipment , they swear by Omega 690 as the best, bar none. (Well, it better be good, at that price, lol!)
One of them was able to make his Doo 800 last close to 30K miles b/ of his "extended care" :ROFLMAO:
 
#52 ·
It 20 years this year since I joined HCS. Thought it was a bit boring here and after a few drinks one night i thought I needed to troll a little. Really CVT oil in a snowmobile? Its kinda funny... lol
 
#54 · (Edited)
The vespel guide seems to be holding up good from what I can see and hear about.. agiain, there are a few factors in the process. Low oil, too tight a chain and even a loose chain all contribute to the life of it. Some have reported 10,000 miles on a vespel puck… I’d say that’s pretty good. But I bet they keep things adjusted right and keep oil changed annually. Chain tension is key with either type of tensioner! Not to turn the choice of oil used into a debate but all I’ve ever used is amsoil chaincase lube.. it’s insane the miles I could add up between my and all the guys I ride with that used it and not ONE chain or bearing failure… thats just a testimony to share.