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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Don,

Just wanted to send you a big "THANK YOU!" for the clutching advice. My sled absolutely rips! I have the Ski-doo Dark Blue 200/315 RER spring with the D&D shift assist. I also have the primary machined per your advice. The rpm's are consistant and the acceleration is awesome! Now, I have a bit of an over rev but, I have some weights to solve that little issue....I can't get over how strong the mid range and top end are, now(even with the over rev). I was riding with a buddy of mine with a new XP 800 Renegade and he was wondering why my little 700 was pulling so strong...I'll never tell......

Have a Happy New Year!

Todd
 

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Don,

Just wanted to send you a big "THANK YOU!" for the clutching advice. My sled absolutely rips! I have the Ski-doo Dark Blue 200/315 RER spring with the D&D shift assist. I also have the primary machined per your advice. The rpm's are consistant and the acceleration is awesome! Now, I have a bit of an over rev but, I have some weights to solve that little issue....I can't get over how strong the mid range and top end are, now(even with the over rev). I was riding with a buddy of mine with a new XP 800 Renegade and he was wondering why my little 700 was pulling so strong...I'll never tell......

Have a Happy New Year!

Todd[/b]
Todd what are you seeing on the topend....MPH?
Sounds promising :beer_cheers:
 

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what all is done for this clutch job?
 

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what all is done for this clutch job?[/b]
Just about stock.

44/40 helix goodwin Dark blue secondary spring D&D shift assist.
Two more grams in the primary 77's or 78's with a 185/290 to a 190/320 primary spring.

Making more room in the primarys spider cup for the spring to grow and not stop the shift letting you pull alot more over drive. Setting up the off set and deflection like this and your good to go.


Ok. Take the white ajuster out of the end of the helix. Push on the end of the helix but not the adjuster letting the belt drop into the secondary. Then turn the white ajuster out left hand thread. YOu had to have taken this out to take the secondary off. IF you look on the adjuster there is some rings on it held on with an O ring. Adding a ring to this stack will tighten the belt.

With the rear of the sled in the air you want to add shims to the adjuster till the track wants to just creep ahead at idle. This is the perfect deflection setting. Don't worry about how much bend there is in the belt. Set it to the track creep.

Ok now the off set. The rings under the secondary are the shims that set the off set. Take them all out you may need to take them out with a magnet. Put the secondary on with out bolting it and with all the shims out from behind it. Put the belt on and put your deflection adjuster back in. With the rear in the air still and the belt guard off hit the flipper and spin the track up to speed. The secondary will pop into the motor then let off the flipper and let the track free wheel till it trys to creep at idle. Grab the brake and measure from the outter sheave of the secondary to a fix point on the DDrive. Do the test again and see if you come up with the same measurement. This measurement is where you want to shim to and bolt the secondary back on. The washer on the bolt may be cupped so just flip it and bolt it back on.

You may find that you take out about .060 from where the dealer is setting them. That is because the off set bar is wrong from 2005. Now if your deflection changes then the off set will need to be re-set because the secondary on these sled cann't float any more. The old secondary that would float would set its self up as the belt worn in. IF the belt gets worn you may want to re test and check off set again.

The other thing is to check for primary spring bind in the spider cup. The springs even the stock spring tend to catch in the spider cup and we have been milling them wider to the brace in them. This gives room for the spring to grow and not hang up. You can close up the belt to sheave spacing too most are way to big. I like to see .025" between a new belt and the movable sheave in the primary. I bet you have .060 to .125"s in there. Changing this would mean you would have to pull the spider and get at the shims under it. IF you just want to ride making room for the spring to grow will make so much of a difference.



I really mean it when I say be careful. The sled will be an animal. No need for power adders unless you have a death wish.
 

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Dono - Are you stilling running the white spacer in the secondary? I did some testing this weekend and found that with the S/A installed, the secondary spring can float on the bearing and create a misalignment for this white spacer (the spacer in floating on the secondary shaft). This misalignment then limits the clutches ability to fully shift. This is due to the fact that the S/A is sized for alignment with this spacer as oppose to the main shaft in the secondary clutch. Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks
 

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Is milling the spider cup out the only machining you are doing the the primary?
Are you milling it out in the spider and the clutch cover plate?
Also I have tried taking spiders off befor with out much success, What are the tricks you have use? I always seem to pull the threads out of them even when I heat them up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, to answer the question of machining the cover and spider spring cups. Arctic Cat does not recommend taking off the spider for any reason. It's a liablility issue. BUT, if you want to still take off the spider, you need to really heat it up to soften the loctite. Then you need a "spider" wrench. I had my spider machined while it was still assembled.
 

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did you us a lathe to open up the spider cup, or set it up in a mill?
did you open up the cover plate too?
my cover plate seems to be tighter on my spring than the spyder?
 

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if you set the belt deflection then the clutch offset and take washers out wouldn't that change the angle of the belt?just asking questions cause i don't know,to me it seems that you'd set the clutch offset first then the belt deflection?I am in the process of doing this as per donoBBD's instructions!
 

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i put both the spider cup and cover on a lathe per Donno's instructions.
if you look on the under side of the cover there was spring gall mark on the o.d. od the cover slot indicating on mine that there was some binding going on in there then i inspected the cup and seen the same thing so i milled them both out. done
I still dont understand this "offset" adjustment yet ???
The 3 washers behind my secondary are "flush" with the cover of the diamond drive...
 

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Where's the link to Dono's instructions? I'm getting very close to getting my spider off. My brother is the machinist in the family and is almost done making the spider removal tool. Definately wasn't gonna buy one for the price they're asking.

Also, i've read about installing a bearcat shim in the clutch. Something to do with belt to sheave clearance? I can't wait to get my clutching dialed in.
 

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how much engagment did you lose when you opened up the spider cup and the cover?[/b]
Engagement will not change. And no need to remove the spider to do the machining. Even a small lathe can grab the entire clutch. Or at least the harmonics ring.
 

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I live in Grand Rapids, MI area and checked on getting my spring cups turned down but the cost was high because the person doing it said the spider should be taken apart. Cost was something like $80.00 for all the work. Does anybody know of a resource I could get this done at in my area for a cheaper price...preferrably someone who has done this before.
Thanks
 

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80 bucks sounds about right if you live in Grand Rapids. With the amount of time it took start to finish on both of my pieces. Those machines they use are not cheap. i took mine off myself. i dont know if i would want someone else working on my sled though.
 

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I did mine at work and it took me aver a hour to do the spider and the cover. the thing to remember is these parts need to be running true (round) that takes time to indicate in. 80 bucks sound like a fair price to me. In my case my belt to sheave clearance was so far off. I had to take my spider off anyways. So i would check that first and see what it is if you have to take it off to fix that then you might as well machine the spider when it is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My spider and cover were machined in a CNC milling machine. I had a co-worker in our machine shop do the work. The spider was still assembled.
 
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