Hardcore Sledder banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
I’ve emailed Fast a couple times and get a response pretty fast—within a day or 2.
I’ve posted a side by side comparison of the RMotion and the Airwave M20 here maybe 5 years ago. IDK.

The M10 is about the same as the RMotion. The M20 is better than both. The Airwave is actually a boring skid. Sounds weird but here’s why: It soaked bumps so easily, you can’t even feel the skid moving and stays flat. It just does it’s thing. No crazy weight transfer, and maybe a little lose of mph but not noticeable unless running radar runs. Never broke a torque arm and I’ve beaten the crap out of all of them, mostly ditch riding, but plenty of trail miles too I have bent/bowed the lower shock shafts before. That’s really common but doesn’t actually hurt anything.

If you are a hard rider, revalve the front shock harder. Makes a big difference. It won’t blow through the bumps and bottom the skid so easily. I figured out how to get the big spring off and since I do my own shocks, I messed with the valving and got it stiffened up.

I might even have a mountain, light front shock spring that will work for you. Gotta be around here somewhere. I’ll look.

My current Pro Rmk doesn’t have much weight transfer either but it really rough on the trails, but someone would have to make 5.5” rail extensions if I put the M20 in my Rmk 155”. For many years, the M10 was standard fare in many modded mountain sleds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,016 Posts
I’ve emailed Fast a couple times and get a response pretty fast—within a day or 2.
I’ve posted a side by side comparison of the RMotion and the Airwave M20 here maybe 5 years ago. IDK.

The M10 is about the same as the RMotion. The M20 is better than both. The Airwave is actually a boring skid. Sounds weird but here’s why: It soaked bumps so easily, you can’t even feel the skid moving and stays flat. It just does it’s thing. No crazy weight transfer, and maybe a little lose of mph but not noticeable unless running radar runs. Never broke a torque arm and I’ve beaten the crap out of all of them, mostly ditch riding, but plenty of trail miles too I have bent/bowed the lower shock shafts before. That’s really common but doesn’t actually hurt anything.

If you are a hard rider, revalve the front shock harder. Makes a big difference. It won’t blow through the bumps and bottom the skid so easily. I figured out how to get the big spring off and since I do my own shocks, I messed with the valving and got it stiffened up.

I might even have a mountain, light front shock spring that will work for you. Gotta be around here somewhere. I’ll look.

My current Pro Rmk doesn’t have much weight transfer either but it really rough on the trails, but someone would have to make 5.5” rail extensions if I put the M20 in my Rmk 155”. For many years, the M10 was standard fare in many modded mountain sleds.
D do you have any seat time on Gerards new King Air skid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
664 Posts
I have a 2007 D7 in my fleet with a true Fast M10. The first thing that I would do is call fast and get brand new front limiter strap(s). Once they stretch you will have a hard time getting the settings right. A new limiter from fast is only about 35usd. If it's a true M10 and you have 3 holes for the front torque arm in the rail, run in the middle hole with new limiter(s). (some had 1 some had 2 limiter straps) Keep the limiter just tight with no load on the sled. You can run the limiter 1/2-1 hole out but making the m10 transfer well will upset the ride quality out of the corner. If the back rail end sits more then 1/2" (max) off the ground the track may be to tight. The Fast M10 needs the track as loose as you can run it without ratcheting. Make sure sag is set correctly with the rear inner spring. Run the FRA as loose as you can without to much bottoming out per rider weight. I have the fast setup manual if you have any specific questions. It's not available on the interweb anywhere that I know of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
I've had the Polaris version in a 2002 Edge xcsp 700 and I rode it hard and it didn't feel any slower than 2002 700 xcsp with the regular suspension. The only thing i found was getting the skid out the Allen bolts hoding the suspension to the tunnel were a real bugger to get out, they get rounded easy. They really applied the lock tight. I used a star bit and heated the crap out of it
 

·
Registered
2012 Pro R Switchback
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I've had the Polaris version in a 2002 Edge xcsp 700 and I rode it hard and it didn't feel any slower than 2002 700 xcsp with the regular suspension. The only thing i found was getting the skid out the Allen bolts hoding the suspension to the tunnel were a real bugger to get out, they get rounded easy. They really applied the lock tight. I used a star bit and heated the crap out of it
Looking at skid removal and the front allen bolts are tucked to far into the foot well to get an air impact on them. is everyone using a breaker bar? Rear ones will be easy, fronts gonna be a bitch from what i can see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
I ended up drilling a hole in the front suspension tube to hold the shaft in place with a punch. The Alan bolt gets rounded easy so make sure you use the exact size or even a star bit and heat the tube up to break loose the lock tight. Cringe just thinking about how hard it was to get out, let me know how you do good luck,take care
 

·
Registered
2012 Pro R Switchback
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
the allen head is 3/8". almost think i need to drill a 1/2" hold in the belly pan by the foot well so i can shove an impact extension in there and use my impact. impact is nice as it spins it so fast you don't have to worry about it sticking and the other side will come out with ease as well. If i can find a 1/2" full grommet like the place where the clutch removal hole is i may do that.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
262 Posts
In my manual it's 45 lb/ft. Also, if you can't get one cap screw to loosen, put a nut and flat washer on the opposite side cap screw, thread into torque arm and then use the nut as a jam nut; tighten it up against the tunnel and hit the other cap screw w/ an impact or if you prefer a 1/2" drive ratchet.
I have an Air Assault mid-shock on my M-20 and love it. Considering putting a set on my wife's sled.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top