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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just picked up a 2004 600 Classic with M10 suspension. Going through this thing as it will be my back up sled and/or if the boy wants to come with me on a small ride. 6200 miles, I'm third owner.

I need to set this suspension up for about a 100-120lb rider. I've emailed FAST for a manual, but they've never replied. Not sure how i'm going to get this skid out as it takes up a ton of room in there, but i'll figure it out i guess.

Anyone have one of these suspensions and what should i look for and do?
 

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Is it a real M-10 or a Polaris version? my guess is it's probably a Polaris version in that model year. Setup up is very important on a M-10 for rider weight. The Poo version is a bit watered down for adjustments compared to a real Teamfast M-10 What exactly do you need to know?
 

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That's a Karpik brothers design.You have plenty of time before next season to have the shocks properly rebuilt and set it up. If your not going to replace the springs, set it on the lowest setting. Most likely that will be to stiff for a 100- 120# rider
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is it a real M-10 or a Polaris version? my guess is it's probably a Polaris version in that model year. Setup up is very important on a M-10 for rider weight. The Poo version is a bit watered down for adjustments compared to a real Teamfast M-10 What exactly do you need to know?
first off i need to get that skid out. I hear the best way is to undo the top shock bolts and the limiter strap. One idler wheel bearing blew out and that means that the other ones have never been done either. Hyfax is shot as well. Once out will get my shock guy to rebuild. Is the rear shock adjustable? I don't see a dial on the reservoir like i have on my Pro R adjustable shocks.

The boy complained about the ride on his 1998 Skidoo Formula 500 so i figured i'd pick this up and the suspension would be much better. I've had edge sleds and those are easy enough to adjust, but this looks to have more features.
 

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Collapse the shocks to make it easier. You should be able to adjust the rear shock adjusters back to the last hash mark on the side of the rail. You can also loosen the front shock just enough to hold the spring in place. Actually adjusting of the rear shock is close to impossible. Need big spanner wrench’s to break the components free. I always ran my rear chock with about 1/4”tight at the top of the spring collar...About 1/4” of threads showing for preload.
I am fairly sure you have the Fast Version since your sled is the edge chassis. Should have a reservoir attached to the rail that runs a hose to the bottom of the shock, but maybe not is someone swiped it off and put a non-res back in. Doesn’t matter much either way.
I have a older metric 121, 144” complete and a 144” airwave, all doing nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Collapse the shocks to make it easier. You should be able to adjust the rear shock adjusters back to the last hash mark on the side of the rail. You can also loosen the front shock just enough to hold the spring in place. Actually adjusting of the rear shock is close to impossible. Need big spanner wrench’s to break the components free. I always ran my rear chock with about 1/4”tight at the top of the spring collar...About 1/4” of threads showing for preload.
I am fairly sure you have the Fast Version since your sled is the edge chassis. Should have a reservoir attached to the rail that runs a hose to the bottom of the shock, but maybe not is someone swiped it off and put a non-res back in. Doesn’t matter much either way.
I have a older metric 121, 144” complete and a 144” airwave, all doing nothing.
so basically undo the bolts at the top of the shocks and let it sag down so i can get the skid out. It does have the reservoir. Not sure what it does as it seems to not be adjustable
 

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The M10 is not known to be fast or have good 'weight transfer' for traction. I've played with my 2003 classic 600 for 3+ years and it is still very squirrelly in the rear when I'm cruising and punch it (no studs). The M10 is difficult to tune because it is not forgiving - there is a very narrow window of adjuaent where it works great (with rusted collars on the rear shock, it definitely doesn't help either). It can be hard to get to that sweet spot.

I also had the front torque arm crack all the way through that was mentioned. Welded it up with some reinforcing angle and haven't had an issue.

There's no doubt it's a comfortable suspension, but the M10 doesn't meet my desire for excellent performance.
 

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Best ride quality out of a M-10 is achieved with a good setup. A poorly set up M-10 will not give you the well know M-10 magic carpet ride. Best starting point for your son at 110 lbs is is as follows:
1 Always run your FRA (rear shock lower adjustment on rail) as far back as possible laying the shock down at a flatter angle.
2. Always run more spring preload and as little FRA as possible. Cranking up the FRA even 1/4" too much will always result in a stiff pogo stick ride. For his weight start with about 9/16"-5/8" spring preload (threads showing above collar) on the rear shock.
3.The overload spring is the 3rd adjustment in the rear shock and should be set to help resist a hard bottom at the very end of the rear arm travel.
4 Run the light 80lb spring on the front arm just snug with the limiter full out.
5. Very important! run the track as loose as possible 2" free hang or just before you ratchet. A tight track on a M-10 will bind the suspension and result in a poor ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
TeamFast will help you. Just call and speak to Bridgette. You may not need the lightweight spring if you set the FRA all the way back it will get really soft...
okay, i noticed it wasn't set all the way to the back. i have to pull the skid to change the sliders, replace wheel bearings as well as get the shocks rebuilt so i'll tweak it before i put it back in.

seems strange, but actually looking forward to trying this skid out. I know it won't be like my Pro R, but it looks like an interesting skid to say the least.

some research also pulled up this thread which has also been helpful

AS WELL, does anyone know the torque spec to the tunnel bolts for this skid?

 

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okay, i noticed it wasn't set all the way to the back. i have to pull the skid to change the sliders, replace wheel bearings as well as get the shocks rebuilt so i'll tweak it before i put it back in.

seems strange, but actually looking forward to trying this skid out. I know it won't be like my Pro R, but it looks like an interesting skid to say the least.

some research also pulled up this thread which has also been helpful

AS WELL, does anyone know the torque spec to the tunnel bolts for this skid?

Its not strange. M-10s are very good riding skids even by today's standards. That's not bad considering Karpik brought them out to market around 1992. Most important is correct set up for the rider. You will actually feel this rear skid fully use its travel under you...
 

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I've had really good service from Brian and Brigette. I have two M-10's and an M-20.
My wife is 150 and I can only get about 3-1/2" FRA.
 
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