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8100-8200 is max for an uncalibrated tach. Most Tachometers from these were ~200 rpm's fast. I generally shoot for 8000 for what I am doing but then I am running a 2" paddle 144 and I'm geared down. Anyone have an almond blue spring laying around that is fresh. I seem to be missing my spring collection and the almond blue works real good for my setup....... is 92mph in 1000ft on gps pretty good for a 2x144" stock 800?
 

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How bad does a m10 rob performance any one know? I understand its great for the bumps..But how much bottom end/ top end is it robbing me of?
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
2002 slp dyno report

Are these 800 supposed to be running at 8000-8100 or a little higher like 8250-8350?
7800-7900 R.P.M. is peak H.P. according to the SLP dyno report.

I generally clutch for 100 - 200 R.P.M. higher than what the dyno says.

7900- 8000 R.P.M. is where you want to be at.
 

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I can get about 100 mph on the speedo with the M10.

64's, 140-330 spring
54-36 Progressive, silver/blue/3rd hole.
8000 r's.

D
 

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hey i rebuilding my secondary clutch and i bought the r-49 helix and buttons and new blue spring but im not sure wut hole to put it in? what do u guys suggest?
 

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I think Kraven is the only guy that would recommend that secondary set-up so maybe PM him.Theres a lot better secondary set-ups than that.R-49 is not nearly agressive enuff.
Steve
 

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Something like a 50/36 progressive maybe a PR 52-40/36 dalton ,HSP 38x ,with say a blue/orange polaris spring hole #2 or #3.All of these would be better choice IMHO.Maybe Kraven didn't try any of these IDK????
Steve
 

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Something like a 50/36 progressive maybe a PR 52-40/36 dalton ,HSP 38x ,with say a blue/orange polaris spring hole #2 or #3.All of these would be better choice IMHO.Maybe Kraven didn't try any of these IDK????
Steve

I agree with HSR... I use the slp 52/36 w/polaris silver/blue in hole#3. I find it to be a very good all round setup, from towing, to breaking trail, and drag racing friends. I also have team clutches (tss98 & tied), the tied is better on bottom and slightly better off trail, but this button setup is a better setup all round, I always go back to the button.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Something like a 50/36 progressive maybe a PR 52-40/36 dalton ,HSP 38x ,with say a blue/orange polaris spring hole #2 or #3.All of these would be better choice IMHO.Maybe Kraven didn't try any of these IDK????
Steve
Maybe HSR never ran against my "old" 800.............................................
 

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My 700 pulls more clutching than that gives 2010 800 ptek fits.Look Kraven I'm not saying it isn't a decent set up but to call it the best bang for the buck well thats where I disagree.There is a lot better set-ups I've found through my own testing that would be a better set up than that, thats all.I've had PM's asking why you alone say this is the best thats why I posted.Not trying to start a pissing match just good ole clutching discussion.The r-49 is short duration 52* then straight 34* now I feel an 800 running only 66's can pull more degrees through the shift than that.
Steve
 

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i have a 2001 polaris 800 with slp twins and a 136 track extension with a 1.25 ripsaw. have all stock to my knowledge for gearing and clutching. feel i can get more out of it. what would be a good recommendation for springs, weights, helix, gears exc..
 

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My 700 pulls more clutching than that gives 2010 800 ptek fits.Look Kraven I'm not saying it isn't a decent set up but to call it the best bang for the buck well thats where I disagree.There is a lot better set-ups I've found through my own testing that would be a better set up than that, thats all.I've had PM's asking why you alone say this is the best thats why I posted.Not trying to start a pissing match just good ole clutching discussion.The r-49 is short duration 52* then straight 34* now I feel an 800 running only 66's can pull more degrees through the shift than that.
Steve
I put a set of 10-60's in my piped Ultra, w/ 165-310 and an R-32 w/ pol blue driven and 23:41 gearing. R-32 is the same deal as the R-49, only short on the 50 and long on the 34. This set-up would really accelerate hard with the heavy weights and light helix. May possibly be one of the better set-ups I've tried. However overall...at part throttle cruising, it was lazy on the backshift, to the point of being annoying. I ended up backing off on the weights to 10-56's and using an SLP 46-36...as the trail ridden sled it was intended to be, this ends up being the most enjoyable set-up I have used in it.:bc2:
 

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I ran 66g lightning weights with a black/white spring with good success, 110 on ice with gps. Switched between LRM, PSI, CPI and SLP twin pipes, low comp head for easier revs, the best I got with 480 jets was 116 on ice.
 

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My 700 pulls more clutching than that gives 2010 800 ptek fits.Look Kraven I'm not saying it isn't a decent set up but to call it the best bang for the buck well thats where I disagree.There is a lot better set-ups I've found through my own testing that would be a better set up than that, thats all.I've had PM's asking why you alone say this is the best thats why I posted.Not trying to start a pissing match just good ole clutching discussion.The r-49 is short duration 52* then straight 34* now I feel an 800 running only 66's can pull more degrees through the shift than that.
Steve
So, I have the stock R11(45-36) and an SLP 52-36 helix. Clutch had R11 with solid blue spring, would the 52-36 with silver/blue in #3 hole work better. The 03' XC 800 should be able to pull that with 10-66 and almond/red in primary?
 

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Which SLP series/cut is it? (the first number stamped on the helix)

I ran a 40-series full progressive 50-36 in my 02, along with some heavier weights, and found it slightly sluggish in the setup I had. I swapped to a same cut 50-34 which worked better for what I wanted.
I also like slightly stiffer springs than the silver/blue with these helixes. Either EPI orange or Polaris blue orange. I'd think the Dalton springs should work good too
And hole #3. Holes are not placed quite the same as on a polaris helix
 

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Which SLP series/cut is it? (the first number stamped on the helix)

I ran a 40-series full progressive 50-36 in my 02, along with some heavier weights, and found it slightly sluggish in the setup I had. I swapped to a same cut 50-34 which worked better for what I wanted.
I also like slightly stiffer springs than the silver/blue with these helixes. Either EPI orange or Polaris blue orange. I'd think the Dalton springs should work good too
And hole #3. Holes are not placed quite the same as on a polaris helix
No, has no series number on it, just 52/36, so must be a regular 52/36 helix?
 

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hard to say , one way to compare the cut to the stock helix is to wrap a piece of paper around the helix, then trace the ramp with a pencil
 
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